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· Registered
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen the light and it looked like a 500 watt shoplight in my face.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->

Some polymer left, super black hawk and redhawk in stainless and 44 magnum coming in this week.

I will not be reloading till later this year, looking like winter after this expenditure.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  But what an expenditure.  <!--emo&:D--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'><!--endemo-->  

I have researched this firelapping and reaming of the cylinders.  I also can tell you I would rather not mess with these for months.

Is there any time frame when it is best to firelap a barrel.  I figure if I get the will to mess with doing the barrel the cylinder gets done at the same time.

And with factory loads, all at least partially jacketed at the bottom, what should I look for besides bad groups.  I have wad cutters as well as lots of jhp in a couple different weights.  Nothing majorly expensive but a case and a half of variety.

I know if the shell seems to not want to come out that might mean a little polishing would help in the cylinder.

For a newbie who is used to used rugers in the gp series in 357 magnum what should I look for?

For those who remember, I asked about one or the other of the above firearms, as you can see I suck at making decisions.  From jan. to now I talked myself into both.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  But I blame it on me and myself, I had nothing to do with it.  

I read old posts and feel I have an ok grasp on this, but is there an article or something that explains this really really well?

· The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
39,009 Posts
Sounds like fun!

Don't worry about the lapping, cylinders, etc., right now unless you have a serious problem.

Stick with good quality ammo to start with (NOT the cheap lead bullet reloads - those will foul your barrel most severely and make you hate lead bullets).

For light loads you'll have no problem with .44 Specials.

As an experienced .357 shooter you'll be able to step up to the .44's without any problem, I think.  Both of those guns are reasonably heavy so recoil even with full loads should not be too severe.

Save your brass.  If you can't afford to buy reloading equipment right now, ask around, you might find a friend with the right equipment and all you have to do is buy dies and components.  Do the math, if you can do that to start with, you'll recover the cost of the dies very quickly.

For practice loads you can get away with using dippers and a moderate charge of fast-burning powder, like Unique or Clays or AA#2, as long as you have someone verify the dippers on a good scale.  Then all you really need is a press, dies, loading block, and perhaps a priming tool if the press doesn't come with one.  Good set of carbide dies is around $30 and this is near the price of a box of (good) ammo.

What you want is a reload like a 200 to 240 grain bullet, in the 800 - 1,000fps range.  This will be very mild in either of those guns.

Shoot a lot, start with jacketed bullets, and when you get pretty comfortable with the gun, you can do more advanced reloading, move up to full power, etc.  You need to get your shooting technique down before you can even make the determination if the gun needs any more work.

Make sense?

· Registered
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sadly no one I know has reloading stuff within an acceptable distance.

I avoid reloads or handloads I did not do.  No cheap savings with the danger those present.

I am somewhat time limited these days, finally working a bit again.  So for now it is factory loads, and of course the brass gets saved.  I do not buy anything that does not allow me to reload it in 44 magnum.

I plan to get a dillion setup that can do pistol and rifle ammo this winter.  I will look into some of what you mentioned, but off hand I think I will wait and get one setup.  I already have the case and half of ammo, I have a lever action in 44 magnum and have been planning on this for a bit, so ammo gets bought here and there and slowly builds up.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  

I just wanted to tell everyone and see what their opinions are on the different guns needing lapping and what not.

Mostly I wanted to tell everyone.  <!--emo&:D--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'><!--endemo-->  At least I am sorta honest.

· Banned
75 Posts
Blackhawks are way fun (mine's in .41mag), and there is a SS SuperBH in .44 mag w 5.5" bbl that I've got my eye on, BUT they also just got in a used .44 Redhawk, ported, with trigger job, at the local shop.
Waaah. I want 'em both!

My first loader was a Lee handpress ($16 for those or the simple press), plus a set of dies for $22 through Midway.
I have a RCBS Rockchucker press now, but I still use that Lee handpress plenty!
Perfect for loading while watching TV with my wife.

· "Bad Joke Friday" Dan (moderator emeritus)
7,856 Posts

I think you'll find that the Ruger 44mag cylinders, in either blackhawk or redhawk will not need reaming. It's the Ruger .45LC throats that are infamous for being undersized.

If the ammo you referenced is jacketed, any barrel constriction will not impact your accuracy as much as it's a little more foregiving. If the ammo is cast, then you may well have leading and accuracy problems. The firelapping is relatively cheap. Beartooth soft oversize bullets, lapping compound and steel plates wouldn't set you back very much and do the job very nicely. But your stainless material does take significantly more rounds to get the job done.

Keep us informed as you advance in your experience with the new revolvers.


· Registered
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey, I like hearing things come already done for me from the factory.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  Here I was thinking they all could use some major work, well major in that a noticable difference would occur with minor work.

I have no completely lead stuff for the 44 magnum.  Never seen any when buying ammo actually.  So it sounds like until I get into reloading with lots of lead, and possably casting my own I need to shoot the thing and not concern myself about firelapping.

I will happily keep you updated as I am still trying to figure out how different it is going to feel to have the ruger redhawk grip and the super black hawk grip being shot in the same day.  

Thanks for the replies, I am off to play.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  No the new guns have not shown up yet.

· Registered
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got em both and been using em both a lot.

Decided I like the redhawk more, but that single action is so simple everyone needs one.  

Started off with some 44 specials, and they were easy.  Rugers are heavy enough the 240 grain jhp that is common is not bad at all to shoot.  Already got a box of those 300 grain hornady bullets too, I am impressed with what rugers can do.  My gunshop figured I should just get a case of ammo in and he gave me a price break on it.  <!--emo&:)--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'><!--endemo-->  All reloadable brass once I empty the powder and bullet out.

Just shooting them now and noticing that they both are a bit different due to the grip shape.  The redhawk double action is getting better, and so am I.

I appreciate the advice and will be doing some research in the reloading section of this board.

And as some one mentioned, it is taking a little bit to get a routine standard down for shooting these.  Where you can fudge the hold with a 9mm glock, no fudge room on these.  

Figured you might like an update and I wanted to say thanks again for the free advice.  It was well worth what I paid for it.  <!--emo&:D--><img src="" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'><!--endemo-->
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