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I am trying to reload for a 300wsm some of the cases are brass and some nickel can anyone give me some advise on why the brass will chamber in the gun but the nickel will not.I have full lenght resized both in the same die.
nickel/brass 300wsm
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Hi:
The nickel cases aren't springing back as much after firing as the brass cases, but your die should resize them enough to chamber. First thing I'd check is press springing. Nickel's harder to resize, so make sure there's no gap between the shell holder and the die when your press ram is at top dead centre. Put a light behind it and if you see any light between the shellholder and die, turn the die in another 1/8 turn.
If that's not the problem, your die is oversize or your chamber is undersize. Next question, is it diameter or length? Remove the decapping pin from your die and put a .004" feeler gauge under the case in the shellholder and try it. If that doesn't do it, you need a die that matches your chamber.
What make of die and rifle have you got?
Bye
Jack
The nickel cases aren't springing back as much after firing as the brass cases, but your die should resize them enough to chamber. First thing I'd check is press springing. Nickel's harder to resize, so make sure there's no gap between the shell holder and the die when your press ram is at top dead centre. Put a light behind it and if you see any light between the shellholder and die, turn the die in another 1/8 turn.
If that's not the problem, your die is oversize or your chamber is undersize. Next question, is it diameter or length? Remove the decapping pin from your die and put a .004" feeler gauge under the case in the shellholder and try it. If that doesn't do it, you need a die that matches your chamber.
What make of die and rifle have you got?
Bye
Jack
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Hi, Foersterhunter:
This was a common problem with Savage 110s, guess it still is. On most guns, the barrel is screwed on tight and the headspace is measured. If it's too short, they cut it deeper and measure again. On a Savage, they screw the barrel down snug on a headspace gauge, tighten the barrel nut and they're done. Sometimes they get it too tight.
A young friend has an early 110L in .270. We decap with a universal die, tumble clean, then resize everything with a .006" feeler gauge under the case with the decapping pin out. It took a while and a phone call to RCBS to sort it out.
Since your gun is likely still under warrenty, I'd be inclined to send it in for a fix. You could get stuck with some factory ammo you can't chamber out at West Gopherhole, Saskatchewan (been there). Or you could grind .006" off the die or shellholder. Shellholders are cheaper. An engine rebuilder can take off the exact amount off with an old valve grinder.
Bye
Jack
This was a common problem with Savage 110s, guess it still is. On most guns, the barrel is screwed on tight and the headspace is measured. If it's too short, they cut it deeper and measure again. On a Savage, they screw the barrel down snug on a headspace gauge, tighten the barrel nut and they're done. Sometimes they get it too tight.
A young friend has an early 110L in .270. We decap with a universal die, tumble clean, then resize everything with a .006" feeler gauge under the case with the decapping pin out. It took a while and a phone call to RCBS to sort it out.
Since your gun is likely still under warrenty, I'd be inclined to send it in for a fix. You could get stuck with some factory ammo you can't chamber out at West Gopherhole, Saskatchewan (been there). Or you could grind .006" off the die or shellholder. Shellholders are cheaper. An engine rebuilder can take off the exact amount off with an old valve grinder.
Bye
Jack
Try some factory ammo and see if it uniformly chambers. If it does, grind down one shell holder to use just with the nickel plated brass. You can do this yourself by simply rubbing it on fine emory paper on a flat hard surface and miking it as you go. Try a couple sized cases at -.003 and then size a case every minute or so until it chambers well. The fit you get will actually be a virtue.
The Savage lock ring is the best headspacing technology out there, and adds remarkable rigidity to the first 6 inches of the barrel. For perfect headspace, you can back off the lock ring and barrel, chamber a sized case and screw in the bbl until you get the slight pressure on the case. Tighten the lock ring and you are done. Changing bbls is just as easy. Of course, you need to use optic sights and have access to the lock ring tool and a bbl vise.
I have the same rifle in 300 WSM and love it.Good luck!
The Savage lock ring is the best headspacing technology out there, and adds remarkable rigidity to the first 6 inches of the barrel. For perfect headspace, you can back off the lock ring and barrel, chamber a sized case and screw in the bbl until you get the slight pressure on the case. Tighten the lock ring and you are done. Changing bbls is just as easy. Of course, you need to use optic sights and have access to the lock ring tool and a bbl vise.
I have the same rifle in 300 WSM and love it.Good luck!
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