I would like to hear your opinions on these inexpensive American made and out of production guns. Are they worth their modest cost, or total junk? Mainly wondering about their .22s.
You mention the "nylon block" at the top of the "mainspring strut". My nylon block is cracked. Do you know of a source for a replacement ? Thank you, RayJack Monteith said:Hi, Andy:
The first handgun I shot was a 922, back in the late `50s. I've got a 929 Sidekick now. They aren't bad at the right price. The 929's trigger pull is a bit rough and heavy in single action but I've seen worse in much more expensive guns. The double action pull is too heavy, period. The extractor star don't quite line up with the chambers and extracting takes a hard push on the rod with 9 loaded. The 922 did not have that problem. Accuracy is under 3" at 25 yards with ammo it likes, but 8" with one type it didn't.
Supposedly cutting a couple of coils off the mainspring fixes the double action pull, but I'm not doing that until I get a spare spring. Apparently the nylon block that's on the top end of the mainspring strut tends to break. It easy to check. Take the grips off, cock it, stick a paper clip though the hole in the bottom end of the strut, decock, and wiggle the strut and mainspring out.
Jack, Thanks for directing me to NUMRICH parts. I'm looking forward to getting the old "929 Sidekick" back on the range!Jack Monteith said:Gunparts (Numrich) lists them.
I, too, have replaced the nylon block in my friend's H&R. Was surprised to find that material used in an area that takes so much stress.unclenick said:Other than that Nylon block, I think most of the troubles with more modern H&R's were due to sloppy manufacturing. If you got a good one, hang on to it and keep it working.
Marshal Kane said:I, too, have replaced the nylon block in my friend's H&R. Was surprised to find that material used in an area that takes so much stress.
What an education! Thanks!!ribbonstone said:Been inside several of the H&R's...if yours hasn't busted that nylon block, it will. Design uses this shaped nylon block to supply the hammer rebound. Back of the hammer is shaped in a kind of a shallow, wide "V"...bolck fits into that "V"...bears on teh top while the hammer is being propelled forward, then transfers to the bottom to pull it back (rebound). Holds up pretty well, but nylon tends to get brittle with age.
The older ones have the same design, but use a metal block...they tend to break off the shaft rather than just crack. Go back farther and you'll fins som that ran without a block at all (the mainspring strut was longer, bent at the end, and shaped into a ball...the ltitle ball fit in a detent on the back of the hammer).
I have fixed them by making a new blck out of metal, drilling the block for the mainspring strut, and silver soldering it together. Have fixed others by making a new strut, ending in a ball (make it larger than the old style), and drilling the back of the ahmmer for a detent for that ball. If you make the ball end larger and with the detent placed right, will retain the rebound feature of the hammer.
Long as I'm at it, there is one other place where the H&R's break. The hand is powered by a tiny flat spring that is attached to the hand. Diagnostic for this is that the revolver will revolve when pointed DOWN (gravity doing some of that spring's work)...occasionally revolve when pointed level...and won't revolve when pointed up.
Really is a part you should hunt up for replacement (usually the hand itself is pretty wron by the tine the spring breaks)...but if you just have to, can make a tiny spring and replace the busted one.