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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read that one of the benefits of shooting 357 maximum is that you can use your 357 magnum dies to reload--no need to buy another set of dies if you are already shooting/reloading 357mag.

Ok. I have 357mag dies.

I have a 357maximum brass to be shot in a Contender.

I'm thinking I adjust my sizing die upward to allow for the taller brass and a full range of motion of the lever ... expect that not all of the brass will travel fully into the die. have also heard that there is no real need for full length resizing in 357 max in Contenders anyway...they are fire formed to the chamber each shot.

also thinking the pin to knock out the primer needs to be adjusted downward to make that happen.

The rest of the dies are only dealing with the mouth of the case so the length of the case isn't the issue here...just proper adjustment of the die w/ respect to distance from the shell plate at maximum travel of the lever arm.

Is it really that simple? Moving the dies upward to account for the extra length of the case?

I haven't sat down to begin the process of adjusting for the longer brass and am looking for pointers on what to expect that may be different.

Thanks
 

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with a carbide sizing die you don't need to change anything.
I think the same is true with a standard steel die.
only need to adjust for case mouth flare, bullet seating & crimp.
..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
carbides, check

and your comment reminds me ...

I have read about 50-50 comments on crimp/no crimp in single-shot pistols.

Some say it is powder dependent, crimp when using this powder, but not this other one.

Others say, "no need to crimp" no matter the powder.

Is this all personal experience? Some find one powder/bullet/primer combo does better w/ crimp while another shooter with a different gun finds no crimp provides better accuracy?
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Should work if the Max case can go far enough into the sizer. My Hornady dies are marked for both the .357 Mag and .357 Max, so it can be done......
 

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You'll want as much of the case to go into the sizing die as possible, during that operation. If it's not all the way to the rim, just make sure the cases still chamber properly, which they almost certainly will.

To crimp or not to crimp really depends on what results you're getting with your handloads. You certainly don't need to crimp in order to avoid setback during recoil, since there's no magazine. However, some powders burn more consistently with a crimp, resulting in lower standard deviation in your muzzle velocity. To put it succinctly, which is not necessarily my strong suit, ;) work up your loads and shoot for accuracy. If there is no problem with accuracy, check your MV. If that is high enough for your needs then you're all set.

If the accuracy isn't there and the chronograph reveals a high standard deviation, go back and try crimping. For the record: H110/W296 is one powder that typically shows a preference for crimped cases.
 

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Your doing the same thing as loading the 357 with the 38 Spl dies . the only thing with revolvers at least is your not resizing that bit of case just above the rim. For some chambers that matters - so size a few and check to see if they are going to be tight before loading a hundred rounds or so.
Every thing else adjusts the same .
 

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You'll want as much of the case to go into the sizing die as possible, during that operation. If it's not all the way to the rim, just make sure the cases still chamber properly, which they almost certainly will.
I agree and disagree with this statement. If all your loads will be used in the same single shot Contender, you may not need to size anything more than the case mouth (i.e. like "neck sizing" a rifle case). Then your brass will be fireformed to the chamber. Of course, if they don't chamber or extract well, then you will indeed have to full length size them.
 

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I agree and disagree with this statement. If all your loads will be used in the same single shot Contender, you may not need to size anything more than the case mouth (i.e. like "neck sizing" a rifle case). Then your brass will be fireformed to the chamber. Of course, if they don't chamber or extract well, then you will indeed have to full length size them.
This is true of pretty much all metallic reloading, unless you choose to full-length resize every time. I guess I'm not really clear on what you're trying to say, here. :confused:
 

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This is true of pretty much all metallic reloading, unless you choose to full-length resize every time. I guess I'm not really clear on what you're trying to say, here. :confused:
You'd have to read the quote I was responding to (quoted in my original post) to get it. That poster was stating you always have to full length size.
 
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