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Kevin:Where are you located? If you're anywhere in the Cariboo I can provide you with samples of 2 RCBS gas checked bullets to try out. They are 327Gr. and 417 Gr. weighed checked and lubed. My preference for practice is the lighter bullet simply because it uses less lead. It would also suffice for deer hunting. The heavier bullet is suitable for almost any thing you are likely to hunt. My current stash of bullets are not cast very hard and about 1450-1500 fps seems to be about max for accuracy. Ten shot groups at 50 yds. run 1 1/4-1 1/2 from my 1886 with a receiver sight.  As soon as it warms up a bit I intend to do a large casting and heat treat them so they handle higher velocities better. Getting molds in Canada is always a bit of a pain but there seems to be more RCBS carried by the wholesalers my gunshop deals with than other brands.  Reading the posts on other web sites Lee molds seem to be pretty variable in casting quality although they are quite reasonable to buy. A lot of the guys report having to doctor them quite a bit to get them casting right.
 

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Kevin: Yep,we're a ways apart though I have a cousin who lives in Cornwallis. The RCBS mold for the 327 gr is a 2 cavity while the 417 gr is a single. This doubles your production when casting and saves you 200 grains of lead+- each time. Believe me these big bullets really eat up the lead.
Assuming similar velocities you will note less recoil with the lighter bullet.
H4198 is very useful as is IMR3031 and 5744 if you can find it, One of the reloader series (can't remember which offhand, mightbe Re7) is also good. Loads in the velocity range you referred to are quite pleasant to shoot. Once you approach 1800 with the heavier bullet it really starts to get your attention.
Point of impact does vary considerably between bullet weights and you are either adjusting your sight or varying your sight picture to compensate.
I have a Williams foolproof on my rifle and it is not a convenient sight to make quick elevation changes with. If you can find a Lyman 66 receiver sight with the push button elevation slide release it would be an easy trick just to keep notes of the correct setting for each load and change as you need. I have had one ordered for nearly a year and no luck. I suspect the wholesaler in Vancouver is not even trying but what can you do? Any how I think you will have a lot of fun at the range with your rifle. I know I have.
 

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Kevin: re: your Lee mold. You didn't say how badly the bullets stick. Do you have to rap the hinge repeatedly to get the bullet to drop or does a tap or two do the trick? You can try starting from scratch by using a good degreaser and resmoking it. Also check for any small burrs in the grooves that may be hanging it up. They can be polished a bit to slick them up as well but go easy as you can change the dimensions. For degreasing you can use bore scrubber or auto parts degreaser which comes in spray cans. Don't use any mineral spirit based cleaners as they leave an oily residue.
 

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Kevin; RCBS does list their FNGC with a 300 number. It doesn't cast 300gr. Mine come out the mold (10 lbs WW -1/2 lb 50-50 solder) at very close to 324-325. Add gas check and lube and its about 327.  This bullet could have used a slightly bigger meplat for hunting but it's pretty good.  For your info my practice load with it is 38 grains IMR 3031. That is a very accurate load in my rifle but is not a clean burner and a lot of powder granules are left in the bore and even the case. Fed 215 primers did not improve this so I'm using 210's. If I find a cleaner burning powder that groups as well I will be changing. Have a variety loaded and have to get to the range. For the 417 (I think RCBS refers to it as a 405) FNGC 42 grs IMR3031 is my current accuracy load. Suspect with harder bullets this can be increased considerably. Again I have a few new loads to test with other powders at the practice level. I've loaded the 405 gr Rem. jacketed to 53 grains 3031 but accuracy was best at 51 grains so settled on that as being more than adequate for moose,elk, bear, etc.. I am shooting a new production 1886 Extra Light rifle and have encountered no excessive pressure indicators at those levels and could possibly increase it. Don't see any point to it.  Recoil and control of the rifle are really limiting factors. The factory stock finish is some kind of very slick synthetic and it is hard to keep it in your left hand when shooting full power loads. Plan to checker it in the next couple of weeks to get a better grip. May replace the finish with tung oil at the same time.  I wouldn't go that high with 3031 in an older 1886 although I know some guys used to. Ken Waters advises against it and I don't see any point in beating up older rifles.
Thanks for the Lyman #.
 

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Kevin; RCBS does list their FNGC with a 300 number. It doesn't cast 300gr. Mine come out the mold (10 lbs WW -1/2 lb 50-50 solder) at very close to 324-325. Add gas check and lube and its about 327.  This bullet could have used a slightly bigger meplat for hunting but it's pretty good.  For your info my parctice load with it is 38 grains IMR 3031. That is a very accurate load in my rifle but is not a clean burner and a lot of powder granules are left in the bore and even the case. Fed 215 primers did not improve this so use 210's. If I find a cleaner burning powder that groups as well I will be changing. Have a variety loaded and have to get to the range. For the 417 (I think RCBS refers to it as a 405) FNGC 42 grs IMR3031 is my current accuracy load. Suspect with harder bullets this can be increased considerably. Again I have a few new loads to test with other powders at the practice level. I've loaded the 405 gr Rem. jacketed to 53 grains 3031 but accuracy was best at 51 grains so settled on that as being more than adequate for moose,elk, bear, etc.. I am shooting a new production 1886 Extra Light rifle and have encountered no excessive pressure indicators at those levels and could possibly increase it. Don't see any point to it.  Recoil and control of the rifle are really limiting factors. The factory stock finish is some kind of very slick synthetic and it is hard to keep it in your left hand when shooting full power loads. Plan to checker it in the next couple of weeks to get a better grip. May replace the finish with tung oil at the same time.  I wouldn't go that high with 3031 in an older 1886 although I know some guys used to. Ken Waters advises against it and I don't see any point in beating up older rifles.
 
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