I am having problems resizing 300 winmag and 325 wsm cases that have previously been fired. I lube inside and outside cases. The cases start to stick in the die about 1/2 inch before case has been fully inserted into die. A lot of screetching and I ruined my 325 wsm die. New cases of both calibers process smoothly in their respeciive dies. Seems the used cases have expanded considerably as closer to the head. Any comments, suggestions, or recommendations appreciated.
Problem with 300 WINMag and 325 WSM sticking in die
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90 Posts
You could send 5 spent casing to Lee and get dies cut specifically for your chamber.
Here is the pertinent info:
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/index.cgi
Its not cheap, but might be less expensive than re-chambering the rifle.
Here is the pertinent info:
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/index.cgi
Its not cheap, but might be less expensive than re-chambering the rifle.
NKP,
Welcome to ShootersForum! As a wise old friend often said, "Rules are simple, be nice and join in."
The situation you describe is unusual, in my experience. If you had one rifle with an exceptionally large chamber, I could buy that, but the odds of having two rifles like that are extremely low. My guess is you're doing something wrong in how you're resizing the cases.
Let's just stick with the 325WSM, for now. You state that you don't have any problem sizing them before they've been fired, so we know the dies aren't too small. The first thing you should do is measure the case right about where you notice they are sticking in the die, after they've been fired. Measure the same case before and after you shoot it. If you will reply here with the numbers you get, before and after, we'll be able to help you figure out if the case really is expanding too much. To be honest, that is highly unlikely.
Next concern I have is that you say you lubed the cases "inside and out". Unless you're spraying them with a lubricant from a can, that shouldn't be happening. If you're using a standard case lube pad, the only two things you should do is run a nylon bristle-brush in and out of the neck of the case, and then lube the case body only! By far, the most common cause of difficult resizing of cases, is excessive case lube, especially if it builds up in the die. Did you, by any chance, notice this problem got worse after the first 4 or 5 cases you resized? When it comes to case lube, less is often more. Another question is, do any of your resized cases have little "dimples", especially around the shoulder of the case?
Also, be aware that resizing the case should not be "easy", especially the last inch or so, as the ram goes up, and the last inch or so, as the case comes back out of the die, and the inside neck dimension is formed. You are expanding and contracting metal, so some effort is going to be involved.
Finally, how have you determined that your 325 die is ruined? That's not an easy thing to do, in a short period of time, unless your cases were exceptionally dirty when you resized them. Is there a case stuck in it, now?
The more of these questions you can reply to, the better we'll be able to help you figure out what is going wrong, and correct it. Hope to hear back from you, soon.
Jason
Welcome to ShootersForum! As a wise old friend often said, "Rules are simple, be nice and join in."
The situation you describe is unusual, in my experience. If you had one rifle with an exceptionally large chamber, I could buy that, but the odds of having two rifles like that are extremely low. My guess is you're doing something wrong in how you're resizing the cases.
Let's just stick with the 325WSM, for now. You state that you don't have any problem sizing them before they've been fired, so we know the dies aren't too small. The first thing you should do is measure the case right about where you notice they are sticking in the die, after they've been fired. Measure the same case before and after you shoot it. If you will reply here with the numbers you get, before and after, we'll be able to help you figure out if the case really is expanding too much. To be honest, that is highly unlikely.
Next concern I have is that you say you lubed the cases "inside and out". Unless you're spraying them with a lubricant from a can, that shouldn't be happening. If you're using a standard case lube pad, the only two things you should do is run a nylon bristle-brush in and out of the neck of the case, and then lube the case body only! By far, the most common cause of difficult resizing of cases, is excessive case lube, especially if it builds up in the die. Did you, by any chance, notice this problem got worse after the first 4 or 5 cases you resized? When it comes to case lube, less is often more. Another question is, do any of your resized cases have little "dimples", especially around the shoulder of the case?
Also, be aware that resizing the case should not be "easy", especially the last inch or so, as the ram goes up, and the last inch or so, as the case comes back out of the die, and the inside neck dimension is formed. You are expanding and contracting metal, so some effort is going to be involved.
