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lyman # 45 lube sizer press

9969 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  unclenick
I just got an old Lyman # 45 Lube and Sizer Press.
Does any one have the break down parts list on this.
Does anyone have one ?
Is there suppose to be a nut when you take the cap off
of the lube cylinder some where inside.
I do not understand how turning the top hex rod can put
pressure on the lube unless the threads on the rod work like
a screw augar?
I need some in put here please.
I heated the lube tube and got all the old thick **** out.
Does the rod come out?
Does the lube tube come off ?
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Welcome to the forum. Rules are to join in and have fun and play nicely with the rest of us kids.

I don't have that unit, but my RCBS is very similar and it has a round part with O-rings with a female thread in it that pushes down on the lube stick like a thin piston. Sounds like your analogous part is missing.

I would start by contacting Lyman for a spare parts drawing, so you can verify what is missing? If the same part in the 450 and 4500 aren't identical, it wouldn't be hard to make on a lathe. Perhaps your local vocational school likes to have its students take on that sort of project? But, since lube sticks haven't changed size ever, I expect the same part fits the newer and older units.
Try not to take the rod out and it isn't necessary. There is supposed to be a threaded disk, with an O ring that contacts the wall of the lube reservoir. The O ring holds the ring in place, by friction, and prevents it turning. Therefore, when you turn the rod, it forces the disk down on the lube.
In the past Lyman customer service was able to help with identifying and selling me the spare parts.
on top of the lube tube you should have a cap that is no more than a loose fit, remove it, the threaded shaft is installed through the bottom and is held in place with the piston, to remove the piston rotate the feed rod clock wise, instead if the rod threading in, the piston backs out. the piston is a finger locking split ring, something like a dry seal. after the piston is removed the feed screw can be pushed out the button, again the feed screw is similar to a headed feed screw held in by a counter sink hole in the outside bottom of the well and the piston.

F. Guffey
the threader rod is threaded through the piston. it is like steering with a compound gear box, turning the rod clock wise would thread the rod in, because the rod neither goes up or down the nut (seal) moves up.

When the rod is rotated counter clock wise instead of the rod backing out (raising) the nut (seal) lowers and puts pressure on the lube.

F. Guffey
"I do not understand how turning the top hex rod can put
pressure on the lube unless the threads on the rod work like
a screw auger?"

"Does the rod come out?"

Yes, just push it out the bottom

"Does the lube tube come off ?"

Yes, I don't

The lube travels through a hole drilled through the press, access can be gained when the set screw and bullet sizer is removed, with a wire, clean the galley then clean the grove that surrounds the bullet sizer die.

Life is easier when long fiber grease is not used.

F. Guffey
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He got this unit used, and it sounds like the piston disc is missing. I think that's why he said he couldn't see what applied the pressure? All he's got is the threaded rod. I suppose it might be possible the piston disc is pushed all the way to the bottom and came off the threaded rod, though? Perhaps a flashlight is in order?
ugotit33, again the only thing that holds the threaded rod in place is the piston/disc, if the rod can not be pushed out the bottom the piston/disc/nut is buried in the bottom and will not back/out because it has bottomed out.

Righty/tighty? Righty (CW) should cause the disc to back out/rise.

"Try not to take the rod out and it isn't necessary" if the rod can not be pushed out the bottom the rod can not be pushed out the bottom the think that looks like the bottom and is rotating with the shaft is the piston, if the piston locks onto the shaft after it hits bottom the finger locking seal can get crushed.

F. Guffey
(the think) should be the thing that looks like....

Sorry about that,

F. Guffey
You can go to the Lyman website; here's the link:

This shows the data for the newer Model 4500, but the guts are basically the same design as for the old Model 450. I have a 450 and have ordered some broken/spare parts as are currently available and they work on mine. I do not know if the parts for the 45 are interchangeable; you'd have to call Lyman on that one.

At the bottom of the page on the link that I've given above, there are three buttons. They are, Parts, FAQ, and Instructions. Check the diagram to see if you in fact need any parts; the basic designs will be similar. The instructions show/tell how the rig works.

On the older models, it's possible to tear the jack screw out of the bottom plate (usually with hard lubes); the newer design in the 4500 makes this less likely. If you are going to use harder lubes, for sure get the base heater for the older models, costs about $40. Unless you live in Yuma, AZ, where you won't need it in summer.
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Hi You all thanks for the come backs.
The pressure screw bottom out.
I took the whole thing apart. Stripped it. ORANGE OFF
Painted it red.
Put a o-ring grove on the pressure screw in my Lathe just at
the bottom when looking in side. To keep lube from seeping out.
I have a new pressure nut coming from Lyman
With two o-rings.
If I could up load pictures here I would.
Can that be done and if yes how.
I was cleaning my lyman 450 and some how,somw way!!! I lost my top cap
This thread's three years old, so a lot of the contributors are likely not current posters. But I expect any one of the Lyman 800 numbers will let you find out what it will cost to replace it.
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