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I have a Marlin 336LTD that starts throwing shots all over the paper after the barrel heats up.  It's a problem when the temperature is in the 90's because I need to wait almost 45 minutes for the barrel to cool down.  I noticed that the forarm touches the barrel and was wondering if removing the contact would help(it has the forend cap).  Also, is the magazazine tube supposed to contact the barrel for the last 3/4 inch.  Thanks.
 

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Hi, JFD:
  Lossening the forearm cap has been suggested by both Mic (M.L.) McPherson and Karl Bosselman (sp?). If accuracy improves, remove enough wood so that the forearm is a bit loose with the cap in place.  

  McPherson's book, "Accurizing the Factory Rifle", covers lever actions as well as other actions. (I haven't read it.)
It's published by Precision Shooting Magazine.
<a href="http://www.precisionshooting.com/

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Jack
 

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I have a similar problem with my 444P Outfitter. The first two shots almost always touch or come close to touching at 50 yards, yet the third inevitably goes wide by 1.5-2 inches. Just today it did it again. I have in from of me a target with two separate three-shot groups. Four can be covers with a half dollar, the remaining two are about two inches south at 6 and 8 o' clock.
 

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As Jack has suggested, do try releiving that tension of the forearm and I think you'll see immediate improvement.  

Something to watch for with these guns, especially the older ones, is that over the years, many folks while cleaning their rifles, or oiling them, will get quantities of gun oil on the stock and forearm.  The wood will absorb this oil over the years, and the wood will swell, making it nearly impossible to remove the forend of the 336's, especially those with the 3/4 length magazine tubes (holds true for .444's, .45-70's, .375 Wichesters, and .35 Remingtons), as there is the forend hanger dovetailed into the barrel, and no place for the wood to go as it swells.  This can cause some serious pressures on the barrel as the wood swells from oil soaking over the years.  The only cure is to pull the fore-end and go to work on it.  Often times you'll see remarkable improvements in accuracy once done.

I don't know if this applies to the gun you are working with, but thought it was worth mentioning!

God Bless,

Marshall
 

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Marshall Stanton said:
As Jack has suggested, do try releiving that tension of the forearm and I think you'll see immediate improvement.  

Something to watch for with these guns, especially the older ones, is that over the years, many folks while cleaning their rifles, or oiling them, will get quantities of gun oil on the stock and forearm.  The wood will absorb this oil over the years, and the wood will swell, making it nearly impossible to remove the forend of the 336's, especially those with the 3/4 length magazine tubes (holds true for .444's, .45-70's, .375 Wichesters, and .35 Remingtons), as there is the forend hanger dovetailed into the barrel, and no place for the wood to go as it swells.  This can cause some serious pressures on the barrel as the wood swells from oil soaking over the years.  The only cure is to pull the fore-end and go to work on it.  Often times you'll see remarkable improvements in accuracy once done.

I don't know if this applies to the gun you are working with, but thought it was worth mentioning!

God Bless,

Marshall
Hi Marshall, I'm working on a 336 restoration of a 1951 model - I'm having trouble getting the forend off. It has the 3/4 mag and metal end cap (not the newer hanging loop). Maybe my wood is swelled as well - how would the forearm come off normally? I expected it to slide off after the end cap was removed and slid down to the forend hanger - but the wood doesn't want to move - muscle it down and off the mag? Remove the mag completely and slide it off?

Thanks!
 

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It's been a while, but IIRC, do it this way. Remove the magazine tube first, as the wood almost wraps around it. Then tilt the front of the forend down a couple of inches before pulling it off.

Bye
Jack
 

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JFD, first welcome and heed much of the advise you have been given, this is an excellent place to find the cures for most levergun problems. One other point I would like to make is that you should always bring a couple of diversions with you to make time fly while you are having fun. Bring biodegradable targets such as crackers and necco candies, with you and two other firearms one of which should be a .22 then double up on your fun, make sure your warmed up firearm is placed with the bolt open for quicker cooling while shooting your other firearms. Do this now and make sure you do some of the upgrades applicable to your problems and while you are at it get a trigger job done on the 336.
 

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Dosen't a hot barrel make difference also.. and move shots away from POI somewhat?? Or does releaving the pressure from forearm eliminate the need to cool the barrel to point you can hold it in hand..??
 
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