[Stinky123]

I've got a 6 shot S&W 617 that is real hard to unload. The cylinders are clean. It has a square type star....off-hand, I'm not sure if it has a hammer nose on it, and if it is a MIM made gun or not. After shooting, sometimes, you have to wack the heck outa the ejector rod.

Examining the cases...some of the spent cases will slip right back in, and some of em won't hardly go back in to the cylinders.

I just had a thought....I wonder if some of the cylinders are over-sized. How would check that?

I was wondering about polishing the cylinders...would that help?

What should I check?

 

[recoil junky]

Mark the cylinder bores and brass that comes out of them, (1-1, 2-2 etc) then measure each piece of brass at the mouth, halfway and just in front of the rim and compare them all. You could have a hole or two that's barrel shaped. You know, like a keg.

RJ

 

[nsb]

I’ve had a few .22lr handguns like this over the years. I had a Dan Wesson that went back to the factory twice and given to them to look at at an IHMSA Internaitonal match. They never got it fixed and I ended up trading the gun. You literally needed a mallet to get the empties out and it didn’t matter how clean the gun was or what brand of ammo you were using. I had a Ruger SS that did that and one trip back to Ruger fixed the problem….new cylinder. I’d do what Recoil Junky suggested and tell them to NOT send it back until they fired a couple of cylinders full of ammo through it to test it.
One Caveat: all .22lr rimfires stick a bit if they aren’t really, really clean. Lots of wax and powder residue building up quick. They will NEVER just fall out like a centerfire handgun.

 

[JBelk]

A 'jugged' or 'barrel-shaped' one or more chambers is the most likely suspect.
Naturally, Chambers are MUCH easier to polish with a rotary tool but polishing marks will be radial and subject to grabbing brass. Polishing lengthways is hard to do but sometimes miraculous in results.
I do it with a copper lap .010 smaller than the chamber and loaded with extra-fine lapping compound. Ten seconds per chamber is about right, but spend more time looking to see what needs doing and cleaning between a few strokes and re-cleaning and looking. The lapping strokes are in and out while maintaining a flat lap to chamber wall orientation. Lap and slightly rotate the chamber and the lap and lap again. No rotary motion except to expose another part of the chamber to the in and out lap.
Autos can operate 'too' good with chambers slicked up and a little case drag is acceptable. Revolvers are much different. I have an eight shot lightweight S&W that needed some work if the entire cylinder full was fired.
Dry Slide lock lube or Moly powder on a Q-Tip has to be re-newed but can get you through a shooting session.

 

[DarkLord]

Before you polish a cylinder, consider sending it back to the factory.

 

[Clawed 1]

Before you polish a cylinder, consider sending it back to the factory.

Ditto that, I shot 2500 through mine in the first 2 weeks that I owned it, without a hitch, so they can build them right..

 

[Clawed 1]

Oh I should mention that I cleaned at regular intervals of about 150 rounds, always brushing out under the extractor star, and sometimes in between cleanings.

 

[kjuranek]

I've got a 6 shot S&W 617 that is real hard to unload. The cylinders are clean. It has a square type star....off-hand, I'm not sure if it has a hammer nose on it, and if it is a MIM made gun or not. After shooting, sometimes, you have to wack the heck outa the ejector rod.

Examining the cases...some of the spent cases will slip right back in, and some of em won't hardly go back in to the cylinders.

I just had a thought....I wonder if some of the cylinders are over-sized. How would check that?

I was wondering about polishing the cylinders...would that help?

What should I check?

If your shooting reloads i have found hot loads will expand enought to make them stick when you try to eject spent rounds.

 

[pasound70]

I have a 617 that has tight chambers. 50-60 rounds of Remington or Aquila clog it up. I keep a brush at the range when I use it. Love the accuracy - off a rest, shoots groups nearly as tight as my 22 rifles. My Ruger Single-10 must have larger chambers, as it never seems to react to "dirty" ammo. 250-300 rounds and then I brush the chambers. CCI and Federal don't seem to be a problem in either one. I may polish the chambers on the 617, but so far, the brush routine is fine.

 

[Lost Oki]

Have a Dan Wesson 357 that I was having extraction issues with light loads. Full factory and I usually had to wait 5 min to get them out. I cleaned each chamber using bronze brush 4 times, no luck. Removed cylinder, and polished each chamber using hand drill, scotch bright pad and white polishing compound. I cut a round patch out of green pad, cut center hole, mounted it on long 10-32 screw, coated pad with polishing compound with slow rpm, polishing each cylinder for about 10 seconds, cleaned all chambers and problem solved. I was amazed at how black the pad got on what I thought was a clean chamber.