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On my current Ruger Model 77 Compact Magnum in .308, I didn't had to glassbed it at all. Groups 5-shot very accurately @ 100 yards, printing < .50" with my handloaded ammunition. First Ruger 77 that I didn't have to glassbed; also my Ruger 77/.22 Hornet has not require me to glassbed it, but I did change the trigger spring and sear. Five shot groups are < .750" @ 100 yards with careful handloads.
 

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I want the tang screws to be be near center of the bedding areas. The goal is solid contact with no stress. SO, I like to bed under the chamber and back to the front of the magazine box. NEVER tighten the tang screws when glass bedding. Let it just lay there held in place by elastic bands or tubing.

Straight, Solid and Square equals Accuracy. ;)
Thanks. In the past I always used surgical tubing. My Dad was a Dr., so it was easy to come by.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Surgical tubing is my choice also. It used to be every hardware store had a roll of it but I just had to order from ebay to find it!

I use the tang screws sometimes to pull down tight fits, but slack off on the screws and use the tubing to hold the barreled action in place.

All flat bottomed actions are bedded the same, from the Mausers to Model 70s, Sako, Tikka, Ruger and others.
The round actions need 'pillars' to properly space the parts.
(If a 'smith offers to 'pillar bed' a flat bottomed action he'll also try to sell you a left-handed extension cord!)
 

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There was a medical supply house in Cleveland where I bought any surgical tubing. I still have a lot. To store it pour powder on it. Baby powder will work but I have rubber powder.
Next are strips of bicycle inner tube rubber. I have a drawer full of strips. Works great to fix cracks in a stock.
I made slingshots with surgical tubing in the old days. Never had less then 17 rabbits a day. I got sick of eating them. Could not shoot a gun there but I counted 45 rabbits when walking a tree line. Also pheasants and I took them out of the air or on the ground. One time we went to a place with a ton of birds. One got up and I threw a golf club at him. Nasty weapon. Meat in the pot.
One time with a bow and a flu-flu arrow with a blunt, I hit a bird. He caught his wings and I watched him fly into the wires at the road. It was funny to see me pick him up with cars at the light.
I was crazy, had a pellet gun and shot a starling on a wire at the stop light. It fell on a car so I ran inside. I ran inside a lot.
I used to shoot a bow at night to the garage with a light on. I seen something run by, cat. I swung and put the arrow through but half way. He got caught in the fence but made it through. Went into a set of steps. I hit it again but it would not die. He went into a neighbors stairwell and screamed by the door. I ran inside again.
 

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M 77 Hawkeye Compact bedding

I know this is an older post but it is helpful for my current problem so I appreciate the advice. I have a Ruger Hawkeye Compact in 300 RCM that has demonstrated unacceptable accuracy so far with only Hornady factory ammo. Groups are random with 3-4"or even larger. I tried easy step of checking action screw torque; gunsmith suggested really tightening front angled screw but this did not help. I suspect magazine is binding against action, so I will relieve magazine as suggested. I watched a You Tube video on bedding action that was also quite helpful. I will post again as i work through the solution. Interestingly, wife's ruger Compact in 7-08 shoots very well straight out of the box with handloads and factory ammo.
 

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Ruger Hawkeye Compact Accuracy Issue

OK, I have now relieved the magazine housing on my Ruger Hawkeye Compact 300 RCM, to provide some free play and avoid pressure contact points, as suggested by JBelk, and have free-floated barrel. I have not yet bedded action, as that appears to be a major task, compared to the other 2 tasks I have done. I plan to shoot this weekend and see if problem solved before deciding on bedding action. Stay tuned.
 

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Update on Ruger 77 Compact accuracy issues

Well free-floating barrel and relieving magazine box did not help at all. Groups wer 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches. Very frustrating. Before I free-floated barrel, I had tried to increase pressure on forend with a shim. Accuracy did improve to about 1-1/2" groups but I thought I could do better with free-floating barrel. I was wrong. I plan to reconstruct the pressure point near front of forend and check results before taking the plunge and glass-bedding action if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Whatta mean 'if necessary'. ;) Your accuracy says the action is stressed with the screws tight. Bed it WITHOUT using the bedding screws but to squeeze out epoxy, then relax them so the action lays properly aligned but not under stress. Hold it in place with surgical tubing or elastic bands bummed from the lab blood nurse. :)

Have you looked at the crown with 20X magnification? It's a good idea.
 

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Well free-floating barrel and relieving magazine box did not help at all. Groups wer 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches. Very frustrating. Before I free-floated barrel, I had tried to increase pressure on forend with a shim. Accuracy did improve to about 1-1/2" groups but I thought I could do better with free-floating barrel. I was wrong. I plan to reconstruct the pressure point near front of forend and check results before taking the plunge and glass-bedding action if necessary.
Might think about replacing the non-adjustable factory trigger with one that you can adjust lighter. This might help and if not then there is still something wrong with the bedding.
 

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Whatta mean 'if necessary'. ;) Your accuracy says the action is stressed with the screws tight. .
No that's not what it says, READ what he wrote:

I have a Ruger Hawkeye Compact in 300 RCM that has demonstrated unacceptable accuracy so far with only Hornady factory ammo. .
. Before I free-floated barrel, I had tried to increase pressure on forend with a shim. Accuracy did improve to about 1-1/2" groups but I thought I could do better with free-floating barrel..

What it says, is that with ONE brand of factory ammo accuracy stunk; It says nothing more. Rather than trying another brand or possibly even bullet weight, he tried a shim. Much as all Ruger's come with, took him into "about":rolleyes: 1.5" groups. Not satisfied with more than 150% size reduction for ONE brand of ammo, the shim system was abandoned not adjusted, and barrel floated. There is no reason to keep throwing "fixes" at the rifle, when you don't know what's "wrong", other than you expect one brand and bullet weight to simply be a one-hole group.


And this is a sticky, you should start your own thread.
 

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Ammo, OH MY! Yes for sure. Every single lot can have a different powder or bullet. Ammo makers buy in lots and test powders for burn rates to match velocities and pressures. I told you about a friend that bought only Fed premium loads each year and they were all dumped on the floor when his young niece played with them so they were mixed. Nothing shot so I had to pull a few hundred down to load again. I found 6 different powders and 6 different bullets, Sierra, Hornady, etc. Even one brand of bullet had different ogives. The old saw of getting one lot is still true. The big problem is when you find a lot that shoots, you will never find it in the stores again.

Ruger used to buy barrels until they started to make them because they varied too much. Ruger makes fine barrels. The bedding system works too.

There is only one thing I found and it is not only a Ruger. The rear tang on the action must have some relief or it will split the wrist. I have repaired wrists and drilled to bed a steel rod in to contact the tang. Best to never stress the action and leave a little gap at the tang. Action screws were not made to take recoil, it is the job of the recoil lug. If you notice large calibers have a cross bolt behind the lug.
 
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