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Beartooth Regular
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Hello everyone,
     I just got done refinishing the wood on my Marlin 336A and thought I would post a few pics. Sorry but I don't know how to post several pictures in one message so I'll put each one in a new "reply".
     I got this gun last year, and although it was in excellent mechanical condition and shoots wonderfully the wood had signs of mishandling and the kind of non-descript light brown wood that Marlins had in the 70's-80's. There where some dings and a white streak across the butt where it had been banged against something painted white. I was able to raise the dents and took off all the old finish. I used a red oak stain to darken and redden the wood a bit and then applied multiple coats of Tru-Oil. It came out pretty nice I think!  ID



<!--EDIT|IDShooter|Mar. 29 2002,15:12-->
 

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Beartooth Regular
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Discussion Starter #2
Here's pic # 2. Hey, notice that greenish brown stuff on the ground? I think that's grass!!
 

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IDshooter, the stocks look fantastic.  You've given me some incentive - my brother-in-law gave me an old Ted Williams 30-30 that wouldn't work.  I asked this boards opinions and ended up replacing the carrier spring.  sure help to ask.  This carbine has stocks that show a lot of figuare under the cheesy varnish it is finished with.  Since I just shortened the butt stock and put on a decelerator pad so my daughter could use it - I think her and I will go ahead and refinish the stocks.  You did a great job on yours, any suggestions?.....RW
 

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Beartooth Regular
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ID,
WOW!!!  Looks Great.  Congratulations.

It's been about six months the last time I saw any, but if my memory serves me right, I do believe that is grass.  Haven't seen any of that since October...
 

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Beartooth Regular
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Thanks for the compliments!
Ravenwolf, I'd say go for it! I've finished two stocks with the Tru-Oil now and I really like it. Stripping the old finish off was a pain on the Rem 700 stock I did because of the "plastic" finish they use, but I just sanded the finish off the Marlin. It seems the key to good results is what you do between removing the old finish and applying the Tru-Oil. I wet the stock lightly and let it dry to raise the grain, then steel wooled it smooth. I did this a few times, then I just kept rubbing with the steel wool until the wood itself was smooooth. The wood seems to take on a sheen after a while.
   Then applying the Tru-Oil finish is almost too easy. I just put a little on the stock then rubbed it in with my fingers until it "rubbed in" all it was going to, then I took a shop cloth and rubbed with that until it glows. Let it dry for several hours or overnight, then do it again. And again, and again...
Sounds really involved, but it only takes about 10 minutes per application, the rest of the time it is just set aside drying. Looks much better than any polyurethane type finishes. Good luck! I'm sure it will turn out great!     IDShooter
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Looks good!

Tru-oil is my favorite as well.
 

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Wow! Looks super.  You've just given me another project (just what I needed).  I've wanted to do the same to my Marlin .35 Rem for a while.  My forearm is attached with a barrel band.  Tried to get it off awhile back but couldn't without risk of scratching the barrel.  It seems to be a very tight fit and I was being VERY careful.  After the screw is removed does anybody have any pointers on how to remove that barrel band without buggering up the blueing?  The rifle is quite accurate......but has anyone had any experience messing around with the barrel bedding on these guns.   I know, if it ain't broke don't fix it.  I'm a notorious tinkerer, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey there, not only is she purty, she's a shooter! Shot this group this morning after zeroing in the Lyman receiver sight. Range 100 yds, bullet cast from Lyman 31141 mold, enough H4895 to get 2200fps.               IDShooter
 

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I have a dumb question.  I had a friend carve my marlin 45/70.  He put a black bear on one side and a bison on the other.  Did a great job too.  But now I'd like to re-finish the stocks but I can't figure out how to get the forearm off!  Help!
BTW, here's a photo of how it looks right now.
                 Lefty


http://www.fototime.com/9FC97B4316B0DD4/standard.jpg
 

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Beartooth Regular
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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Lefty,
     I'm going to assume that the 1895 dissassembles in the same manner as my 336A. Of course the buttstock is removed by taking out the screw that runs down through the tang, then pulling straight back on the stock. The forend is a bit trickier, but not much once you know how.
    Take out the screws on each side of the forend cap. (They screw into a little hanger that is dovetailed to the underside of the barrel) Then, take out the screw that holds the front of the magazine tube to the barrel - in your photo this looks like it doubles as a sling stud? This is different than mine. But in any case, once you get the front of the mag tube loose you'll have room to slide the forend cap off the front. Then pull the forend straight foreward away from the receiver. Viola! Things to watch out for- The magazine tube has a compressed spring inside. When you take the screw out that holds it to the barrel the little cap at the end may want to come out and/or the whole magazine tube will try to spring away from the receiver. Save your pieces!   Good luck, let me know if you still have questions.  IDShooter
 

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IDShooter,
Thanks for the info.  I think I'll be able to get it now.
I'll post a picture when it's done so you can see what you and I did.
                           Lefty
 

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Sorry guys to resurrect this sleeping topic but i have a couple of questions for ID , and im sure no one will object to looking at the superb job ID on this stock.

You mentioned this 336A was 70's-80's ? My reason for asking is i see the new 336A has a full mag tube not the 3/4 length like your rifle, when did this change ?

Also i see modern Marlins have checkered wood work, and the older models did'nt when did this change ?

What is the "exact" designation of this type ? Does it differ from the new designation ?

You see i fancy a Marlin .30-30 but i do not like the new style, i prefer the shorter mag tube and no checkering, just think they look better !

Regards Englander
 

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Beartooth Regular
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Discussion Starter #14
Englander,
     Unfortunately Marlin doesn't currently make the short magazine tube version of their 336. I don't remember the exact dates, but the "original" 336A's were made in the 50's and 60's, then they were briefly resurrected from 1977-1981 or so. These rifles all had the long 24" barrel and short magazine tube but differed somewhat in stock profile - Basically some were fatter than others and some had grip caps. The older versions have 4 groove rifling while the second production run has Microgroove rifling.
    The current 336A is a bastardization in my opinion, having nothing in common with original 336A's except the action. It is now a cheaper version of the basic 336 and I have no idea why they used the 336A designation.
    Sorry to be imprecise about the dates, but essentially you will need to look for a 1981 or prior rifle to get the configuration you want. It is worth it; this rifle hold steadier for me than any other gun I own. It has perfect balance and bringing it to the shoulder aligns the sights precisely for a person of my build. And every one I've ever heard of has been very accurate.  Hope you are successful in your search! ID
 
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