Was wondering if anyone on here has any experience with a savage 340E in .22 hornet, I got my paps a few years ago and I cant get the thing to hold even a 1 1/2" group at 100 yds. Im not sure if its the nature of the rifle or the factory ammo im using.
savage 340E .22 hornet
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In my experience, most of the lower cost 22 Hornets are 1 ½” rifles. There are a number of simple little things you can do - ammunition wise - to help the situation.
All of this assumes the rifle shoots reasonably round groups of 1 ½” with few fliers.
Again, my experience has been that few older Hornet rifles have been shot very much. It is a good idea to clean the barrel.
I had several 22 Hornet rifles which have given me fits while attempting to reduce group size under 1 ½” at 100 hundred yards. Here is what worked for me:
First, use brass of all the same brand, preferably new.
Trim this brass to the same length.
De-burr the case mouths and flash holes, uniform the primer pockets.
Fire the brass in your chamber, neck size the cases and seat the bullets no more than .224” deep.
Use a high quality bullet such as the Nosler Ballistic tip for your accuracy test. I suggest the 45-grain Ballistic Tip and 10.0 grains of Winchester 296 or Hodgdon 110 for a start, seating the bullet just short of the lands. Use rifle primers.
Later when you have established your rifle will shoot, IMR or Hodgdon 4227 and Lil’ Gun are powders to try but for your starting point, the above tactics should produce results. This load will give you 2,425 fps or a bit more.
Should the above fail, switch to the 46-grain Speer Bee bullet seated to touch the lands - but not jammed into them - and 10.4 grains of Winchester 296.
As stated, later on you will try lots of powders and bullets but to establish an accuracy base line, the above techniques should produce results. These loads are not the fastest but they have proven accurate in a variety of chambers.
All of this assumes the rifle shoots reasonably round groups of 1 ½” with few fliers.
Again, my experience has been that few older Hornet rifles have been shot very much. It is a good idea to clean the barrel.
I had several 22 Hornet rifles which have given me fits while attempting to reduce group size under 1 ½” at 100 hundred yards. Here is what worked for me:
First, use brass of all the same brand, preferably new.
Trim this brass to the same length.
De-burr the case mouths and flash holes, uniform the primer pockets.
Fire the brass in your chamber, neck size the cases and seat the bullets no more than .224” deep.
Use a high quality bullet such as the Nosler Ballistic tip for your accuracy test. I suggest the 45-grain Ballistic Tip and 10.0 grains of Winchester 296 or Hodgdon 110 for a start, seating the bullet just short of the lands. Use rifle primers.
Later when you have established your rifle will shoot, IMR or Hodgdon 4227 and Lil’ Gun are powders to try but for your starting point, the above tactics should produce results. This load will give you 2,425 fps or a bit more.
Should the above fail, switch to the 46-grain Speer Bee bullet seated to touch the lands - but not jammed into them - and 10.4 grains of Winchester 296.
As stated, later on you will try lots of powders and bullets but to establish an accuracy base line, the above techniques should produce results. These loads are not the fastest but they have proven accurate in a variety of chambers.
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4,082 Posts
My very first .22 Hornet Rifle was a Savage Model 340, which I found very accurate. While factory loads shot very well (Back then .22 Hornet Ammo cost $7.05/50); I found my most accuracy load using IMR-4227 & a 40 grain "Hornet" bullet by Sierra. Groups averaged around .375" @ 100 yards for my reloads & around 1.00" for the factory ammo. The 340 barrel had a 1-in-16" twist.
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You can reload the Hornet a **** of alot cheaper than you can buy 17HMR ammo. I would never think of buying a .17 anything if I had a Hornet.
I started out reloading for my father's hornet when i was 16 and I used the Lee Loader. You can still buy the Lee Loader kits for under $20 and load ammo for the Hornet on the kitchen table.
I started out reloading for my father's hornet when i was 16 and I used the Lee Loader. You can still buy the Lee Loader kits for under $20 and load ammo for the Hornet on the kitchen table.
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I completely understand. All I'm saying is that with a small investment, you may very well find yourself shooting the Hornet more than the .17HMR. The Hornet is capable of killing 'chucks out to 175-200yds if the wind is calm, and it's a legal deer gun in my state too.
My Dad has a 340 in .222. I doubt if it has had more than a box or two put through it in its lifetime. I know it is at least 70's era, and possibly 50's or 60's. Anyone own one in .222 that they can report on? I am sure I can arrange a long term borrow of the rifle if it is worthwhile. I am kind of intrigued with it, and would likely buy the dies and start loading for it.
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You will be able to make the 222 Remington shine in many ways. The 222 is a good bench rest cartridge in a heavier rifle, a good cast bullet cartridge in most all rifles. For me the 222 Remington shines with Hornet equivalent loads. I particularly like the 222 using 45-grain hornet bullets driven at velocities under 2,500 fps. I have received “magic” accuracy results with economical loads and using bulk bullets.
If you get the opportunity to play with the 222 start of with IMR or Hodgdon 4198 and then move to the hornet bullets using faster powders such as Alliant 2400 or IMR 4227. These lower velocity loads are powerful and accurate with low noise.
If you get the opportunity to play with the 222 start of with IMR or Hodgdon 4198 and then move to the hornet bullets using faster powders such as Alliant 2400 or IMR 4227. These lower velocity loads are powerful and accurate with low noise.
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53 Posts
the triple deuce is a **** of an accurate round but I have no experience in the 340. I had a 340 in 30-30, which was cool since I could load pointed bullets due to the magazine. This was long before the Hornady Lever ammo.
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