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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got a new 336c . lever action will not lock. pulled all available schematics and took rifle apart and rebuilt twice. the problem is the locking bolt #24 is not engaging the lever action. not extra parts laying around . Any ideas
 

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are we talking will not lock up on a round, or at all? my wifes' 336 in .35 rem wouldnt chamber(lock up) on buffalo bore ammunition. a little more info maybe?
 

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Beer, I dont know what "locking bolt #24" is. In the manual, part #24 is the firing pin spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
by locking I mean the lever will not lock into place. to fire you would have to hold the lever to the stock
.

sorry for the wrong diagram . part 24 in this diagram

http://www.gunuts.com/view.php?view=details&model_id=40&type=2

i can see where this part is made to lock with the lever action but its not happening so the lever is not tight against the stock and not pushing the saftey
 

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Beerdrynkr, The lever locking plunger is just there to hold the lever closed, it does not lock it tight to the frame and release the trigger lock. It's just a friction lock to keep the lever from opening when carrying it by the forearm. The lever must be held against the trigger block release in order to fire the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Beerdrynkr, The lever locking plunger is just there to hold the lever closed, it does not lock it tight to the frame and release the trigger lock. It's just a friction lock to keep the lever from opening when carrying it by the forearm. The lever must be held against the trigger block release in order to fire the gun.

So its basically another form of a safety? I am presuming this is on newer lever actions because I have owned them before and never had this issue.
 

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http://www.hunter-ed.com/wa/course/2-7_actions_lever.htm

Check out this site, it has an animation of the 336 cycling. If everything is clean and working, your lever should latch and stay closed. there is a spring loaded latch in the lever, just above the trigger guard to hold it closed, so you should not have to "hold the lever closed" .You will notice that in the closed position, the lock pushes the rear firing pin up so the hammer will now drop ont it and it will then transfer to the firing pin. There is another safety lock behind the trigger. The lever must also be in the locked position for this little lever to lift and clear the trigger so it can come off the hammer sear. It is held in the lower trigger housing by a spring that looks like a stretched clothespin spring. This little lock is about 3/32 thick and "U" shaped.

Mr Marlin thunk out our safety pretty durn good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
great link. thanks.
it did show the lock hooking into the top of the lever action to hold it closed. as far as I can tell this is not happening, but with lever held closed I cannot physically see inside. Between the link and diagrams and you good folks Ill tear it apart again and "get er dun" Its a new rifle so I presume all parts are working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just took gun down and inspected all parts. nothing broken. did look at the locking bolt and though I cant see inside, there is not enough play in it for that to be the problem. looked at the finger plunger and took my other 336. closed both and the finger plunger is not locking. looked at the lever itself and as wierd as it might seem . I think I have a bad lever On my other 336 when its closed I have a nice even approx 1/16 gap between lever and stock. On my problem child the back of the lever is hitting first not allowing it to close completely. thus it cannot lock properly. The good news is I know know intimently the workings of a 336 lever action lol.
 

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The ONLY reason I drink Crown is for those little purple bags. One bag will hold about 1000 .22's. or 50 30/30's
If it weren't for the bags, water would do. [yea right]

I wonder if your lever was bent in shipping. Interesting problem. Glad you were able to solve it. I learn a lot from others on these sites. Don't mind sharing what little I do know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am not sure if it was the lever or the two back bars that hold the stock on, they got bent apart pretty sure it was my bad. original stock looked like plastic **** so i put on a camo stock. thinking that is where the problems started. IMHO the gun was built with less than quality steel, never should have happened but it did and we worked through it.
as for the bags. not a bad idea, never had much luck storing ammo in a old ice house box lol
 

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hmmm. I'd guess the steel has not changed for these guns. I doubt it is an alloy steel, there is no need for the strengh alloy steel offers and heat treating it would be an extra manufacturing expense. Besides, whether old or new, all the steel in Marlins is easy to file, a sure sign of "vanilla" steel. Anyway, I suggest looking again at the fit of the new stock. It just may be that it is holding the tang away from the part that holds the trigger, making it a dimensional problem, not a material problem.

My experience with guns over the years is that if I need much force at all to achieve a goal, sumpin' is wrong, and the force results in unintended bad outcome.
 
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