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Hi, LennyWayne:
A 1" group isn't bad with a new rifle and when you're not in your best form. I'd cut back on the barrel brushing now that you're done the break-in routine. You may have a copper build up in spite of that cleaning. Run a snug patch down the barrel the next day and look for green fouling on it. I prefer Hoppes Benchrest copper solvent because it won't damage the barrel if it's left in too long.
If the barrel isn't free floating with the action screws reasonably tight, it wasn't free floating at the factory. I'd shoot it with a few different loads before I'd free float it. Usually Remington barrels are off the wood from the action or maybe a couple of inches ahead, to a pressure point or pad at the front of the stock. You can tune this setup by backing off the rear action screw until it feels half as tight as the front one. Try it both ways.
How hot is too hot? Depends on the barrel, but if you can't hold on to it with your bare hand, it's probably too hot.
Bye
Jack
A 1" group isn't bad with a new rifle and when you're not in your best form. I'd cut back on the barrel brushing now that you're done the break-in routine. You may have a copper build up in spite of that cleaning. Run a snug patch down the barrel the next day and look for green fouling on it. I prefer Hoppes Benchrest copper solvent because it won't damage the barrel if it's left in too long.
If the barrel isn't free floating with the action screws reasonably tight, it wasn't free floating at the factory. I'd shoot it with a few different loads before I'd free float it. Usually Remington barrels are off the wood from the action or maybe a couple of inches ahead, to a pressure point or pad at the front of the stock. You can tune this setup by backing off the rear action screw until it feels half as tight as the front one. Try it both ways.
How hot is too hot? Depends on the barrel, but if you can't hold on to it with your bare hand, it's probably too hot.
Bye
Jack
