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They warned me. Everyone warned me. Even posts on this very forum warned me. I did it anyway, my Rem 700 TAC-21 in .338 Lapua finally saw some range time today, and my shoulder now feels like i tackled a semi..

The Rem came from the factory with an AAC 51T muzzle brake, which I'm sure did 'something', but not nearly enough. The kick on this thing was so hard I couldn't even keep my target in sight. I've been reading a lot about muzzle brakes and suppressors, but this isn't something I've ever needed on my nice, gentle creedmoor rifle..

What do you guys recommend? Upgraded brake (if so, what kind)? Suppressor? A couple months of heavy gym time?
 

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From the bench is tough.
You need to work up to it.
A PAST pad helps.
Lower your chair or raise your support. Have a straight back.
Shoot over the hood of a pick up. It helps to stand.
Make a leaning bench of PVC and ply or particle board.
A year from now and you will be used to it.
 

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Stand a bag of shot between you and it. That adds 25lbs to the weight of the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is the biggest rifle that you shoot other than the 338?

Might want to look at loading down a bit until you get used to it.
6.5 Creedmoor is probably the biggest I've shot a lot.. I played with a 308 win mag a few years ago, but very briefly, and i dont recall even noticing the kick
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Contact Ross Schuler
261 Victor Gust Drive
Mountain Home ID 83647
[email protected]
208 590 1843

https://rossbrakes.com

Contact Ross, good prices and service.
Thanks! I guess my question is; what will a new brake do for me? I've already got this factory one on here, will replacing it make a significant difference? Not sure if there's some sort of fancy math here, i'm trying to quantify it -- which might just be a fools errand.
 

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6.5 Creedmoor is probably the biggest I've shot a lot.. I played with a 308 win mag a few years ago, but very briefly, and i dont recall even noticing the kick
I don't know if the 300 Win Mag you shot was in a heavy rifle for a sporter rifle. It has a health kick though.

There can be a huge difference in the efficiency of a brake. I don't know much about them though. If you have a 20 lb rifle already, a good brake is probably about the only reasonable chance you have.
 

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I believe that stock design and shooting style (or form if you prefer) has a lot to do with felt recoil. I was once asked by a friend to mount a scope on His remington ADL . 270 Winchester and sight it in for Him. That .270 basically kicked my butt. Wasn't in the shoulder as much as it felt like it slapped you in the face with every shot. I think that it was just a poor stock design for the way I shoot or something. I was never so glad to get a rifle sighted in and to quit shooing in my life. There are also some really good recoil absorbing pads out there.
 

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I've already got this factory one on here, will replacing it make a significant difference?.
Except for what comes on Ronnie's 50's,. Factory breaks are just noise makers. If you get a noisemaker that actually has a wee bit of design in it; they make a big difference in recoil.

For the money, the SureFire procomp is hands down the winner for recoil reduction. For some bucks, the 5-star ba$tard brakes are extremely effective, as is the Terminator line from Australia.

Remember with a quality designed brake, gas flow makes a big difference. Light loads don't help.

Cheers
 

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japhar81;2272683The Rem came from the factory with an AAC 51T muzzle brake said:
One of my range buddies has a .338 Lapua that weighs in at about 20lbs. It's fitted with some kind of muzzle brake, I know not the name, but recoil is less than my 7-08. So they do exist, and they do work to plan. The bark is pretty mean under a covered shooting area, bite is very modest.

Don't give up ;)
 

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Muzzle brakes work but they make everyone around you miserable, even your friends may stop going to the range with you.

I have the 30 caliber version of the Silencerco Harvestor, unique in that it's a suppressor and a brake, you have to experience the recoil reduction yourself to believe it because.....it's unbelievable. My Harvestor makes my 7mag recoil like a 223.
Check out the reviews, mostly from guys with 338 LM


Check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXEBYzDX51Q

https://www.silencershop.com/silencerco-harvester-big-bore.html
 

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Japhar, I understand your problem. It is common place.

You have more gun than you can shoot. Sell it.

It will mean quite some time to get to just tolerate that much recoil. Everyone is different, some have shot for years and worked up to the big bangers. Your rifle is WAY beyond what most recreational sgooter will ever be able to shoot accurately and comfortable.

70+% of your recoil comes from the bullet and less than 30% comes from the weight of the gas leavng the muzzle. If brake is 50% effective that meaans a 15% reduction in recoil. The brake you have is probably close to that. Getting a more expensive brake might help by 5%. You will not even notice the new brake.

Shooting should be fun. You will shoot a 14# 308 winchester more accurate at 1,000 yards than that 338 Lapua. Big magnums are terrible in efficient, they burn way more power to get a few more fps, result recoil that does littl or nothing for the bullet.

just my 2 cents, after years of shooting BIG magnums.
 

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Japhar,
First ask yourself: "What did I buy this rifle in this caliber for?" Then ask: "Could another rifle in a caliber that won't knock me around so much do the same job?". If you can not come up with a reason or need for just such a hard kicker and if something else that doesn't knock you around so much will do the job sell it.

I had a friend who built his own single shot 50 Cal Browning Machine gun rifle. He shot it a lot, but he would not shoot a 338 Win. because he said that they kicked too hard. There are two components to Felt Recoil; the first is the force that comes back on you, the second is the speed which that force is perpetrated upon your body. All the 338 Mangleums seem to come to the rear at a rate high enough that the human body just has trouble moving fast enough to mitigate its force. You will need a treamendous amount of practice to learn to handle that rifle. The money is better spent buying ammo for something that you can shoot well and will not give you a case of galloping flinchitis which will carry on to other weapons and calibers.
 

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They warned me. Everyone warned me. Even posts on this very forum warned me. I did it anyway, my Rem 700 TAC-21 in .338 Lapua finally saw some range time today, and my shoulder now feels like i tackled a semi..

The Rem came from the factory with an AAC 51T muzzle brake, which I'm sure did 'something', but not nearly enough. The kick on this thing was so hard I couldn't even keep my target in sight. I've been reading a lot about muzzle brakes and suppressors, but this isn't something I've ever needed on my nice, gentle creedmoor rifle..

What do you guys recommend? Upgraded brake (if so, what kind)? Suppressor? A couple months of heavy gym time?
Not much you can do in the field, but for bench work, get a Caldwell Led Sled FCX with 50 lbs of sandbags to hold it down. https://www.caldwellshooting.com/rests/shooting-rests/lead-sled-fcx/820444.html#start=1 (they are pretty pricy now, I paid $179 for mine a long time ago). You might get a bump with the .338 Lapua, but with my 450 Bushmaster and 30-06 there is no recoil transmitted to my shoulder.
 
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