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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've finally got my hands on a Marlin 1894 in 357 mag. It is about 25 years old and has never been shot. It belonged to my grandfather until he sold it to me. My only issue with it is that the action is stiff and rough. I know that a lot of it would work out in use, but I was wondering if there's anything that I could do to make it smooth, and to try and prevent the Marlin Jam. What would y'all suggest? Oh, and I might try cowboy action shooting with it as well.
 

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Congratutions now, Load it and start shooting that heirloom.

CD
 

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Piney Woods Moderator
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Congratulations on your new old gun. I just got one of these 357 carbines myself and love it. A good cleaning and lubrication should take care of a lot of the stiffness. If the gun has been setting up a long time, most of any oil on the parts has now dried. The Marlin is very simple to take apart and maintain. Good shooting....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to getting to the range. But with the way the weathers been it might be a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now this is my first Marlin and I'd like to prevent the dreaded Marlin Jam and any other problems that may arise. What do I need to look for and what do I need to do to prevent the jam?
 

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that marlin jam your speakin' of usally is when the gun is well worn,shot a whole lot. so if your's is never been fired your ok. like they say just clean it good and run some lead though it. fire in the hole !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I plan on putting a lot of lead down it. I keep hearing about the jam, and all the trouble it is to fix, but what causes it?
 

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I only know what causes my 1894 to jam: loose screw in the action. You know the one in the manual (download at Marlin) that has the arrow pointing to it and says "Keep this screw tight"? That one. I believe it's the loading gate or loading spring screw.

I have also read of a guy who removed his magazine follower and called Marlin, telling them the gun jammed allt he time. They sent him a new one, though I don;t know if the jam continued.

I keep an appropriately sized screwdriver in my 1894 rifle case pocket anytime I shoot that rifle. If it jams, and without a way to remove the lever screw, the shooting for that day is over.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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The cam wears into the lifter, I think. Fix is to gently polish a radius, best I recall. There is a lot more detail elsewhere on the site; might try the search feature. I don't have an 1894 anymore so can't tear down one and give more info, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, I've tried searching but I keep coming up with other models. Are the Marlin lever actions all basically the same?
And the screw that StretchNM mentioned, couldn't that be locked with blue Loctite?
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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I thought we had it posted as a 'sticky' somewhere but I guess not. Do a search on the posts that member SFT has made, I think he goes into more detail.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 'sticky' was an Cross-sectional view of the marlin 336 action. How different are the 1894 and 336?
 

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Marlins are used by a lot of CAS shooters. The procedures to smooth up a Marlin are pretty simple, but if you have never tried it, you might want to consider taking it to a guy who does action jobs on rifles for CAS. When a Marlin is slicked up, it is really sweet, esp. the .357s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Why wouldn't you use it for CAS? As long as you take care of it and keep it clean I don't see any problem using it. He's never shot it, its just been a safe queen for 25 years. Besides this one is just the worst of the bunch. He has two others, one is a Ted Williams Model 100. Which is the Winchester 94 with different markings. The 1894 is basically the same as a new one just without the safety and a different rifling.
What kind of price do most gunsmiths charge to slick up an action? I'd like to get a general price to see how our local smiths do.
 

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Wolfen, there a minor differences between 1894 and 336, but the idea will be exactly the same in the two. If all you have is a 336 go-by, use that. THe lifter and other affecting parts are identical.

You must take the action down. This is NOT a complicated process, but requires a little go-by for the first time or two. PM me and I will send a link to you where there are step-by-step instructions with solid photos. Easy.

As far as Locktite on the loading gate screw, yes, and I've done exactly that. In fact, I locktite them all except for the lever screw. And the only reason I don;t is because I clean it every time I shoot (necessitates removing lever, bolt and ejector) and it wouldn;t make sense to locktite. If I fire twenty rounds, for example, I've got to thumbnail or otherwise (with lever half open) turn that lever screw a tad. It seems to me to be the nature of these rifles.

Slicking the action? Once you break a Marlin 1894 or 336 down, as I mentioned in first paragraph, you may want to "slick" it up yourself...or not. In my very humble opinion, it should be done (if done by us) in increments, maybe a little each time we break down the action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'll at least polish the action, but as far as shaping it I would probably go to a gunsmith.
 

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Now this is my first Marlin and I'd like to prevent the dreaded Marlin Jam and any other problems that may arise. What do I need to look for and what do I need to do to prevent the jam?

wolfen,

The 'dreaden Marin Jam" didn't happen with 1894 357's. It was a "letting in two" with the 1894 32-20, etc.. If you ever have a problem with "letting in two", Marlin will fix it for free

Dan
 

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tuning marlin lever actions

hello all,

my first post.

some may find the link below helpful. i reworked(smoothed up), my cowboy 1895, made it run a lot better.

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

more primers, more powder, more bullets.........................
and guns...............................................................................

have a good day,
tom.......................................
 
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