[LennyWayne]

As I am a new member of this forum, and this being my first post, I wanted to thank the many fellow sportsmen for sharing a lifetime of knowledge in the many excellent reports/responses that you have all provided.

I have read through most of the articles on the REM 700, and after thorough research, decided on a REM 700 Varmint Lamented Stock in a .243 (with a Nikkon Monarch 4x12x40 on top), verses the very highly praised 2nd option, which was a Savage 12BVSS.

Having shot the rifle for the first time over the weekend, I realize that I have a lot to learn, and appreciate the advice of the many skilled riflemen on this page.

But my initial question is……..I used the following barrel "break in" instruction that I was provided by a family member who has recently taken a "long range rifle class". I completed the steps, but was curious what effect that these steps have on the accuracy of the barrel, and wondered if anyone was familiar with the process, and what would happen if the barrel wasn't broken in?

For the first 5 shots, clean the barrel after each shot. For the next 50 shots, clean the barrel after each 5-shot group. The barrel is now broken in. To maintain the quality of the barrel, we recommend cleaning within every 20 shots. The term "cleaning the barrel" as stated above means: use a plastic coated cleaning rod, a bronze brush, flannel patches and a quality bore solvent. Saturate the brush with solvent and make 20 passes through the barrel (10 cycles). Let the solvent soak in the barrel for 10 minutes, then saturate the brush again with solvent and make 20 more passes through the barrel. Push 3 patches through the barrel to remove excess solvent and loosened fouling. The barrel break-in is complete.

Also, can anyone provide a link that would allow me to research what it means to “glass bed” my REM 700 VLS, or because of the laminated stock, if it is even necessary to do so??

 

[LennyWayne]

Thank you Mike -

Your points makes sense, so it seems it wouldn't have been an issue either way, but I guess it gave me a reason to shoot 50+ rounds.

Please excuse me if this question is too elementary, but "how" do I free float the barrel? I ask, because I know that currently it does not free float. I have learned that if your barrel is free floating, you should be able to slide paper between the stock and barrel, and I can't.

Unfortunately, I can’t confirm that it “free floated” from the factory, because I adjusted the trigger (per a resource found on this board) before I fired my first shot. And after the adjustment I snugly set the screws to a reasonable strength. Is it possible to snug the screws so tight, that it would cause a free float problem?

I have to admit, my groups were not nearly as accurate as I expected, but in my defense, at the end of my "break in" session, I was flinching before I had even put the shell in the chamber. My last 3 shot group at 100 yards, was approximately 1”, but again it was a poor time to judge the rifle, when the shooter (me) had all but quit.

And finally - I realized while on the range, that I have no clue how many rounds that I can fire in a row, before the barrel overheats (obviously effecting accuracy - correct??). Is there a formula, or rounded opinion you could share?

 

[LennyWayne]

Excellent.

I appreciate the advice and appreciate the welcome.

With the amount of things I plan to learn, I'm afraid that I'll "beat everyone down" with my questions, but I promise to search the board before I ask the really dumb ones!!!!

Again, thank you.

P.S. I'm open to any suggestions, or opinions, that would improve on the accuracy of my 700VLS (or me, the shooter). My brother shoots a 22-250 (and reloads), and we tend to turn most things into a competition, so any advantage I gain through this board - I'll use!!
thx!