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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Put them on mine as a backup to the scope. Think most are Williams. Might have a Lyman around here somewhere; traded a steel Redfield to a guy who wanted it for the nostalgic look. They all work.

A better front sight helps; I have used both a fiber optic, which is great for silhouettes, and an Ashley (now XO Systems I think) front, for hunting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used them as a kid hunting squirrels with a .22 and found them to be very accurate at those close ranges. How about at longer ranges, 100-150 yards? Can you shoot 1-2 inch groups at 100?

Spence
 

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Let's say. . a peep sight and good front sight combo are easily capable of sub 2" groups at 100 yards, if you are.
I have a Williams on my 336. I really like the looks of the Skinner sights, though- if I had it to do again, I'd probably get Skinner sights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Let's say. . a peep sight and good front sight combo are easily capable of sub 2" groups at 100 yards, if you are.
Ah, but that "..if you are" is always the problem, isn't it? :p

They certainly look better on a lever action than a scope, to my eye. The Williams sight labeled the WGRS, which is entirely on top of the receiver, looks pretty good. So does the Skinner. If I read the promo correctly, the adjustment for elevation on the Skinner involves screwing and unscrewing the aperture post, and they say a half turn changes the point of aim 2" at 100 yards. Since I can't imagine being able to make less than a half turn, that seems a fairly coarse adjustment. What do you do if you need to move the bullet 1"?

I assume none of them help with low light shooting like a good scope with a wide exit pupil, though.

Spence
 

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I have a Lyman peep on my Marlin .444S. It was on it when I bought it and I've left it there for a bad wether choice, over a scope. I have gotten 3 shot groups under 1/2" @ 50yds with that set-up which likely surprised me as much as you! I do, with my older eyes, much prefer a low powered scope than the peep sight, especially at last light.
 

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my wife has an XS ghost ring setup on her marlin 336c. she gets pretty decent groups, around 2" at 100M. good enough for her, good enough for me.
 

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I have a Williams FP336 receiver sight on my 1895GS (same action as a 336).
For traditional receiver sights, it depends on how new your Marlin is, it may or may not be drilled and tapped on the left side of the receiver.
If it is not, you can use the Williams FP336 or 5D336 receiver sight, as they mount using the rear two scope mounting holes. If it is drilled and tapped, you can use a FP-94/36-TK or 5D-94/36 from Williams, a Lyman 66, or an older Redfield sight.
For more "modern" receiver sights, the sights mentioned (Williams WGRS, Skinner Sights, XS) are all great, but most likely will require a taller front sight, because they mount quite a bit higher above the bore.

As far as accuracy goes, this list is taken from Skinner Sights website. Col Whelen said the different sights resulted in the following sighting errors, You can be assured that a receiver sight is more accurate than open sights:

Open Rear Sight: Accuracy is unpredictable due to lighting conditions (shoots away from side lighting, and high for overhead mid-day conditions).
Aperture Rear, Gold or Ivory front: 1.5 -2"
Aperture Rear, Black Post front:
1"
Aperture Rear, Aperture front: 1/2 to 3/4"
2-1/2x Scope: 1/4-1/2"
6x Scope: 1/8" to 1/4"
10x Scope: 1/16" to 1/8"
20x Scope: Practically None
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you, Andy, that is good info.

My gun is new, is drilled and tapped on top of the receiver for a scope, not on the side.

Spence
 

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I have three Marlins with Williams receiver sights. The .444 has Williams FP, Twilight aperture, and gold bead front sight. The 336 35 Rem. has Williams 5D, Twilight aperture, and gold bead front sight. The Revelation 200 (Western Auto Store house-brand Marlin 336) in .30-30 has Williams 5D, Twilight aperture, and (temporarily) a plain post front sight.

Just today I sighted in the .30-30 with the 5D I just ordered on sale from MidwayUSA. After a little more experimentation with the height of the front post which I can file down as needed, I will exchange it for a gold bead like my two other Marlins. Then all three Marlins will be set up the same and practice with any of them will transfer to the others.

I have bolt action rifles with scopes for other uses, but my leverguns just make more sense with the receiver sights. I've used receiver sights off and on since 1962 and have no complaints. They are rugged, accurate, and dependable.
 

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Naumann, what do you think of the Twilight Apertures? I am assuming you like them, I tried removing the aperture for a "ghost ring" and didn't care for that at all. I am also thinking about installing a plain blade front sight (it would be a post when viewed though the sight), but you prefer the bead instead? I'm just used to the M-16 post.

Spence, if you are wondering about the difference between the FP and the 5D Williams sights, the FP has adjustment "clicks" and the 5D is friction adjustment. The FP is easier to adjust, but once you get the sights "on" you wouldn't really need to adjust them. My next Williams receiver sight will be a 5D.

Andy
 

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I put a 5D on my 336 and on my 1895. The 336 in 30-30 required a new front sight blade but after that it is the cats meow. Much better than a scope in my view....
 

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I just put peeps on my pre-64 model 94 in .32 Special.
It probably messed up the collector value, but I can't
see iron sights anymore and a scope is out of the question.
The old 94 shoots pretty good with peeps.

Zeke
 

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I have the Williams on my 336

Like it better than my 94 with factory sights. I just shoot a peep better than a buckhorn. Looks good too!
 

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depending on the light.. a touch of white out or black magic marker on the front sight tip helps these old eyes some .. it drys in a second or to, an both come right off with alcohol..slim
 

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........
If I read the promo correctly, the adjustment for elevation on the Skinner involves screwing and unscrewing the aperture post, and they say a half turn changes the point of aim 2" at 100 yards. Since I can't imagine being able to make less than a half turn, that seems a fairly coarse adjustment. What do you do if you need to move the bullet 1"?
.......
Spence
Spence, regarding the 1/2 turn adjustment, you may be thinking you might not have to turn it very much, but that is assuming that, with both the front and rear sights installed, it's already very close to "zero". That would be sheer luck, and probably not very realistic.

Remember, by the time you get your Skinner sight on, and depending which front sight you choose, you may have to crank the adjustment around a little (more than just a half-turn or more) to get close. Then you can start to figure in 1/2 and 1/4 turns to get where you want to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Then you can start to figure in 1/2 and 1/4 turns to get where you want to be.
I must not understand how that post works. It appears to be just a solid screw with a hole drilled through it at the top. They say you adjust elevation by screwing the post in or out. If it's solid, it would seem you could only see through it if it were oriented so the hole aligns with the barrel. That would only be true every 180°. Half a turn or a quarter of a turn would orient the hole so you couldn't see through it.

What am I missing?

Spence
 
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