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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I Love my Winchester and I have had no problem with the rebounding hammer causing light strikes and really do not mind the tang safety on mine. The rifle is extremely well made and beautiful.

But I was reading on another forum the other day and someone was talking about the rebound hammer and how to disable it. I got to thinking about mine so started looking it up with my Google foo. Found out it is very easily done away with, so I did remove mine and now no more rebounding hammer. It took a total of about 20 minuets to take the stock off and have the gun done and back together it was so easy.

Anyway it seems that a lot of people do not like the rebounding hammer on the new Winchesters. So I thought that I would post this.

Also want people who want this done to realize how the safety works after it is done. If the hammer is all the way down onto the firing pin and the safety is applied it locks the gun completely up. The hammer will not budge so the lever can not be used. If the rifle is on half cock and the safety is on and the trigger pulled the rifle will let the hammer fall but it will not reach the firing pin (as it is designed to work). If in the half cock position and the safety is not put in the safe position and the trigger is pulled the hammer will drop. The half cock notch on these rifles are really not a safety notch they will still let the hammer fall if the trigger is pulled hard enough. I do not know if this can be fixed by doing something to the hammer or not. It does not bother me because the rifle has the safety. If the safety is put on the safe mode and the rifle hammer is at full cock and the trigger is pulled the hammer will drop but can not reach the firing pin.

I like that my hammer does not rebound any more and happy with the way my safety works on it now. Believe I will leave her alone and just enjoy her now. She is a very sleek lady. Just classy, and like most Brunettes in 44 Mag she has quite a punch.
 

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I disabled the rebounding hammer on a Marlin. If the safety is "on" and the trigger pulled nothing happens. Then when the safety was moved to the "off" position after the trigger is pulled on "safe" the gun would fire. Totally unsafe so the rebounding hammer feature was re-installed.
 

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I disabled the rebounding hammer on a Marlin. If the safety is "on" and the trigger pulled nothing happens. Then when the safety was moved to the "off" position after the trigger is pulled on "safe" the gun would fire. Totally unsafe so the rebounding hammer feature was re-installed.
The Marlin safety isn't the same as the Miroku. The Marlin is a simple cross block that gets between the hammer and the firing pin. Not the same thing.
 

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How incredibly odd it is that the safety freaks have and had ZERO issues with the 94s that left the manufacturer “pre” rebounding hammer. John Moses Browning designed the 1894 (its progeny being the 94 and 94AE) with the totally effective half cock feature. It worked wonderfully well “back then” and still does. I refuse to rely on a mechanical feature for my safety. I teach the young about Cooper’s rules and concerning the 94, about the half cock feature. NEVER had any problems. I had light strikes with Remington and CCI primers with my 94AEs and my Marlin 336. I ordered the lower tang parts and converted both my 94AEs to the half cock configuration (the circa 1986 30-30 thankfully didn’t have a “wart” safety or the tang contraption – the newer 44 Magnum’s tang thing was easily removed), installed a one piece firing pin & the hammer block abomination was replaced with a fake screw kit on the Marlin. Polishing the sear engagements on all the rifles yielded safe and crisp 3 pound trigger pulls. And best of all, ZERO light primer strikes anymore. Yeah, I could have used strictly Federal primers, (which I like) but there’s no guarantee I can always get them. The best safety is the one between the shooter’sears.
 
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