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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tang safety model made in year 1990 (prefix 772). Trigger breaks at 5.5 lbs when turned in to where about it requires 2 full turns brings it to surface. At surface level its 5 lbs. When I backed it out to where three threads show there was no change and finally backed it out to near 4-5 threads show and get 4.5 lbs.

Just got this gun and its like new. Other than perhaps grease interferring with operation....is this as good as it gets???? For what its worth the trigger breaks like glass...no creep at all.

Am unfamiliar with older Rugers as this is my first M77. Its a varmint model in 22-250 and I want about 2 lbs. How far can you safely back that screw out without it being an ornament or falling out? If I can go further out and do any good...I can put locktite on it. Seems to me I should be seeing a gradient in pull weight.

Also, is there a link to setting up this system, i.e., trigger engagement, etc. such as with the 700 remington?
 

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The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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Click on the 3rd Sticky from the top of this forum for information on adjusting the M77 trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks but thats for the MKII Ruger. This is for a M77 tang safety model. Should have made that more clearer.
 

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i did a search a while back on the internet and found instructions for the tang safety ruger trigger adjustment as outlined by the ruger instruction manual of that time. poke around i'm sure you'll find something out there.
 

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I'm not sure of the adjustment, but the screw hanging out doesn't hinder anything, and I wouldn't put locktite on it. Its very small and locktite will cause destruction should you decide to change it later.
 

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The tang safety 77's are not very adjustable by using installed screws, I have'nt done one in a couple of years but if I remember correctly it requires working with the engagement and sear angles. NOT something one should mess with if not completely sure of their trigger geometry as you could easily get a negative angle and unsafe trigger. Timney makes a trigger set up for the tang safety model that works pretty well and will allow much more adjustment, might look at that as an alternative. If you ever use loctite on a trigger (not recommended) make sure it is NOT the permanent red. Hope this helps.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Ditto that. I have one that went off when it was taken off safety, victim of a "trigger job" by someone who meant well but got a little carried away.

Fortunately, it was pointed up, and in a remote area. I have no idea where the bullet ended up, though.
 

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I've been searching the internet off and on for well over 2 years for the adjustment of the Ruger Model 77 tang saftey. I have found nothing on the trigger, just the MKII one. I keep running across stuff where a fellow did one once but they never seem to remember how they are done or where they got the information to do it.
Then you have the rich people that say to buy a aftermarket trigger. Shoot if I were rich enough to do that I would just sell the Ruger and buy a Remington 700 and rebarrel it to 22 cheata or the 220 swift I have in a Ruger with a stiff trigger pull. The Ruger in 243 sets in the gun safe while I use the Remington 700 with a nice smooth trigger. But I can't get rid of the 243 Ruger as it was my dads and the grand son isn't old enough to take it yet.
 

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If you call or email Ruger, they will send you a manual for the M77 and it has trigger adjustment procedures in it.

Dayton Traister triggers are only about $50, and a gunsmith could easily adjust yours for the same price.
 

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FWIW, my owner manual has a cutaway pic/diagram of the action/trigger, below which are the "Trigger Adjustment" instructions - which pretty much describe the different screws & springs & what they do - but then says that the engagement screw and the overtravel screw are both set by the factory and should not be further adjusted.
The weight of pull is the only factory recommended user adjustment, but w/o specific instruction other than to say the factory set it for minimum, which can be increased via tightening the screw.

At least, with the owner manual & the pic, anyone can see what to "not adjust further" ;) :D

.
 

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So if the owners manual has this information why wasn't yellow house told that?

As for $50.00 for a new trigger or a gunsmith can't happen for a long time now.
I'm 63 retired on a fixed income and a nice 401K. Since I retired food cost has tripled, fuel cost has tripled too as most other things. Then The companys who were invested in with my 401K flat died so that is gone.
I was saving for a used slug gun been saving all last year. Well the fridge puked on use a couple of weeks a go. Guess where my slug gun money went?

It is easy to sit back with a job and tell people to just spend money.
Also note I live in Michigan 15.5 % unemployment. So as an old fart I don't stand a snow balls chance in he77 of getting a job again.


:D Al
 

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Nobody here can help you with the 401K or a job, although its not like we haven't all experienced the same situations, but if you have a gun related question we are pretty quick to offer suggestions and help.

The manual is free from Ruger, their customer service phone number is: 603-865-2442
 

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Don't remember asking any one here for a job nor to restore my 401K.

Was trying to point out that in these times telling some one to buy some thing to fix a little problem may just make them feel more miserable than they were.

If some were able to buy the fix why bother to ask for help here?

I'd still like to know the answer to the question, So if the owners manual has this information why wasn't yellow house told that?

M77 (manufactured from 1968 to 1984) (Out of Production)

M77 (manufactured from 1985 to 1992) (Out of Production)
 

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Not everyone is in the same situation as you... I can't predict what your personal financial situation is. If you don't like the situation, that isn't my fault, get off my case about it.

I didn't know about the manual having the instructions until a few days ago perusing another Ruger specific forum.

Many people come here to ask questions about something they are about to buy out of sheer confusion in the marketplace of different products and companies. Take a look around, most threads have started about somebody wanting to buy a gun or caliber and want to know what other people recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I found the manual on rugers site but there are no specifics. Its strange that its easy to find step by step for the 700 but nothing for the tang safety Ruger. Even stranger is that I have a tang safety model in 243 and it has the best trigger I've ever seen.....straight out of the box!

One would assume that you turn in the engagement screw until the firing pin falls like on the Remmie then back it out a 1/4 turn....but who knows?

Its for sure that adjusting the pull weight screw does nothing.
 

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I haven't even found any thing as to which screw is which.
the rugar I have in 220 swift is the problem child. The one that belonged to my dad in 243 is fine.
I really like the swift round but it is about to go if I can't find a way to fix the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I haven't even found any thing as to which screw is which.
the rugar I have in 220 swift is the problem child. The one that belonged to my dad in 243 is fine.
I really like the swift round but it is about to go if I can't find a way to fix the trigger.
Look on Rugers home page and click on the drop down menu Customer Service and you'll see "Instructions and Manuals" You can also date your rifle from the table provided.

The diagram is on p.8 of this pdf file

http://www.ruger.com/products/_manuals/m77-below79.pdf

Triggers can be fixed but good rifles are hard to come by. Mine is likely going to a gunsmith to be straightened out. If that doesn't work a Timney will go in.
 
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