Finally, how have you determined that your 325 die is ruined? That's not an easy thing to do, in a short period of time, unless your cases were exceptionally dirty when you resized them. Is there a case stuck in it, now?
The more of these questions you can reply to, the better we'll be able to help you figure out what is going wrong, and correct it. Hope to hear back from you, soon.
Jason
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863 Posts
" A lot of screetching and I ruined my 325 wsm die. New cases of both calibers process smoothly in their respeciive dies."
Cases screetch and stick in FL dies for one reason only; improper lubing. New cases come undersized so there is nothing for the die to do but round the mouths a bit.
Cases screetch and stick in FL dies for one reason only; improper lubing. New cases come undersized so there is nothing for the die to do but round the mouths a bit.
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36,672 Posts
Same question as above. Scratch that - just get some Imperial Sizing Die wax and don't look back. Cases practically jump in and out of the die.
You could probably polish out the "ruined" die. It likely has some brass galled into the surface. They are pretty hard and difficult to really scratch, even if you try.
You could probably polish out the "ruined" die. It likely has some brass galled into the surface. They are pretty hard and difficult to really scratch, even if you try.
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264 Posts
To much is also my forst thought. Ive used to much before when I first started to reloed and Ive crushed the cases. After that I learned not to be very generous. Ive gone to using spray lube and dont have anymore problems. The best Ive found is Hornandy spray. Ill usually spray and then let dry for a couple of minutes and they usually slide up and down without any problem. Just something to try.
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583 Posts
I'm also going to guess too much lube. I had that problem early on in my reloading as well, not to say I'm super experienced at it now. My first manual said "generously lube the case" WRONG! ...so i glommed on a bunch of that RCBS goop. Jammed a couple of cases in so hard the middles were crushed and came here and posted my first question. Now I use the one-shot spray or I wear one rubber glove and just rub one or two fingers on the lube pad and lube the bottom half of the case by rubbing a very thin coat on with my fingers. no stuck cases since. If you have brass gauling in your die why not try some copper solvent and an over night soak to see if you can't clean it out before writing off the die. you might also make sure you've removed any trace of tumbling media from the cases if you are tumbling them that is. the extra grit wouldn't help the sizing operation any.
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273 Posts
0000 steel wool on a wooden dowel placed in a drill works good for cleaning up dies.
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Too much lube won't make them squeak. It will dent cases, however.
I repeat: Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I've used the Hornady spray-on stuff, I've used the Dillon, I've used other homemade odds and ends. NOTHING and I mean absolutely NOTHING comes close. A little tin will last for years, if not decades, which you sure as heck can't say about anything in an aerosol can.
Wrong lube, or not enough lube, but "too much" is unlikely to be the problem, as it was described. The other thing you can do with some of the lubes which will cause problems is not letting them dry first (applies to anything that comes in a can or pump bottle).
I repeat: Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I've used the Hornady spray-on stuff, I've used the Dillon, I've used other homemade odds and ends. NOTHING and I mean absolutely NOTHING comes close. A little tin will last for years, if not decades, which you sure as heck can't say about anything in an aerosol can.
Wrong lube, or not enough lube, but "too much" is unlikely to be the problem, as it was described. The other thing you can do with some of the lubes which will cause problems is not letting them dry first (applies to anything that comes in a can or pump bottle).
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Good suggestion!
Response to questions
Folks, first I would like to thank everyone for their prompt and knowledgable responses. Here is some of the data I have developed in response to your questions:
325, used cases are 0.005-0.007 inches greater in diameter than new case at point of sticking (new cases consistent at 0.545)
300 used cases are 0.006 - 0.008 inches greater in diameter than new cases at point of sticking (new cases consistent at 0.503)
when I said lube inside of case I meant 1 pass with the brush
when I said I broke the 325 die, I meant it literally, I incorrectly used the decapper rod to remove a case that was stuck in the die
I experimented a bit regarding the lube issue on new and used 300 cases. Unlubed new cases worked fine, unlubed and slightly lubed used cases still stuck about 0.5 inches above the rim
I have been reloading for about a year but less than 1/month
My lube practice has been 1 dot of lube on pad, rub lube into pad, and roll shells 2-3 times over pad. 1 pass with brush on interior. Shells do feel slightly greasy when reloading. RCBS lube pad, brush, lube.
