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When I use my Hornady LnL AP press to load 223, I use a Full Length die. I've been using the RCBS lube that came with my Rockchuker kit a bunch of years ago. The brass usually ends up looking terrible even if I try wiping it down with damp paper towels. Anybody have any suggestions or do I just have to live with it?
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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Is it the water soluble lube or the old sticky stuff. I used alcohol on a rag to get rid of the old stuff, but the water based lube wipes right off with a paper or other towel.

RJ
 
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"Looks terrible"? Is the problem left over lube? Or is there something else "wrong" with the lubed, sized cases? Many reloaders tumble after sizing to remove excess or left over lube. I use a home product for sizing lube; Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream. It works exceptionally well, it is easy to use, is good on the hands/skin. It wipes off easily, and is found most places that sell shoe polish. And I like a very thin residual film it leave on my brass after wiping w/towel (not even enough to feel slick) as it helps reduce tarnish. I have some handloads, cases sized with MOBC lube that are still somewhat shiny after 10 years, stored in sandwich bags...
 

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If the lube is in a bottle, it's water soluable, so I just wash the sized brass in a coffee tub with hot water and a bit of dawn soap, swirl the brass around for a few minutes, drain off most of the water, leaving some suds, and repeat a couple times, then a final rinse in a different coffee tub and dry in the dehydrator. Somewhat of a pita, but never had any issues doing this way.
 

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I have a bottle of RCBS case lube 2. Been working great for 40 years
 

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I use the Hornady Unique lube on the smaller jobs, and have used rubbing alcohol on an old clean rag to remove the lube but have the occasional bit of lube left in the neck. I discover this when loading the powder charge. :(
 

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JB,

Can you elaborate on looking "terrible" or show a photo?
 

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1 part liquid lanolin to 10 parts RED BOTTLE ISO HEAT fuel system water remover and injector cleaner. (High % isopropyl alcohol) Mix that in a spray bottle, shake before using. Been using that for 12-14 years now...never looked back at all the commercially sold stuff. That bottle and a ziploc bag is all you need for perfect case sizing. Shake and bake basically. ;)
 

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Lee Case Lube , and if you want a spray on , take a 6 or 8 ounce spray bottle , fill 3/4 way with denatured alcohol and dissolve as much Lee Case Lube into the alcohol as it will dissolve (if too lumpy strain it ) you spray on the lube , let dry and then resize ... the remaining dry film of lube wipes right off and doesn't discolor or stain brass .
You can apply it from the tube with your fingers but the spray and let dry application is the way to do a number of cases . But let the applied film dry before sizing .
Lee Case Lube is one of their better products .
Gary
 

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When I use my Hornady LnL AP press to load 223, I use a Full Length die. I've been using the RCBS lube that came with my Rockchuker kit a bunch of years ago. The brass usually ends up looking terrible even if I try wiping it down with damp paper towels. Anybody have any suggestions or do I just have to live with it?
I don't know what you mean by "looking terrible", but unless you used too much lube and ended up hydraulically puckering the shoulder of the cases, I've never had any issue with getting RCBS case lube removed from sized brass. I don't think the RCBS case lube is water soluble, so I'd just stick to using dry media. I prefer using 3" square, dry, cotton shotgun cleaning patches to wipe down cases over paper towels. I still use RCBS case lube on occasion, but have mainly switched to cleaning cases with patches soaked with Hoppe's #9, leaving them 'wet', and using the Hoppe's film (which contains kerosene) as the sizing lube. I then wipe off the Hoppe's after sizing.
 

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I think the "looking terrible" comment is a bit of a snag for most.

If you want the brass to look like new, the "Dawn Approach" will remove RCBS case lube quickly, (actually, so will hot water), but it will not remove any minor staining. To come out shiny like new, add a bit of white vinegar to the hot water, and let it sit for a few minutes. Then rinse thoroughly with hot water to remove the detergent and vinegar. If you smell any vinegar, more hot water. I put my brass in the plastic holders that come home with factory handgun ammo, case mouth down, and set the brass on a register this time of year, or in a plastic bin outdoors in the sun in the summer. Swiffer plastic bins work well for this. But you want the brass to be hot and dry before storage. It will stay shiny and new if stored in a Zip Lock bag for a long time.

There are all sorts of fan clubs for various lube products, and even more opinions on how clean reloading brass should be. My thought is brass comes home shiny from the factory, and clean brass has properties that are different than brass with lube on the surface, or lots of carbon fouling. But it's your brass and your loads ;)
 

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I use Imperial sizing wax, resizing over my open tumbler. As each is sized, I just drop it into the tumbler. When done, 45 minutes of tumbling gets them lube-free. I use corncob because it's more absorbent than walnut.
 
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