I have performed the forend work on several of my rifles and it made a positive difference on each rifle. I use a slightly modified technique. I bed the front and rear of the forend in glass as he describes and then bed the barrel channel with the silicone before bedding the mag tube. I just could not coordinate both the barrel channel and the mag tube at the same time.
I have an alluminum pillar installed in my butt stocks and it works very well. It is not the same as throughbolt but is much easier to install and very positive.
Question on the spacer between the barrel and mag. tube. Is that metal and do you leave it in perminently? Also on my 336 (brand new) do I enlarge the Inside Dia. of the barrel band area so the band only clamps on the mag. tube and the barrel floats? This is my first attempt at something like this.
The spacer is a neoprene washer I bought at Home Depot. A lot of guys on Marlin Owners recommend them and they work for me. It keeps the silicone on the mag tube from turning into a fulcrum if you overtighten the screw.
For a barrel band rifle your assumption is correct. Polish both the mag tube and barrel portion of the barrel band but slightly enlarge the part of the band that goes around the barrel. You can put a bit of RTV here to. The most accurate Marlin I ever had had this feature. I also put a bit of silicone in the forend at the tip around the mag tube to help stabilize the tube at the midsection. This worked very well.
Another tip: Perform the RTV silicone bedding early in the day. After several hours you can trim the excess that squeezes out of the barrel channel. If you wait overnight, it doesn't trim well but it does need to set up for a couple of hours or it is too gooey. Trim the glass bedding in the same manner - let it set a bit before trimming but don't let it fully harden.
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