[Alan]

I've put a couple of light scratches into my Redhawk that I'd like to buff out.  It seems James wrote something up on this awhile back but I can't find the info in the archives.

What is the procedure?

 

[Contender]

Alan,

First you take a bench grinder............. just kidding.


How deep are the scratches?

I had purchased a used S&W 66 a number of years back that had some dings in the trigger guard from holster carry. These were deep enough that I lightly filed down the area with the dings until they were virtually gone with a jeweler's file. Then I worked down progressively finer grades of sandpaper to shape somewhat. Then I used a blending pad to finish the job to match the sheen of the rest of the gun's finish. Came out really well.

Stay away from any power type grinding/sanding equipment as it can remove metal too fast. Also be careful not to overly polish the area so it is shinier than the rest of the gun.

A blending pad is basically a scotchbrite type pad that Brownells sells. They are available in a set with like three coarsenesses I think also.

Actually this is why I like stainless because it allows surface repair. Blueing is just a coat of paint.

Just take your time and you should have no trouble getting the scratches out.

If they are really fine scratches, you may be able to get away with using some of the Red polishing compound for autos.

Have Fun,




(Edited by Contender at 5:29 pm on July 9, 2001)

 

[Alan]

Gracias -

The dang bench grinder is what put the scratches there in the first place!

Just kidding  :biggrin:

 

[MattC]

I sent my Ruger SRH in for repair in April, they sent it back early, but in cosmetically bad shape.  I think they forgot to send it through the polishing step cause it was brand new last December anf looked like asolute heck when it was returned.  I had some 1500 grit sandpaper I use to sharpen chisels and plan blades.  After two nights in front of the TV polishing away I got it looking new again.  The finish left by 1500 grit is about what they leave the factory with.  Actually about what the frame leaves the factory with, the barrel is much coarser.  I finished it off with flitz.  And no, it doesn't blind you, it looks about like it did when I bougt it.  

Thin paper is hard to find, you can't get it at home Depot.  Sometimes auto stores have it and woodworking catalogs.  

   

 

[Alan]

Morning Matt -

Did you "dry rub" your pistol or use a light oil?  A local auto store carries 1500 grit.  I removed the scratches with a Scotch Bright pad but I'd like to blend the surface a little better...sounds like the 1500 is the answer.

 

[MattC]

Alan:  I used it "dry"  Try to follow the existing scratch pattern. ie, around the the cylinder and barrel, and straight across the trigger guard.

Good Luck!  

 

[pourboy]

You can go to an auto parts store that offers body   shop supplies and get sanding sponges made by 3M. These come in various grits, some as fine as 1500 grit. I usually use 400 or 600 to remove scratches. Then finish up with 1000, then 1200 and finally 1500 if you want a high gloss. I've been threatening for years to treat all my stainless guns to a medium wire brushed finish. If they get scratched, I'd just hit them with the wire wheel again to touch up. Maybe some day I'll actually do it.

 

[Alan]

Good idea PB - thanks!

 

[Wasatch Pete]

Alan, go to a autobody supply store. Ask for 3M #02021 - 1,000x,#02022 - 1,200x,#02023 - 1,5oox,#02044 - 2,000x. cost about .60-.75 cents each. Works good.....