New Tikka T3

10172 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Sus Scrofa, Jun 19, 2015

Joce

Discussion Starter · Jun 18, 2015

Hi,
New here. New shooter. Bought a new Tikka T3. Am I in the right topic? Cleaning and care part of training?

Question: what do I really need for a cleaning kit? Premade kit? Build my own? Full rod, compact pieced rod, does it matter? What jags? Brushes?

Found a lot of stuff out there. Some good but some I'm sure is junk. Don't want to risk damaging my barrel or anything. Don't want it exploding on me.

Thanks everyone!

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Sus Scrofa

· #2 · Jun 18, 2015

Revisit the shop you purchased the Tikka from (great rifle by the way) and they should have what you require.
I would have thought they would have asked anyway ...few more dollars in the till

Many different approaches to cleaning but initially if this is a brand new rifle then buy a couple of boxes of shells and go to the range. Fire five shots ..run the patches through the barrel, wet patch ..dry patch, with a final two dry patches as you must NEVER fire your rifle with oil or cleaning fluid in the barrel. It MUST be perfectly dry.
Five more shots and same again and personally I do this for a full twenty rounds. IMPORTANT allow the barrel to fully go cold between sets.
Second box use to get used to your rifle shooting three ...cool down ....three ...cool down and the final five to zero and then leave as is with your barrel fouled.
If you clean the barrel at this point you will/should fire a couple of shots to foul the barrel again as it can make a big difference in where the rifle prints.

OK, now you will, without doubt, get another dozen different ideas

What calibre ????

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MontyF

· #3 · Jun 18, 2015

First off I'd highly recommend a bore guide.

Rods; use a one piece rod. I've have a bunch of different brands but my favorite is the Dewey (carbon fiber?). Anyway it has a ball bearing handle and the rod will flex but not bend or damage the bore.

Solvents: Take your pick. There are a bunch of them on the market. I have Shooter's Choice, Butch's Bore Shine, Sweets 7.62 and J-B cleaning compound. Used a bunch of others in the past and there is a lot I haven't tried.

Brushes: Use the solid brass type, not the ones with the twisted steel wire. My cleaning box has Pro-Shot brushes in it. Consider the brushes an expendable item. When they get loose in the bore toss them or use 'em on a rifle with the next smaller bore.

Patches: Don't have a preference there. Just pick something that's a tight fit on the jag in your bore.

Also pick up an aerosol can of Break Free CLP. I have Remoil handy wipes for going over the gun to remove fingerprints after handling. One of those will last a long time if you return it to a baggie after using it.
.

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Joce

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 18, 2015

Sus Scrofa said:
Revisit the shop you purchased the Tikka from (great rifle by the way) and they should have what you require.
I would have thought they would have asked anyway ...few more dollars in the till
Many different approaches to cleaning but initially if this is a brand new rifle then buy a couple of boxes of shells and go to the range. Fire five shots ..run the patches through the barrel, wet patch ..dry patch, with a final two dry patches as you must NEVER fire your rifle with oil or cleaning fluid in the barrel. It MUST be perfectly dry.
Five more shots and same again and personally I do this for a full twenty rounds. IMPORTANT allow the barrel to fully go cold between sets.
Second box use to get used to your rifle shooting three ...cool down ....three ...cool down and the final five to zero and then leave as is with your barrel fouled.
If you clean the barrel at this point you will/should fire a couple of shots to foul the barrel again as it can make a big difference in where the rifle prints.

OK, now you will, without doubt, get another dozen different ideas

What calibre ????

Hi. Thanks for the advice. It's quite accurate on what the salesman said to do. He said to clean before firing as there is some oil in the barrel when sold. He had many many different kinds of kits but he didn't want to tell me which direction to go. I respect that. A full kit? Make my own kit? Which brand of kit? what type of rod to stay away from? It's a 30-06. Although I'm sure this won't be the last firearm I buy I don't think purchasing except for all calm and gauges would be practical unless the price is right and its cheaper than building my own kit.

lots to learn and lots to practice but the last thing I want to do is scratch up my barrel with a cheap made rod.

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MontyF

· #5 · Jun 18, 2015

Didn't notice you are new here...... Welcome to the shooters forum!

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Joce

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 18, 2015

MontyF said:
Didn't notice you are new here...... Welcome to the shooters forum!

Thanks MontyF for the welcome! The advice is great. I'll be looking cleaning supplies this week.

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Triple Se7en

· #7 · Jun 18, 2015

This is a good place for help. But if you desire to get more "personal" with your Tikka, go ask questions where everyone owns Tikkas.
Link to Tikka messagebord >... Tikka Shooters | Dedicated To Tikka Owners And Their Passion!

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MikeG

· #8 · Jun 18, 2015

A one-piece rod, appropriate sized jag and brushes, some patch material and solvent. It's not too complicated.

The old standbys of Hoppes #9, etc., will work just fine on your rifle. There are a dizzying array of cleaning products anymore and sometimes it will make your head hurt to contemplate them all. But I suspect most of them work just great, if you follow the directions on the label.

Oh and I like have a cradle or fixture to hold rifles when cleaning them. Personal preference....

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opus

· #9 · Jun 18, 2015 (Edited)

Great rifle. I have a T3 hunter in 270WSM that is superbly accurate. I think a one piece rod and cleaning from the breech end of the rifle will serve you well. A kit isn't necessary at all and your thoughts on cleaning may change over time. The bore on my T3 is very smooth and easy to clean. If you are like most of us you will end up with a cornucopia of cleaning supplies over time.

Happy shooting
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Dom

· #10 · Jun 18, 2015 (Edited)

Every shooting session place a little high pressure ( wheel bearing grease works great ) grease on the back side of the locking lugs. Not a lot just enough so the metal here is not dry. This prevents a dry metal to metal contact. Dry mica also will work mixed with a little light oil. Don't over do it just a little. Also hello & best to you on your new rifle. "Remember sight picture & trigger squeeze".

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Joce

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 19, 2015

Wow, I picked the right forum website. Thanks for all the great advice. Thanks "Triple" for the invite.

I've decided on getting a bore guide. I think they're all the same, no? Getting a tipton. One piece carbon rod. The hopps brand solvents and oils.

I've made my own cradle from some scrap wood I had, glued foam to the cradles. And glued a plastic parts organiser tray on it. That saved me $50.

Bought a new membership to a shooting range. Plenty of time to practice before hunting season. Thanks everyone!!!

Joce

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MontyF

· #12 · Jun 19, 2015

Joce said:
I've decided on getting a bore guide. I think they're all the same, no? Getting a tipton. One piece carbon rod.

I owe you an apology. Tipton was the rod I was thinking of so you got the right one after all.

Although bore guides have a wide range of applications, make sure the one you buy will work with your rifle..

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Sus Scrofa

· #13 · Jun 19, 2015

Well done, keep us posted how it shoots and make sure you have lots of fun

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