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Discussion Starter #1
On my Winchester model 94, When I cycle a bullet into the chamber one bullet will come out of the loading tube and on the cycle to go into the chamber, another bullet will come out the magazine and jam the gun. One bullet is trying to go into the chamber and the other one is under the lift that comes up to put the bullet in the chamber .
 

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You have a worn cartridge stop on the link - the bottom flat plate when look at the bottom of the receiver.
As you lower the lever the link tilts the front portion up and the “tit” on the front of the link - the cartridge stop - rises and stops the next cartridge in line in the magazine from coming back under the lifter.

This is an easy part to replace and you can contact Winchester Parts for a new link - or the link you have can be “blacksmithed” easily. Take the link out and on a vice or anvil work the cartridge stop a bit with a flat punch and a 2 lb. hammer. You want to bring up the point just a little. Round the top gently with a file. You will see what a nice little round top it has if you stop and study it for a moment. It only requires four or five good taps with the hammer and punch up toward the top of the cartridge stop to make it grow a little.
 

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.

the part looks like this, the pencil is pointing to the area of the cartridge stop. That is the part that gets rounded or worn. I hope that helps.



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Discussion Starter #4
OK, I thought that might be the problem; next question : I have an acetylene
welder - not bad with it (use to do auto-body for a living) SO, am I best
to hammer on (stretch it up) as you said OR just add a little mettle to it
with the welder before smoothing with the file. How do I get the piece
out of the gun? THANKS Sam

OOPS! I just took another look down in there with a better light. It looks
to me like a very small piece is broken out . It still might be that I can
"add a little metal) with the welder and file it back down. BUT, 2 things
would be helpful:
1) some more pictures of the part (different angles) so I will know what a
healthy one looks like AND
2) in case I am not as good at welding as I hope - do you know the part
number and a good supplier? THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, I thought that might be the problem; next question : I have an acetylene
welder - not bad with it (use to do auto-body for a living) SO, am I best
to hammer on (stretch it up) as you said OR just add a little mettle to it
with the welder before smoothing with the file. How do I get the piece
out of the gun? THANKS Sam

OOPS! I just took another look down in there with a better light. It looks
to me like a very small piece is broken out . It still might be that I can
"add a little metal) with the welder and file it back down. BUT, 2 things
would be helpful:
1) some more pictures of the part (different angles) so I will know what a
healthy one looks like AND
2) in case I am not as good at welding as I hope - do you know the part
number and a good supplier? THANKS
 

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A gas torch would not be the ideal tool in my estimation, but a tig welder would do the job much better, if that's what you want to do. Depending on the year and caliber of your rifle, the part is readily available ....we probably have 40 of them in various configurations. To disassemble, search the posts on this site as i believe it has been very nicely addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
miss-feed

I do n ot have a "mig" welder and therfore have no experience using one.

What would be the cost for a new OR good one? $ ___


I believe my rifle was made in 1968; the serial number looks to be (something that looks like s "c" or but backwards - 'horse shoe" followed by 101694 .That 6 could be a "G" but I think it is a 6. The 'Pin" is definatly a screw ( not a drive out pin) with the slotted head on the left side of the gun.


THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter #8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I do n ot have a "mig" welder and therfore have no experience using one.

What would be the cost for a new OR good one? $ ___


I believe my rifle was made in 1968; the serial number looks to be (something that looks like s "c" or but backwards - 'horse shoe" followed by 101694 .That 6 could be a "G" but I think it is a 6. The 'Pin" is definatly a screw ( not a drive out pin) with the slotted head on the left side of the gun.


THANKS
 

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If it is a 30-30 and a post 64 as you have described, then a good used complete one is $39.00. Again readilly avail. Your backwards horseshoe would be a 3 then
 

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Discussion Starter #10
miss fire

I know I' probably being a bother, BUT what is a "ccomplete one." What all does that include? Is it something YOU sale, or where do I find it?

BY THE WAY, BOTHET THOUGH I MAY BE --- IREALLY DO APPRECIATE YOU TAKING THE TIME FOR ME. SAM
 

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Correct !!
Yes, we have them in stock.
Contact via pm if you want to order
 
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