Lee dies
Folks, first I would like to thank everyone for their prompt and knowledgable responses. Here is some of the data I have developed in response to your questions:
325, used cases are 0.005-0.007 inches greater in diameter than new case at point of sticking (new cases consistent at 0.545)
300 used cases are 0.006 - 0.008 inches greater in diameter than new cases at point of sticking (new cases consistent at 0.503)
when I said lube inside of case I meant 1 pass with the brush
when I said I broke the 325 die, I meant it literally, I incorrectly used the decapper rod to remove a case that was stuck in the die
I experimented a bit regarding the lube issue on new and used 300 cases. Unlubed new cases worked fine, unlubed and slightly lubed used cases still stuck about 0.5 inches above the rim
I have been reloading for about a year but less than 1/month
My lube practice has been 1 dot of lube on pad, rub lube into pad, and roll shells 2-3 times over pad. 1 pass with brush on interior. Shells do feel slightly greasy when reloading. RCBS lube pad, brush, lube.
Lee dies
Got away from sprays went to Hornady Unique in a sizing lube.
Rub a little on your fingers rub around the case rub a little in
the throat just your finger across it is good.
Do my 338 and five other calibers and no problems.
when threw working the brass tumble it and good to go...
Rub a little on your fingers rub around the case rub a little in
the throat just your finger across it is good.
Do my 338 and five other calibers and no problems.
when threw working the brass tumble it and good to go...
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6,280 Posts
I'm with MikeG on this, stop what you are doing and quit messing with any other lube and just use the Imperial Die Wax (some also has the Redding label, same stuff). Its the best stuff out there. I load a lot of ammo and I've used about 1/8 of my tin in 4 years. Its amazing stuff.
If you have enough lube, you should be able to resize easily. From your description, I would suggest that one dot on the pad is not enough. I stopped usiing lube pads a number of years ago as they just got too dirty over time. When loading a limited number of rifle cartridges, such as a box or 20 or 40, for hunting, then I use the RCBS lube and do it by hand. A large drop on the fingers and then roll the cases.
Why not try that and see how they resize when you have more than enough lube on the case.
For large numbers I have used RCBS spray lube with success.
A stuck case in the die does not ruin the die. Just get it out, clean the die and use it again.
I have loaded a lot of .300 Win Mag rounds without any problem with sizing. Since it is happening with both cartridges, it is most likely a lube procedure problem, not rifle or die.
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2,939 Posts
Just a question on lubing - I used to use various lubes including Lee and RCBS and a pad and I ocassionally got a case stuck. A few years back I went to a quick burst of Hornady One-Shot sprayed down from the top while holding the case. This gets the neck inside and out the and shoulders. Then with the spray that hit my finger tips, I just wipe the case to the bottom. I never get any cases stuck now, it works perfect. This being the case, why would anyone go to the trouble of wax or pad/tube lubricant? Am I missing something?
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583 Posts
Bird dog II: You might check the lable on the can of one shot. Most things that come out of the nossle of a spray can then evaporate quickly should not come in contact with your skin or be breathed in frequently. Just as a rule of thumb... Volatile Hydrocarbons are not good for your health. Doing this many thousand times over your reloading career has a cumulative affect. Pick one a little less toxic for this technique and make sure you have the ventalation working when using aerosols or beter yet outside. It will be more enjoyable in the long run not to kill the brain cells. Not to say one shot can't be used safely and effectively. when using it, I throw the cases in a plastic shopping bag spray into the bag then shake and repeat. Then wait for it to dry before using. The solvent in one shot, the wet part, is not what does the lubricating it's the solids left behind after it dries that works so good.
Ill bet the die maker will polish up for you and make it look just like new. Will cost postage one way and perhaps a few bucks beside.
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