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Discussion Starter #1
I just received a Cimarron Colt SAA replica. It’s the Evil Roy edition which means an action job was performed by the Cimarron gunsmiths. As part of that the case metal finish was removed from the side of the hammer and not it is more of a shinny finish vs case metal. I know I’m not going to get it to look like the frame but I’d like to get it dark. The one option I’m familiar with is Birchwood Casey Super Blue. I’m not a huge fan of it but it would work. What other options are available to me for DIY?
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IS the entire hammer shiny or just the sides polished? If the sides are polished and the edges cased, Super Blue will work. If the hammer is SS, it won't.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
IS the entire hammer shiny or just the sides polished? If the sides are polished and the edges cased, Super Blue will work. If the hammer is SS, it won't.
The top looks like it still has the case hardening on it.
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Color casing and bluing only work on carbon steels so your hammer will take cold blue.
 
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Color casing and bluing only work on carbon steels so your hammer will take cold blue.
I’m going to call them today abs make sure it’s not stainless. A couple videos made reference to it being stainless but I think they were wrong.
 

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Maybe the Cimarron gunsmiths may have an answer for you?
 

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Let us know.

I don't understand how removing case color from the side's of the hammer, has something to do with tuning it up/action job.

And, then, I don't understand why,... when they removed the case color,...why didn't they re-apply it, on this new, high end, pistol.

Maybe you can get answers as well, when/if, you get through to them? I'd really like to know?
 

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See if a magnet sticks to it.

I'm guessing there is some perception that there will be less friction if the hammer rubs against the frame while falling, but that is a guess on my part.

Or it is yet more shiny 'bling' to catch the eye of the gun owner. Or both.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
See if a magnet sticks to it.

I'm guessing there is some perception that there will be less friction if the hammer rubs against the frame while falling, but that is a guess on my part.

Or it is yet more shiny 'bling' to catch the eye of the gun owner. Or both.
Cimarron said it’s not SS. The magnet proved that. Why didn’t I think of that. Great idea. I’m anti bling. It’s it’s getting blued. I found a cool video of a guy using Mark Lee’s brown then Oxpho Blue to get a nice dark blue that will last better than Super Blue. I think I’ll try that.
 

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"Tuning" has to be visible, right?
You could try it. Just dab a spot and see what happens.

Here is a S&W M-58 that had been badly polished and blued. I shortened the barrel, round butted it, stoned everything flat, re-engraved the markings and rust blued it.
The hammer and trigger were 'browned' by rust blue solution but no boiling between cards. Casey's Plumb Brown is a rust blue solution.
 

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Not sure why it was removed (can only make guesses)...but know why it wasn't reapplied.

Not as easy as you would think to do.
 

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One minor note: Not all stainless steels are nonmagnetic. Martensitic stainless is magnetic and Austenitic nickel stainless is not. Both are out there, but I am not sure which is more prevalent in firearms. I have used both in the furnace industry.
 

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I may be too late but if you are interested I have a formula that I used to put a "parkerized" finish on a 1911 Combat Commander. It would more closely match the color case of the rest of the pistol. I removed the Colt bluing and used it to provide a more "combat" finish.
 

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Almost all firearms "SS" are magnetic 4xx series. 17-4PH (Casul) are lightly magnetic.
In 1969, a M60 S&W was scarce as bat tracks and brought up to 10X retail. A customer bought one and put it in a saltwater tackle box (!!) and it was ruined in a year.
About the same time, the same (nutty) millionaire lowered a brand new Rolex Submariner SS watch into 2000 feet of water to 'test' it to 660 meters. But, a barracuda about five feet long and REALLY fast cut it off the line and disappeared..... I don't know how it lasted but the point is, there are some SS steels and there are shiny metals that stay shiny longer than others.
 
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