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Discussion Starter #1
want to know if any one has any reloading info on hornady 165gr interbond. I have a new Tikka T3 varmint heavy barrel. I have shot factory loads to sight in etc and want to start reloading but wanted to know if anyone has reloaded this combo?
Thanks
 

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The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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Google the Hornady reloading site - they'll have all the info you'll need.
 

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You're looking for 165 grains loads for 308 Winchester? Naw, nobody's ever loaded up that combination before. ;)

Here's the thing: If I said to load up 50 grains of H123 under that bullet, cuz it shot like a dream in MY Tikka T3 Varmint, you'd be crazy to just jump to that load in yours. Asking for load recipes online is not as bad as cruising for a date at the family reunion, but it's still not a good idea! Buy the Hornady reloading manual or go online to the bullet/powder company website for the components you hope to use.

Be ye therefore educated and informed, and thus not misled. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey,thanks. I realize that.But I just wanted to find a place to start or avoid. The Hornady manual lists multiple powders to try . Im not sure how you pick one over the other if they are all listed as giving acceptable results ?
cuz
 

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The powders you see listed in a manual are the ones that gave acceptable results. And the powders you don't see...well, you can figure that one out.

But as Jason points out, what might be best in your gun can't come from the manual. Only your gun can tell you that. As a long-time .308 fan, if I were experimenting with a new bullet, I'd start with Rl-15, then 4895. Some folks swear by Varget, and with bullets of 150 grains or more, it might be the one, also.
 

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hey,thanks. I realize that.But I just wanted to find a place to start or avoid. The Hornady manual lists multiple powders to try . Im not sure how you pick one over the other if they are all listed as giving acceptable results ?
cuz
Yes, the manual lists multiple powders that all give acceptable results. Now it's up to you to make a choice on which one to use. Make your selection then load up some cartridges using the starting load along with the exact components and specs listed in the manual. See if you're groups equal or exceed the factory ammunition. If not, increase your load a bit and try again. Repeat until you've found the best group that you can get out of your rifle. Hopefully you'll have found exactly the load that satisfies you. Otherwise, you may wish to repeat the testing with different primers or cartridge specs before moving on to a different powder. Once you've found the powder that best suits your rifle, you may wish to try other primers and eventually different cartridge specs again.

Yes, it's a lot of testing but in the end, you'll know that you've "customized" your ammunition to get the very best out of your rifle. The problem with just asking for a load is that each firearm likes a certain load which can be different from the same identical firearm that came off the assembly line before it. The load you get from someone else may be the best for that person's rifle but may not give the same performance in yours.
 

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The only rule I've ever seen present was the 85% rule in the Precision Shooting Reloading guide. You take a fired case and weigh it together with a bullet. Fill the case with water and set the bullet into it to the normal seating depth (so the crimp cannelure rolled into the bullet is level with the mouth of your case). This squirts water out, so do it carefully. Wipe any excess water off the outside of the case and weigh it and the bullet again. Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight then multiply by 0.85. Now scan through the powder data and see which powders look like they will give you the highest velocity with that charge weight. These will all tend to be good candidate powders as they will give you the highest velocity with a nearly full case.

Frankly, that method works best with stick powders. I would use 90% with spherical propellants, which complicates things a bit. That said, none of the powders Rocky Mentioned were stick powders. Another one I would add for consideration is IMR 4064. It was the powder first used in Federal Gold Medal match ammo before they switched to Reloader 15, and the Navy has gone back to it from RL15 for the Mk316 version of M118 LR that Federal has developed for them. It turned out RL15 was causing over pressure problems in desert temperatures.
 

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If you're just wanting a powder recommendation, without a charge weight, I would give H4895 a look. It won't give you THE highest velocity, but I've been very happy with the accuracy it gives from a 308, using mid-weight bullets. It's also cool because you can load it down to create reduced recoil loads. In some situations, that's downright useful. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks ,all
I will Give A few powder combos a try.I am getting pretty consistant 1" groups with Hornady superformance 165gr Interbond factory loads @ 100yrds.The store I bought the gun from insists that I should expect tighter than that.The guy there seems to know alot about guns and bullets but not so much about relaoding. I have also not been at the shooting bench much.
cuz
 

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Slip of the fingers, nick. You might want to edit your otherwise fine post. None of the powders I mentioned are spherical.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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I'll add to the endorsements of IMR-4064 and Varget. While I don't reload for the .308, they both work just great in the .30-06. Varget meters better.
 

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If we need some sperical powder in this mix try Win 748 and BLC2
 

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Thanks ,all
I will Give A few powder combos a try.I am getting pretty consistant 1" groups with Hornady superformance 165gr Interbond factory loads @ 100yrds.The store I bought the gun from insists that I should expect tighter than that.The guy there seems to know alot about guns and bullets but not so much about relaoding. I have also not been at the shooting bench much.
cuz
The guy who didn't know much about reloading, but insists your Tikka should do better than 1 inch at 100 yards, with FACTORY ammo...well, at least he was honest about not knowing a lot about reloading. :)

For a factory rifle to shoot factory ammo into an inch is good performance. To expect more than that, w/o handloading or shooting a more expensive rifle, is a tad bit optimistic, in my experience. That's not to say your rifle couldn't shoot 1/2" groups at 100 with the right factory ammo, but you ask guys who've been at this a while and they'll tell you it's a lot more likely with good handloads than off-the-shelf stuff.

With that being said, the factory ammo sold today tends to be pretty darn good...even getting MOA performance like you are used to be pretty unusual. For a lot of years, any rifle/ammo combo that would shoot a true 1 inch group was impressive stuff, so don't let some guy behind the counter at your LGS tell you your rifle isn't shooting good enough! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was always happy with 100yrd groups that could fit inside a hockey puck(before).Iam basically a hunter,who likes to shoot at the bech once in a while. Sometimes easy to get caught up in the hype of expecting too much. Part of the reason to reload for me is to save a few bucks and shoot more often.
cuz
 

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I was always happy with 100yrd groups that could fit inside a hockey puck(before).Iam basically a hunter,who likes to shoot at the bech once in a while. Sometimes easy to get caught up in the hype of expecting too much. Part of the reason to reload for me is to save a few bucks and shoot more often.
cuz
I've never known any handloader that saved money by reloading. Price per round goes down drastically but most end up shooting way more. Bottom line there is a couple benefits, it's a great hobby and the accuracy tends to improve.
 

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I have always had great results with IMR4895 with the 165 gr pills.
 
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