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Some guns run better “wet,” while others function better either completely dry or with a dry lube like graphite powder or other slick dust-on lube. Which is better for AR's? Any suggestions? :confused: thanks Fay
 

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Good ARs aren't that finicky. I've used Break Free, Mobil 1, off-brand gun oil, and light grease. All worked fine. I use synthetic grease most of the time since I'll shoot a few rounds or pack the rifle in the woods while raining. If I was shooting 1000's of rounds Id do oil.

Like DWB said different environments call for different stuff.
 

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I have been using Hi Temp, Hi Impact grease on the bolt and bolt carrier group and CLP on the trigger group... It has worked for me but I will say I only shoot around 100 rounds at a time, not sure how it will work under "Heavy" use...
 

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You'll get lots of different opinions.

ARs like to be adequately lubed - not soaking in oil like a 1911, nor liberally greased like an M1 Garand or M14, but lightly oiled on all the shiny spots. That is pretty much the key - if it's shiny it needs some oil on it.

Break Free/CLP works fine, so does regular gun oil, LSA weapons oil, etc.

Oiling an AR in an environment with lots of fine dust is a trade-off as the oil attracts dust which can then cause problems. On the other hand, if you run it dry with no lube at all, the dust that does get in will cause problems even faster. The key there is to ensue you're adequately oiling the shiny spots, and not slathering it on the entire bolt and bolt carrier assemblies.

The other key to happiness is to keep your AR-15 clean. If you find yourself with a spare minute or so in the field, clear the weapon, pull the rear pin, swing open the upper, remove the bolt carrier group, and wipe any dust and dirt off it, as well as from inside the upper receiver. Re-lube the shiny spots, and put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lube for AR

Thanks guys, I have seen the CLP at Wal Mart. I will give it a try. Also think I will use grease on anything that "shines". tight groups - Fay
 

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For wet lubes, the main thing to remember is Oil on parts that rOtate, and grease to make things that Slide Slicker... Over-doing any lube is about as bad as no lube at all - - moderation is the key.
 

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Some guns run better “wet,” while others function better either completely dry or with a dry lube like graphite powder or other slick dust-on lube. Which is better for AR's? Any suggestions? :confused: thanks Fay
I use LSA military surplus oil.
 

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Some guys who worked on my 24" target AR a number of years ago used and recommended Eezox. It's excellent stuff...

http://www.eezox.info/
 

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I use full synthetic transmission fluid for yrs.
I read about using autotrans fluid a number of years ago. Can't remember if the article referenced fully-synthetic fluid or not. I tried a spot of the common Type F stuff; found it had a funny odor that I just didn't like. It may have even offered-up a puff of smoke as the bolt operated.
 

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Automatic Tranny fluid works well and is a excellent lubricant and you can also use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. I have used 0W20;, 5W20, 5W30 and 10W30.

Mercon Dexron Tranny fluid is one of the main ingredients in Ed's Red which is 1/3rd Mercon Dexron, 1/3rd K1 Kerosene (I have also used Off Road Diesel) and 1/3rd Mineral Spirits. It is also excellent on fire ant mounds. Kick the mound, get them irritated and spray Ed's Red on them and 30 minutes later kick it again and you will only see a couple.

One thing to look at, when you put such in the bolt gas ports, take care to note if there is any change in carbon deposits. My experience with Mobil 1 is it keeps the carbon softer and easier to clean. In Garands I store them muzzle down and put about six drops of Mobil 1 on the op rod and let it flow downwards into Gas Cylinder and I was able to literally wipe the carbon off with a paper towel after 250 rounds.
 

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My ARs always get CLP/Breakfree.
What's the procedure? Should I just clean the BCG and try to get into the lock-up area and clean them, then hose everything down with CLP and BreakFree? I've never used much lubrication; I don't want my rifle making a mess on the floor like would a Harley. I just apply oil or trans fluid by fingertip to the shiny "rail" areas on the bolt carrier, and put a little inside on the raised ring around the bolt itself. Then I work the bolt back and forth in the carrier a few times. Is that protocol sufficient for adequate lubing?
 

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What's the procedure? Should I just clean the BCG and try to get into the lock-up area and clean them, then hose everything down with CLP and BreakFree? I've never used much lubrication; I don't want my rifle making a mess on the floor like would a Harley. I just apply oil or trans fluid by fingertip to the shiny "rail" areas on the bolt carrier, and put a little inside on the raised ring around the bolt itself. Then I work the bolt back and forth in the carrier a few times. Is that protocol sufficient for adequate lubing?
Correct, just a lube over the bolt and bolt carrier on the outside. Just a few drops onto the cam pin holding the bolt inside the BCG. Only time I give it a real good spray if I'm on the range getting ready to fire through a case of 1680 rds for training.








CD
 

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LSA was discontinued in the 80s if I remember correctly and was an excellent lube. The reason it was discontinued was one of the vendors that made one of the components went out of business thus the formula on the Army Drawings was not reproducible.

Fortunately they probably made a hundred million gallons of it and it can still be found but when it is gone that is the end. So any way you can find it, grab it and store it in.

Note it is only good to a little below zero F. After that you have to use LAW which will take you to minus 65F.



Breakfree was tested on the M16A1E1 Test at Aberdeen Proving Ground and at minus 65 all we got was sluggish clicks and a warning was issued to not use it in really cold applications. We also tried it on handguns with same results. NOTE: The M16A1E1 was the enhanced design put forward by the US Marine Corps incorporating heavier barrel,better sights, better buttstock material, interchangeable handguards, three shot burst etc. It was then reclassified as M16A2 and adopted as such in Sep 82 via Msg P241412Z from Commandant USMC indicating it would be re designated as M16A2.

The Army then adopted it with same designation.

That testing also revealed barrel life could in effect be doubled by the loading of a different propellant as was loaded by FN. In the original test at the 4800 round dispersion firing the barrels averaged right at 7 MOA. At 6000 rounds they could not be kept on a target board 8 feet wide and 12 feet high until the range was reduced to 600 meters and they covered the whole board then as they were well above 7.2" which was the rejection criteria.

A retest was conducted with same ammo loaded by LC with FN bullets loaded into them with same results and genuine SS109 was obtained and the rifles utilizing that ammo was right at rejection at 12,000 rounds. Thusly the barrel life was doubled by utilizing a different propellant.

Also part of that testing included shooting them in a totally dry condition and I believe they were fired 600 rounds totally dry with no problems.
 

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What Model52 said... "key to happiness is to keep your AR-15 clean"

The one way AK types surpass ARs. AKs don't care if they ever get cleaned, ARs are very temperamental about dirt.
 
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