Lapping procedure should be the same. I didn't do anything different when I did my .35 Rem.
One thing to consider, you need to ensure that the lapping bullet doesn't leave a bunch of lead in the barrel (bullet too fast), yet it also need to not get stuck either (bullet too slow). So there is a velocity window which may mean different loads for both the rifle and the handgun.
I've never stuck a lapping bullet in a rifle barrel, but have many times in a revolver. I think that the b/c gap has a lot to do with bullets getting stuck.
With the micro-groove, I'd brush it out every few shots. You could get some lead building up down in the grooves where it's hard to see and then it will impede the progress of the lapping.
Most lapping compounds are oil- or grease-based, so brake cleaner ought to do real well for cleanup, but I'd still run a patch through the chamber just to be safe.
Another thing that I've found, as the lapping progresses, the bullets have less of a tendency to stick in the bore (makes sense that they get farther down a smooth barrel. Loads that will stick a bullet every time when the process starts, zip right on out the muzzle by the time you're done.
So, if I was going to lap some new guns and didn't have any idea where to start the loads, I'd probably load up some a bit on the fast side, the bulk of the rounds somewhere in the middle of what I thought the powder charge would be, and then a few on the light side.
For example, for the .41 mag, probably a few at say 2.5gr. of Bullseye, a larger number at maybe 2.2gr., and then some at 2.0gr.