Shooters Forum banner

Reloading shotgun slugs

7195 Views 32 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  thumbs
I have a deerslayerll that has been in the cabinet for years. All of my deer hunting is done with black powder. Anyway

I want get out the ole deer slayer and use it but the slugs are so expensive it's prohibitive. The "shotgun" has a rifled barrel. Is it practical to reload slugs for this gun? I have been lookin around a bit and see that Lee makes a slug mold where the slug can be loaded in a AA hull. I have a Lee shotgun press that I have used for shot for years. Anyway can someone help me with this problem?

thanks for the help
1 - 8 of 33 Posts
thumbs,I have been loading the Lyman 525grain sabot in AA hulls with 45+gr of blue dot powder and a Win WT12 wad and I am confident that this is going to be my new hunting round as I am getting .5-1" groups C toC and I am confident that the oversized wad cutter pellet shape will flatten my animals just as well as it has for so many others!
it costs more then the Lee but I think it is worth every cent!
same same thumbs, degrease carbon then dip the corner in the pot til no lead sticks ....then I run a few duds to get it up to temp....I have had much better results with hard cast vs. soft and I water quench them out of the mold this hardens them even more! ....I have loaded them (lee 1oz drive key) with the same loads and components that i liked for 1oz of shot and regular fold crimped I got was about 5-6" @50 yards with the smoothies I used at the time.
I bought the Lyman because I have had good luck with them in a smoothie and so far great results out of the rifled barrel as they are made for rifled barrels as aposed to the Lee drive key that is made for the smoothie....I did load them made out of soft lead as I was not the one casting the Lee and this could have been the cause for the bad grouping?!?! of luck on your journy and do a search on here and the web for results loading the drive key slug ....most of all have a blast lol
I have not used any lube in my molds...45cal RB 50calRB 45-70 and the Lyman sabot slug mold...I just carbon the heck out of them with a bic lighter after degreasing them and away I go so far so good but should I be useing lube?
I use a small dowel to seat the Lyman sabot firmly into the wad and I then inspect the pettels of the wad to make sur that I can see all of the tips around the slug so I know that there is not one that is folded over and wedged into the slug i then fold crimp...but soon I will be trying the roll crimp out...(thanks Pete)
and I think that the roll crimp will be more uniform as to the releasing of the projectile?!?! we will see
Thums i was just going to ask the same thing lol to funny!
hmm I wonder if used roll crimp hulls store bought slugs...lots of them in the garbage just before our two shotgun ML seasons at the club??
Yes used roll crimped hulls work just fine, and hulls that were previously fold crimped work as well as a new hull after you have trimmed them. There are tools available to help trim the hull perfectly round, and to skive them, but you can make your own tools for this. Trimmed hulls require specific load data such as a change to the wad column.
thanks,do you cut off 1/4" and does this not make the compleated shell shorter then 2 3/4"
?? Thanks Jonathan
Thanks Scott,
I thank you for your time....and your concern I did not know about the shorter hull higher pressures game but I will defenetly keep this in mind as for pressure signs in a shot gun I agree that the signs are different and less noticable but I find them still the same and reliable ie: stuck cases due to swelling case head,bolt face strikes on the case head and popped or blown primers...I like win 209 and cheddite as I find them softer but I find CCI the most reliable primer for detecting HP signs in any load
do you find this to be true for your loading as well?

thanks again for your time Jonathan
1 - 8 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.