I should add that a load that sticks in a cylinder needs to be backed down 5% below the level where the sticking starts to occur. It is too hot for that cylinder. They stick because the steel in the cylinder is stretching beyond the elastic limit of the brass expanding under it, so when it snaps back to shape it captures the less elastic brass. So, you are using the cylinder steel as a spring, except it doesn't have a spring temper, and working it out and in like that will fatigue and eventually weaken it, same as bending any piece of metal back and forth a lot will do. If you need a load that hot, for safety's sake and the long-term health of your weapon, get a heavier gun.
Lee mold cavities are cut by CNC lathe, rather than by closing two mold block halves simultaneously inward on a cherry cutter the way most molds are made. So the cavities are perfectly round. You may need to deburr them at the edges, but they are not oval. Most casting problems with them come from failure to clean the last traces of cutting lube off the new mold before casting.
When I switched to the Lee tumble lube 148 grain wadcutter, I did it when I found a 6-cavity mold on clearance at a gun show. I was surprised to find it cut group size out of my K-38 in half as compared to Federal match ammo and bevel base swaged and cast wadcutters I had tried. And that was while mixing the bullets from the different cavities up. I've been buying the 6-cavity molds ever since. They are excellent molds. The sprue shearing handle on these big molds starts the sprue cut and avoids banging with a stick.
If, for some reason, you found them too wide to fit your gun as-cast, the TL bullets can still be run through a Lee sizing die with the lube on them. I would stay with as-cast if you can. It keeps the bullet surface harder and produces significantly less tendency to lead in my revolvers.
Rather than buy 4 ounce bottles of Lee Liquid Alox at $4.50 a pop, you can buy a whole quart of White Label Xlox, which is the same thing, for $10.70 on line.
