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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm having consistent light primer strikes with my 9422 coon&hound edition averaging 3-5 light strikes per magazine, almost all of the light strikes will fire on the second strike by manually cocking the hammer. I've noticed that when the bolt is closed, I could manually push the entire bolt slide and the breech bolt forward for about 1mm with or without a round chambered, and when the bolt was pushed forward, there was zero light strike. Here's a short video demonstrating this issue:


What I have learned sor far:
1. this is not an ammo issue, it happens with all the ammo I have.
2. it is not because of dirty chamber, I've cleaned the firearm throughly a couples times now.
3. it is not the firing pin and the main hammer spring, I swapped with new parts and the problem is still there.
4. it is not a lever manipulation error or operator error, the lever was 100% fully closed/engaged when misfire happened.

Is this a headspace issue? and if yes, how can I fix it? I am super frustrated now and any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks!
 

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"I could manually push the entire bolt slide and the breech bolt forward for about 1mm with or without a round chambered,"

I'm a little confused, are you pushing the bolt forward by squeezing the lever up against the stock?

I think what you may dealing with, is the"Winchester" lever safety, aka, lever plunger. If your lever is not squeezed enough it won't fire. Marlin has the same type lever safety,... it prevents a cartridge from firing out of battery,... which is a good thing, a VERY GOOD THING!

If you are not moving your bolt forward by squeezing the lever, and you can move your bolt with the lever held tight up against the stock,... then, I have no idea what is going on.
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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Just from your description it sounds like something is worn just a bit?

Maybe?

RJ
 
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After re-reading,...

"and when the bolt was pushed forward, there was zero light strike."

..., this tells me, you are not operating the lever properly when you get a misfire.

When you have the lever tight against the stock, or, as you put it, THE BOLT PUSHED FORWARD, you have no misfires,... exactly how the weapon is designed to operate.

I believe, what we have here, is a simple case of operator error.

You're not alone, many first time lever gun owners find the lever safety plunger a bit of an irritating challenge. A plunger can be tuned, to be more easy to work with, but, I obviously don't know about your's, specifically.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
"I could manually push the entire bolt slide and the breech bolt forward for about 1mm with or without a round chambered,"

I'm a little confused, are you pushing the bolt forward by squeezing the lever up against the stock?

I think what you may dealing with, is the"Winchester" lever safety, aka, lever plunger. If your lever is not squeezed enough it won't fire. Marlin has the same type lever safety,... it prevents a cartridge from firing out of battery,... which is a good thing, a VERY GOOD THING!

If you are not moving your bolt forward by squeezing the lever, and you can move your bolt with the lever held tight up against the stock,... then, I have no idea what is going on.
This is what I meant:

The lever is fully closed, the bolt is in the locking recess, I could push the back of the bolt slide forward by about 1mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
After re-reading,...

"and when the bolt was pushed forward, there was zero light strike."

..., this tells me, you are not operating the lever properly when you get a misfire.

When you have the lever tight against the stock, or, as you put it, THE BOLT PUSHED FORWARD, you have no misfires,... exactly how the weapon is designed to operate.

I believe, what we have here, is a simple case of operator error.

You're not alone, many first time lever gun owners find the lever safety plunger a bit of a challenge. A plunger can be tuned, to be more easy to work with, but, I obviously don't know about your's, specifically.
I can assure you there is no operator error in this case, the lever was fully closed. Also in my first video, the lever was not in the gun. I was pushing at the rear of the bolt slide, which in turn pushes on the breech bolt assembly in its locking position. There is about a 1mm (maybe slightly less) gap between the bolt face and the rear of the cartridge in the chamber.
 

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You write above, that when you push the bolt forward, you don't get any misfires.

How did you push the bolt forward to accomplish "zero light strikes"?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You write above, that when you push the bolt forward, you don't get any misfires.

How did you push the bolt forward to accomplish "zero light strikes"?
The back of the bolt slide is exposed in the receiver, you can simply push on it with your thumb (like I did in the 2nd video). While holding the bolt forward with the thumb, pull the trigger and there was no light strikes, that's what led me to believe that 1mm gap was the problem causing the light strikes. Note the lever was 100% closed and the bolt is fully seated in the locking recess, but there is still that 1mm gap between the bolt face and the cartridge.

Basically when firing, the firing pin hit the back of the cartridge, insdead of solidly striking the primer, it lost some energy pushing the cartridge forward for that 1mm and then strikes the primer with less energy, therefore causing light strikes.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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How well used is this gun? Have you taken the bolt apart and cleaned it well? Or at least hosed it out with some brake cleaner to make sure there's no crud hiding in it?

Does the bolt go all the way forward if you briskly shut the lever?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How well used is this gun? Have you taken the bolt apart and cleaned it well? Or at least hosed it out with some brake cleaner to make sure there's no crud hiding in it?

Does the bolt go all the way forward if you briskly shut the lever?
I have not completely disassemble the breech bolt assembly, only the firing pin. The bolt looks practically new, so does the rest of the rifle. No matter how I operate the lever, the bolt will always leave that 1mm gap before fully closes. I feels like it's under some tension, when I pushed it with my thumb, it will go all the way, and when I release the pressure, it will spring back. I did look at it more closely and it seems like the extractor was under tension when I manually pushes the bolt in.
 

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Hi, I'm having consistent light primer strikes with my 9422 coon&hound edition averaging 3-5 light strikes per magazine, almost all of the light strikes will fire on the second strike by manually cocking the hammer. I've noticed that when the bolt is closed, I could manually push the entire bolt slide and the breech bolt forward for about 1mm with or without a round chambered, and when the bolt was pushed forward, there was zero light strike. Here's a short video demonstrating this issue:


What I have learned sor far:
1. this is not an ammo issue, it happens with all the ammo I have.
2. it is not because of dirty chamber, I've cleaned the firearm throughly a couples times now.
3. it is not the firing pin and the main hammer spring, I swapped with new parts and the problem is still there.
4. it is not a lever manipulation error or operator error, the lever was 100% fully closed/engaged when misfire happened.

