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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Mod.24 61/2 inch barrel that has been my cross to bear. I have three mod 25s in 45 Colt, one mod 25 in 45 acp, a Colt Anaconda in 45 Colt, a S&W mod 28 in 357, a Python in 357. I shoot all of these revolvers double action only, and do rather well with them. I can keep all the shots in a 3 inch circle at 25 yards, firing at a rapid clip.
This model 24 has been with me for 15 years or so and I've been lucky to to keep all the shots in a rain barrel at the same distance. Now if I start shooting single action all the shots will cluster together very nicely.
I would say that this model 24 has the best trigger of all my revolvers, the barrel has been lapped, off the bench this piece is very accurate.
What's different about this revolver. It has the longest barrel, and the short Pacmyer (SP) Presentation grips. The other revolvers have the regular grips or Hogue grips.
Maybe you fellows can tell me what I'm doing wrong.
Jim
 

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Hmmmm....

Perhaps a comparison of the length of reach, to the trigger is somewhat different on this revolver, either in length, or configuration due to the grips.  It's fitting your hand differently might be changing the handling characteristic just enough that it doesn't fit you like the other S&W's built on the same frame.

Just like shotgun stock fit being everything when it comes to intuitive scattergun pointing, revolver fit is a much overlooked aspect of handgunning.

Try taking a set of grips off one of your other revolvers that you shoot very well double action, (same frame configuration of course), and fit them to your Model 24 and see if it makes a difference in your DA shooting potential.  

Just a thought!

God Bless,

Marshall
 

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Arkypete:

The most likely thing I can think of from my own experience is the trigger.  Not reach, pull, or any of the normal considerations, but how wide is it and do any of your other N frame Smiths have a similar trigger.  For me the target trigger is very difficult to control in double action where the standard or even the so-called Texas Ranger trigger works much better. The Texas Ranger is the medium width, smooth face trigger, so-called because it first appeared on the Texas Ranger commemorative.

When I was still competing in PPC I used to shoot in master.  I changed the standard trigger in my 4" K-38 which I used in competition (really, not a Combat Masterpiece) to the target trigger and everything really went in the toilet until I put the standard one back in the gun!  I used the 4" because I picked up 6-10 points over my 6".  This was before the all tricked out guns now used.

Of course, if your 27 or 25 had a target trigger this won't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I purchase a new S&W revolver I take it out to the work shop and disassemble it. I grind all the knurling, checkering off the trigger and contour the trigger to fit my finger. I throw the  factory grips into a box with all the others. Purchase a new set of Pachmyers and install them.
I polish all the trigger/hammer parts on a Washita stone to get the burrs and such off. I polish all the flat surfaces of all the parts to a bright shiney finish, do a bit of crocus cloth polishing on the inside of the action.
Some where in this process I lock up the frame and barrel in a vice to begin the lapping process. This lapping process will take several repeats. I relube everything, sprinkle a bit of moly or graphite inside and work the action while I watch the boob tube. This gives me a chance to get a feel for that revolver in relation to my other revolvers.
Over the next 4 or 5 months I'll repeat this process until I get the revolver the way I like it. Until I've gotten the revolver to the place where I like it's feel, how it shoots and what load it likes the best, that revolver does not go into my shooting box.
I'm thinking that that the current set of Pachmyer Presentation grips may be the problem. These grips are a bit shorter and I can only 1/3 of my pinky on the bottom of the grip.
Jim
 
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