Since you have manuals to cross-check against, you are likely well-prepared to spot a 9×23 Winchester load misremembered by somebody as being a 9mm Parabellum. I won't worry about this in your instance.
As a starting point and for any pistol in general, a round-nose ball bullet is the least likely to present feed or cycle problems and is a good way to break a gun in. This is true of handloads and commercial ammunition. If you look at military ball specs for that bullet shape, the Hornady 115 grain FMJ (sometimes available in bulk at a discount) seated to 1.1" COL and fired with a load of 4.7 grains of either Hodgdon HP38 or Winchester 231 (same powder, OBP231 from St. Marks, but with different branding) happens to hit military 115 grain ball velocity from a 5 inch tube, so it is pretty representative of ball powder, though the military uses a somewhat slower powder. HP38/231 is economical and easy to meter and fairly versatile in common pistol cases. I've run a lot of it through 45 Auto, in particular, but have loaded .380 for my spouse's gun with it as well. It's what I would begin with. However, Hornady, which recommends that 1.100" COL for that bullet in 9 mm Luger, says 4.1 grains is the starting load and 4.7 grains is maximum. Other sources let you use more. I've generally found Hornady book loads to be on the light side, but not always. I think the lighter maximums occur because Hornady tries to hit velocities in fixed steps for their listings, so they stop increasing charge when they can't make the next step without going over pressure, and not simply when the pressure limit is reached. Nonetheless, I would work up to it. It just takes a few minutes to load up from the bottom in steps that are about 2% of the maximum (0.1-grain steps in this instance). And then you have just 7 loads to shoot in order while watching for pressure signs and failures to function.
Once you have established that and made it work and, unless the gun is already broken in, after you have about 500 rounds of those through it, that is when I would start branching out into other bullet profiles that interest you. 231 will give you normal maximum velocities for all of them. If you want to get to higher extra power factor loads, then you'll want to go to something a bit slower, like Power Pistol, but until that happens, this will break you in and not give you any problems with metering. The 231 is very popular for target work, so it will also shoot lead for you if you decide to go that direction. It is a bit dirty in low pressure 45 Auto loads, but the higher 9 mm pressures will help burn that out.
The only caution is to watch out for double-charges as it is possible to have them with 231/HP38. You want to be sure you have looked down in every case, every time before a bullet goes in. Even on a progressive press, you want to have light located to let you see down in to every passing charged case.
My guess is a better question to ask is, what bullets might this gun like? I would be willing to bet that the type bullet will make more of a difference than the type of powder. There are so many powders you could use in a 9mm, you could probably spend the rest of your life testing them all. Just pick one and go with it. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
