Rifle stock treatment
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Unfortunately, some of the synthetics developed a sticky issue and from a ton of stuff I have read there is not a lot to do other than replace it. It is inherent in the batch of composite...plastic used during the manufacturing.
You can wipe it down with a solvent that might keep it away for a bit, but it will come back. Call Sako and see what they will offer you in the way of compensation towards a Boyd's or Richardd?
Good luck and all the best.
You can wipe it down with a solvent that might keep it away for a bit, but it will come back. Call Sako and see what they will offer you in the way of compensation towards a Boyd's or Richardd?
Good luck and all the best.
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690 Posts
Would coating it with an epoxy type spray like Aluma Hyde seal it ?
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8,422 Posts
Welcome to the forum from the great state of Tennessee 👍
I'm still in the midst of my Browning A-Bolt sticky stock saga. It's been gone 2 months now and their site says that I can expect it back sometime around mid June (a phone call confirmed that). I tried to find a wood stock replacement, but wasn't able to find one for a 2nd gen A-Bolt 12ga.
I own 3 new M85 Sakos and love them (2 walnut and one laminate). I have seen where folks had been successful in getting rid of the stickiness as mentioned above and then putting a new finish on it to prevent the poor "coating" first used from coming through again.
I'd remove the recoil pad and wipe the entire stock down with copious amounts of a good solvent. As good as I've found WD-40 to be at removing any sticky residues I've needed to, I'd start with it and then something more akin to a paint thinner. Once the stickiness is gone, I'd choose a color of Krylon Fusion paint (designed to work on plastics) and put a couple Coats on the stock. I chose medium gray for a project that I've not yet started. It will be followed by a can of Black marbleizing paint that's used to give a spider web effect over the grey and that followed by a can of Krylon satin clearcoat.
The marbleizing step can of course be left out. I have read where folks have successfully redone the Winchesters and Brownings that had a class action suit brought against them. No one wants to sit and wait (like me) for 6 months for a stock refinish. I wish now that I'd chosen to do mine myself.
Good luck with whatever you work out 👍
I'm still in the midst of my Browning A-Bolt sticky stock saga. It's been gone 2 months now and their site says that I can expect it back sometime around mid June (a phone call confirmed that). I tried to find a wood stock replacement, but wasn't able to find one for a 2nd gen A-Bolt 12ga.
I own 3 new M85 Sakos and love them (2 walnut and one laminate). I have seen where folks had been successful in getting rid of the stickiness as mentioned above and then putting a new finish on it to prevent the poor "coating" first used from coming through again.
I'd remove the recoil pad and wipe the entire stock down with copious amounts of a good solvent. As good as I've found WD-40 to be at removing any sticky residues I've needed to, I'd start with it and then something more akin to a paint thinner. Once the stickiness is gone, I'd choose a color of Krylon Fusion paint (designed to work on plastics) and put a couple Coats on the stock. I chose medium gray for a project that I've not yet started. It will be followed by a can of Black marbleizing paint that's used to give a spider web effect over the grey and that followed by a can of Krylon satin clearcoat.
The marbleizing step can of course be left out. I have read where folks have successfully redone the Winchesters and Brownings that had a class action suit brought against them. No one wants to sit and wait (like me) for 6 months for a stock refinish. I wish now that I'd chosen to do mine myself.
Good luck with whatever you work out 👍
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2,474 Posts
ewwww....you still have a "plastic" stock? yuck!!! i'd replace it with wood or at least a laminate.a wood stock will warp!!!! bullpuckey!!! my sons' have a sporterized 1891 Argentine Mauser that were made in 1893 and 1894 and it is still good.
my 1891 Argie (made in 1900)
i have seen two wooden stocks that needed replaced. one was like a woodchipper went thru it and then put on the gun and two was black mold underneath the steel.
1. 1916 Spanish Mauser in 6.5x55
2. 98 Mauser (1944) in 8x57
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12,511 Posts
I'm wondering if "In the safe" is or might be a key part of the situation. I'm not sure how or if that may come about from prolonged "safe storage" but I've heard of other cases of plastic deterioration while in a confined space with no ventilation.
I don't have a "safe" per-say, I have a secure, climate controlled and ventilated room.
I'm wondering if the stickiness may be due to confinement where the plastic can't "breathe". (?)
My one true plastic stock (700SPS) has never shown any signs of deterioration nor have the stocks on my Sendero SFII with its HS Precision stock or 700 Long Range with its McMillan stock 🤷♂️
RJ
I don't have a "safe" per-say, I have a secure, climate controlled and ventilated room.
I'm wondering if the stickiness may be due to confinement where the plastic can't "breathe". (?)
My one true plastic stock (700SPS) has never shown any signs of deterioration nor have the stocks on my Sendero SFII with its HS Precision stock or 700 Long Range with its McMillan stock 🤷♂️
RJ
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11,183 Posts
It's because of the plastics and formaldehyde floating around in your RSC, those cheap things are a cocktail of no bueno for firearms.
If you're going to lock guns away for storage, buy an actual gun safe with an honest UL safe listing. Not a cheap RSC with a bogus UL standard.
As far as cleaning/saving the stock. If it's not too far gone, soapy warm water and a little scrubbing. If that doesn't work, the solvent attack is too far gone, and you'll need to replace it.
Cheers
If you're going to lock guns away for storage, buy an actual gun safe with an honest UL safe listing. Not a cheap RSC with a bogus UL standard.
As far as cleaning/saving the stock. If it's not too far gone, soapy warm water and a little scrubbing. If that doesn't work, the solvent attack is too far gone, and you'll need to replace it.
Cheers
I see the OP is a springbok, and his rifle is Scandinavian, maybe sako's manufacturing method isn't compatible where the climate, in the depths of winter, isn't as cold as the country of origin in the height of summer. Just saying.
At this stage I'll comment that I'm not often right and I could be wrong again.
At this stage I'll comment that I'm not often right and I could be wrong again.
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8,422 Posts
If your brother has still not gotten the stock situation remedied, there was a class action lawsuit against Browning and Winchester that was settled 5-6yrs ago giving the owners of all the "sticky stocks" some relief. They will refinish the stocks (and metal) of shotguns and rifles made within a certain timetable for free.
He should be able to find info pretty easily by googling it and he should be able to find out if his is covered in the settlement.
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Thanks, I found it and will let him know.
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I enjoyed a 2009 Bear hunt in Maine with Mr Hart. Fun guy to have in camp
Bob Hart on the left, me on the right here.
I've had some similar situations with this and other things. I've wiped them down with light coats of flour, rub it in, try to polish and repeat as necessary.
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