Spence,
Evidently I'm from the same school as Tnhunter with these 336's.
I've messed with some larger objective scopes on them over the past 35 years or so, but IMHO, anything over 4x and a 20mm objective is just plain overkill for these guns and the ranges they're intended to be used at. The larger scopes also tend to negate the fast handeling qualities of the 336.
For me, the better Cheek weld I get with a 20mm objective was much more important than unneeded extra magnification of larger scopes which I could never get a good cheek weld with. And I doubt most folks can unless they got a Turkey neck, which I certainly don't.
Regardless of the scope I have mounted on any gun, I want the bottom of my objective as close to the top bbl as I can get it (without touching of course) in order to obtain the best possible cheek weld and accuracy.
To achieve this with the VX-II 1-4x20 on my 336 I went with a set of Burris Super-Low Zee rings and Weaver 1 piece base.
I removed the sights from the gun as I don't have a need for them, but when they were on it I could see the front sight with the scope set at 1x. It wasn't much of a distraction during huting situations, but would pluck my nerves a bit at the range.
As far as the See-Thru mounts go, you will find that most folks that have been around a while don't have much regard for them. Aside from placing the center of the scope way too high above the bore, which will also cause a cheek weld issue along with a larger ojectives, they also tend to be more "flimsey" if you will, than standard height mounts. By flimsey, I mean their added height provides the "extra leverage" that makes them prone to being more easily knocked out if alignment should your scope get banged around a bit. Ask me how I know this


.
Lastly, if using a low power scope in the 1x-2x range there really is no need for open sights (unless as a back up on a remote hunt) as at these powers you can pretty much shoot from the base of your tree on out.
Hope this has been of some help.
YB