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Do you intuitively trust (instead of knowing or believing) Quick Detach Mounts to Return to Zero?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 3 100.0%
  • Not Worried about it

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Don't care, I'd never touch them

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I make custom bases for Talley Rings. I can count on about 25% increase in group size if the scope is dismounted and re-mounted between shots. All commercial systems I've tried are considerable worse than that...300% not uncommon.
 

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Buy more guns to fit your excess of scopes. Simple math tells the story and how uncommonly difficult it is to switch scopes without changing zero and have a REAL zero. A Zebra zero is fine, if he's not too far.
Consider all those that have come before--The slick dovetails of the M-S and Griffin and Howe, the rotary locks and hand-fit feet of claw mounts, the double vee block system of the Kuarsky Bros, Weaver clamps, Redfield rotary dovetails and adjustable dovetail Tallys. They all work but not to varmint shooting standards.
The weight and length of the scope affects zero.

The Tally system as seen above is augmented by a peep sight that fits in the rear mount in case a scope is damaged the hunt is saved.
 

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Point of impact changes increases group size, sometimes in a string, sometimes in two 'clumps. It shows how close to identical the scope is remounted between shots.
Many shoot a group, remove and replace and shoot another group. It does the same thing with twice the ammo.
 

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This is where a known quantity BR rifle is handy as a test bed. If you can produce a .300 group +/-.050 every time, then different mounting systems can be tried and tested.
QD scopes are a cool factor and can work in the hunting field but not the varmint patch. I come by that by extensive experimentation.
"Repeatability" in scope mounting is not nearly as easy as you might imagine. A BR rifle puts a numerical figure on that repeatability. Put an old set of Swing-off or Pivot Weavers and try a group by simply unlatching the scope between shots. .3MOA can turn into 6MOA in two shots....but its close enough to kill a deer.
 
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Lenard Brownell was a QD scope with back-up sights guy from the very beginning. Ruger scope rings is his invention but he made them terribly difficult to mount by making the rings split vertically. that was changed with the first batch of flat bolt 77s and #1s but the basic clamping of the rings remains the same. He griped about it but thought it was probably the best they could do with investment casting. The good thing about the Ruger system is that one ring and mount fits all recoil levels. They work on 22 Hornets and .416 Rigby's alike. Light and strong beats 100% repeatability.
I like and use Talley rings and bases because I know Dave Talley, remember his first vision for a business and support it.
The problem with Talley mounts, and all others, is they have to depend on the gun companies to keep dimensions the same. Most companies only polish the tops of actions. How much they're polished determines how close the scope will be when it's mounted.
Making custom mounts while ON the action takes all the error from scope mounting. Sit a brand new scope in a custom mount gun and the bullet hits within an inch at 100 yards of 'zero'. Then, you're free to make your final corrections.
I have little use for changing scopes and want them as much a part of the rifle as the barrel.
Conetrol rings are the lightest in the world, but all steel and will take all the recoil you want to give.
 

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Lapping scope rings shows you how far off the mounts are from being perfectly straight. Lapping rings saves scope finishes mostly and a good thing to do.
 

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What percentage of gunsmiths?! ;)

"Stress" anywhere in a rifle-sight combo is detrimental to accuracy. Lapping scope rings goes a long way towards making mounting as stress free as possible. There are VERY few rifle receivers that are truly straight in all dimensions and any variation of dimensions affects how the scope mounts fit. 'Glass bedding' of scope mounts can correct them and some guns need it.
 

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Mounting scopes on guns that aren't quite right as a good place for a collimator. If you can change POI by loosening a ring screw, you KNOW something ain't right! A lapping bar tells you where it's not right. When the lapping bar is touching the rings evenly, it is right.

For those that don't know--- 'Lapping' the rings is NOT to remove the machine marks, its to mark the high places. What's not high is low. You want the high places to be evenly distributed in both rings. The lap doesn't straighten a bad mounting job, it just identifies it.
 

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Glass bedding the scope tube is the sure cure for heavy recoiling rifles displacing heavy scopes. Just like drag slicks have the most traction, so does 100% contact scopes.
(I glass bed a piece of one inch hydraulic chrome shafting instead of the scope, though.)
 

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I cringe when I hear of eternity LocTite and impact screwdrivers to install scope mounts. The secret is in the fit, not the torque and concrete. Level two-piece mounts with each other and glass them straight (with release agent). Lap the rings when mounted to make sure they're straight and level. Clean everything really well, wipe on just enough oil to take the 'dusty' of the dry metal and carefully assemble. Crunching noises coming from the scope means you forgot to check something! :eek:
 

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Fifteen thou is pretty tight. What I'm talking about are the M98s with the clip guide ground off with a body grinder. Nothing fits it. If the front ring is pretty straight with the bore, fill the gap in the back with black epoxy. When it's set, the mount is straight and can be cinched down without bending.
Japs are low on the front ring if they've been ground. Reverse the index surface and do the same thing.

If you want a 15MOA one piece, shim the back and glass both ends. It makes a no bend mount with an angle to it. The green stuff would probably work well on those.

Green bluing is somehow contradictory, don't you think. :)
Why are black berries red when they're green?
 
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