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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to glass bed a Model 700. There are you-tubes showing how to take off the trigger but there are springs popping off and parts dropping off. I thought I'd draw how things look and go slow but any tips on the job appreciated- I want to take everything off and just have the action.
 

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I've got a photo tutorial on disassembly and assembly HERE

If you've got a new gun, it'll have an XMark Pro trigger in it. the bolt stop is the same and the trigger is mounted to the gun the same, but you don't have to take off the safety. In fact, the XMP trigger has 'permanent' fasteners that can't be easily removed. Just take it off as a unit by drifting out the two pins as described.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's the old style, I've been sitting on the gun for years. A local K-Mart was closing down and the wood stock (demo) was beat up- I offered $200 and they took it and I just stored it away.
Right now I'm putting in the pillars. Not yet glued. Once in I will remove high spots on the inlet and glass bed. QUESTION. From what I read you get some 1/4" x 28 bolts and put those in place on the action- everything waxed. And then apply the epoxy to the bedding- I'll use Devcon 10010, and then you lower the action with attached bolts down into the stock and wrap up with surgical tubing. My worry is if you don't wrap tight enough and the action ends up a little above the pillars- you sort of screwed up but from what I've read you aren't supposed to bolt down the stock because it creates stress. Any tips/comments appreciated- thanks.
 

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You got it all right. ;)
The most common 'first mistake' in glass bedding is using too much wax release agent. Brush it on and wipe it off but don't buff it. Be sure there's no wax goobers in the corners. Wax and epoxy mix to be hard wax-soft epoxy and no good for bedding.

Before you glass it, hold the action against the pillars and note the space between stock and barrel at the end. When you stick the action and barrel in the goo and wrap the elastic, wrap tight enough to get that same gap which tells you you're against the stops on the pillars. Be sure to wax everything, including the floor if you don't want epoxy stuck to it.

Check the fit of your headless tang screws in the stock. If its loose enough to allow the action to roll side to side, wrap enough tape around them to take up the slack.

Be sure the bottom of the recoil lug does not touch the bottom of the mortise when the action is resting on the pillars. You can add a layer of duct tape to the straight sides and bottom of the recoil lug to give you a perfect clearance when the tape is removed. I use the same trick to glass a stock full length but with a free-floated barrel. Heavy Duct tape is about .010 thick which is perfect for clearances in bedding jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That was my idea- very carefully mark where the barrel rests along the stock and make sure to get it to that mark. Everyone talks about surgical tubing but the stuff on the internet is a whole roll for about $60. What else can you use? Regular electrician's tape? Thanks
 

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I use blood draw straps from the vampire part of the hospital but a strip of innertube works, too. Surgical tubing degrades too fast for me.
At one time, I saw a student use a bungy cord, but he forgot the wax the stock in spots and it was tough getting it loose.
 
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