Is this a headspace issue? and if yes, how can I fix it? I am super frustrated now and any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks!
Based on what you have posted I believe you have a head space issue and my guess is that this is because the barrel was not properly fitted into the receiver. Could be the locking mechanism between the bolt and receiver but that is a more distant second guess to me. That is probably why the original owner sold the rifle. The question now is who services these rifles, a call to Winchester Cust Service may point you in the right direction.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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To me it seems like the lever is just not pushing the bolt forward enough. I don't have a 9422 to look at, so not sure how it locks up.
 

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OK. thanks for the explanation.

To me, it boils down to either the bolt is worn where it contacts the lever (which you have excluded), or the lever at the point of contact with the bolt is worn (which you have also excluded),... and lastly, I come back to the plunger/lever safety.

On my marlin lever gun,...after the plunger safety is activated/pressed in by the lever being snugged up against it, and the stock,... the bolt is then allowed to move the last few increments (your's may be the 1 mm you have posted-I am not familiar with Winchesters) into battery. Allowing ignition without light strikes, and, as a safety feature to prevent firing out of battery.

Please look a little closer at the plunger. It may just need a little oil to get it to depress fully. If you are lucky, it could be the most simple solution, I would exclude the plunger before going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK. thanks for the explanation.

To me, it boils down to either the bolt is worn where it contacts the lever (which you have excluded), or the lever at the point of contact with the bolt is worn (which you have also excluded),... and lastly, I come back to the plunger/lever safety.

On my marlin lever gun,...after the plunger safety is activated/pressed in by the lever being snugged up against it, and the stock,... the bolt is then allowed to move the last few increments (your's may be the 1 mm you have posted-I am not familiar with Winchesters) into battery. Allowing ignition without light strikes, and, as a safety feature to prevent firing out of battery.

Please look a little closer at the plunger. It may just need a little oil to get it to depress fully. If you are lucky, it could be the most simple solution, I would exclude the plunger before going on.
I don't think the 9422 has a plunger lever safety, the lever is just touching solid metal when in closed position. I'm not 100% sure whether or not there's another lever safety inside the trigger conrol group, I'll have to do a bit more research. The Winchester 9422 has a 2 part bolt system, a "breech bolt assembly" housing the firing pin, extractor, ejector etc. and a "bolt slide" behind the breech bolt assembly interacting with the lever via a what's called "finger lever" on the firing control group (I'm strickly using Winchester's terminologies here). I can bend the "finger lever" so when the lever is closed, the finger lever pushes harder on the bolt assembly forcing it to close more, but I'm not sure if that's the right way to correct it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
MikeG, the Winchester 9422 has a protruding lug at the top of the breech bolt assembly, when action is closed, the breech bolt gets "lifted" upward and the lug sits inside a recessed area inside the receiver to lock it in place. My rifle has no issue in lifting the bolt and locking the action in the recessed area. It's just that after all that, I could still push the bolt forward by about 1mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Based on what you have posted I believe you have a head space issue and my guess is that this is because the barrel was not properly fitted into the receiver. Could be the locking mechanism between the bolt and receiver but that is a more distant second guess to me. That is probably why the original owner sold the rifle. The question now is who services these rifles, a call to Winchester Cust Service may point you in the right direction.
This is my guess so far, I'm not sure if the barrel can be turned further into the receiver easily, I called Winchester, they no longer service the 9422 because it is an obsolete model, they said the 9422 and some other obsolete models are now serviced at Midwest Gun Works. I called them as well, they said I need to pay the 2 way shipping plus whatever repair cost is after they identify the problem.

Update: it appears the 9422 barrel is pressed and pinned, not threaded. I'm not sure how you adjust the headspace from the barrel in this situation. Sounds like too big of a job already :(.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Remeasured the gap and it's around 0.5-0.6mm, so I've decided to lengthen the firing pin. So far I've made it 0.2mm longer, will test at the range and report back.
 

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What you have is a worn or misshapen disconnector or the part that drives the disconnector. I've never seen one so don't know for sure, but whatever part is supposed to be closing the bolt completely is not working.
Lengthening the FP will likely expose your eyes to hot brass fragments. There is a reason the gun doesn't fire when it's out of battery!! Don't defeat safeties, please!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What you have is a worn or misshapen disconnector or the part that drives the disconnector. I've never seen one so don't know for sure, but whatever part is supposed to be closing the bolt completely is not working.
Lengthening the FP will likely expose your eyes to hot brass fragments. There is a reason the gun doesn't fire when it's out of battery!! Don't defeat safeties, please!
Thanks for the reply! Can you point out where the disconnector is on a Winchester 9422?

The Winchester 9422's bolt locks into the receiver with a very substantially sized locking lug. So far the gun functions in terms of driving the locking lug into the locking recess in the receiver. I have fired the gun in its current state for a few handred rounds and have seen no blown or ruptured cases, the spent casing all looked fine. Assuming the rim thickness is 0.043", then my headspace is currently at round 0.063" when bolt is locked in place. So is 0.02" of added headspace enough to make the gun dangerous? and do we know for certain that this is categorized as "out of battery"?

One potential cause for the excessive headspace (based on what I've learned so far) is that the lock lug on the bolt was machined out of spec, more specifically, too much material was removed off the back of the locking lug, therefore reducing the overall length from the locking lug to the bolt face. I wish I can get another 9422 and swap the bolt to see if that fixes my issue.
 
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