Shooting grip question
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IME, whether it be that the pad of your finger, the joint, or anywhere in between, the correct position is where the sights do not shift when the hammer drops. Try dry firing your revolver pointing at a blank wall and really concentrate on your sight alignment while trying different positions with your trigger finger. When you find the position where you can drop the hammer without any shifting of the sights, this is where you want your finger to be on the trigger.
You will also need a firm, consistent grip and a locked wrist firing any handgun. Not a "death grip" where your hand trembles, just a firm grip.
You have little control over where your revolver recoils so don't worry about it. Just concentrate on dropping the hammer without shifting the sights and you will do just fine.
You will also need a firm, consistent grip and a locked wrist firing any handgun. Not a "death grip" where your hand trembles, just a firm grip.
You have little control over where your revolver recoils so don't worry about it. Just concentrate on dropping the hammer without shifting the sights and you will do just fine.
You can find a diagnostic target at www.m1911.org/technic.htm
The fingers of the hand are prone to sympathetic movement - when one moves, the others tend to move at the same time and in the same direction. This is especially true of the ring and pinky fingers as the trigger finger moves. Do that, however little, and your shots go down and left. Jerking the trigger will do pretty much the same thing.
Pete
The fingers of the hand are prone to sympathetic movement - when one moves, the others tend to move at the same time and in the same direction. This is especially true of the ring and pinky fingers as the trigger finger moves. Do that, however little, and your shots go down and left. Jerking the trigger will do pretty much the same thing.
Pete
Grip
SOM,
Your comment of "low left" would appear to say you are a right handed shooter...??? Low and left is usually an indicator that the shooter is "wanking" or jerking his shot...therefore moving his muzzle off the target and "low and left". Marshall Kane's suggestion and NOW mine is to cease with the live fire and concentrate on lots of Dry Practice....follow what he has recommended and work on your trigger control. There maybe a bit of trigger finger position in your problem, but for now, I need you to focus on TRIGGER CONTROL. If your weapon has any "slack" in it(that is trigger movement to the rear with no movement of the internal trigger mechanism parts). Then go to a safe and quiet location, anywhere in your home, preferably in the basement, put a 3" X 5" card on the wall with a 1" dia. black circle on it on the wall, about 6' high. Mark a spot on the floor approx. 5 meters from that wall. This will be your DP area. When you are ready, get into whatever grip and stance you prefer..Point in at the black dot(COM), focus on the front sight 110% and take any and all slack out of the trigger, when you feel "mechanical resistance" pause a second.then start SLOW steady pressure straight to the rear, until the shot breaks. While all this is going on....you are focusing and comcentrating on the FRONT SIGHT. Forget all else in the world....your attention is 100% per cent on the front sight. Now, this exercise is just practice to ingrain and learn the proper relationship of your trigger finger movement and the movement of your particular trigger as it relates to firing this weapon. You will need to devote many hours to the DP technique to get a ":repeatable swing"...alitle golf lingo there. In other words, you will need to be able to do this on "auotmatic pilot".. DP is the ONLY way you will be able to elevate your skills with a handgun...In your case "Shooting is bad for Shooting"...!!!
I have a book out called "Defensive Handgun Skills" which is available at Border's, B&N and Amazon.com on the internet. If you are truly interested in improving your handgun skills, then may I recommend you obtain a copy of it. ISBN # is 13- 9781440213816. It sells for $16.99. There are dozens of high quality photos showing each step of a particular technique.
Good luck with this project and if you have any further questions on this subject....you can PM me and I will gladly respond..
SOM,
Your comment of "low left" would appear to say you are a right handed shooter...??? Low and left is usually an indicator that the shooter is "wanking" or jerking his shot...therefore moving his muzzle off the target and "low and left". Marshall Kane's suggestion and NOW mine is to cease with the live fire and concentrate on lots of Dry Practice....follow what he has recommended and work on your trigger control. There maybe a bit of trigger finger position in your problem, but for now, I need you to focus on TRIGGER CONTROL. If your weapon has any "slack" in it(that is trigger movement to the rear with no movement of the internal trigger mechanism parts). Then go to a safe and quiet location, anywhere in your home, preferably in the basement, put a 3" X 5" card on the wall with a 1" dia. black circle on it on the wall, about 6' high. Mark a spot on the floor approx. 5 meters from that wall. This will be your DP area. When you are ready, get into whatever grip and stance you prefer..Point in at the black dot(COM), focus on the front sight 110% and take any and all slack out of the trigger, when you feel "mechanical resistance" pause a second.then start SLOW steady pressure straight to the rear, until the shot breaks. While all this is going on....you are focusing and comcentrating on the FRONT SIGHT. Forget all else in the world....your attention is 100% per cent on the front sight. Now, this exercise is just practice to ingrain and learn the proper relationship of your trigger finger movement and the movement of your particular trigger as it relates to firing this weapon. You will need to devote many hours to the DP technique to get a ":repeatable swing"...alitle golf lingo there. In other words, you will need to be able to do this on "auotmatic pilot".. DP is the ONLY way you will be able to elevate your skills with a handgun...In your case "Shooting is bad for Shooting"...!!!
I have a book out called "Defensive Handgun Skills" which is available at Border's, B&N and Amazon.com on the internet. If you are truly interested in improving your handgun skills, then may I recommend you obtain a copy of it. ISBN # is 13- 9781440213816. It sells for $16.99. There are dozens of high quality photos showing each step of a particular technique.
Good luck with this project and if you have any further questions on this subject....you can PM me and I will gladly respond..
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816 Posts
Good advice so far I'll add one thing. Make sure when you are going through the process of squeezing the trigger you are not tightening your grip on that hand at the same time. Do this test: with and unloaded gun and your little target on the wall suggested by Rangeguy, assume your stance and grip. Now, line your sights up and squeeze the grip of the pistol nice firm with the hand of your trigger finger, then tighter, and tight as you can.. You will see that the sights move off target the harder you grip. Lots of people do this and never realize they have done it. You want to try and maintain the same grip through the entire firing process. There's no substitute for proper practice. Good luck, you'll get it worked out.
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4,740 Posts
Once you've found a position for your trigger finger that doesn't change your sight alignment when the hammer drops, you know that your squeezing the trigger straight back and not off to any side or up/down.
I worked on this for hours with my 1911 until the sights hardly moved when the hammer dropped. Also, I started aiming at a blank wall so that I could focus on the sights without being distracted by having to aim at a target. I graduated to including the target when I accomplished the first objective.
When you start working with a target, be aware that your handgun will "wobble" that is, move. It's natural with all of us. Wobble increases the longer you are in the shooting position. The trick is to get the shot off sooner than later and to never lose your sight alignment. Even with a slight wobble, if you maintain perfect sight alignment when the hammer falls, you are most likely to still put your shot in the black. As far as getting the shot off when you have a perfect sight picture (sights aligned and positioned tangent to the target at the 6 o'clock position) forget about it as this will encourage "jerking" the trigger and wild shots. Learn to live with "wobble" but never lose sight alignment while you're SQUEEZING the trigger. Best wishes.
I worked on this for hours with my 1911 until the sights hardly moved when the hammer dropped. Also, I started aiming at a blank wall so that I could focus on the sights without being distracted by having to aim at a target. I graduated to including the target when I accomplished the first objective.
When you start working with a target, be aware that your handgun will "wobble" that is, move. It's natural with all of us. Wobble increases the longer you are in the shooting position. The trick is to get the shot off sooner than later and to never lose your sight alignment. Even with a slight wobble, if you maintain perfect sight alignment when the hammer falls, you are most likely to still put your shot in the black. As far as getting the shot off when you have a perfect sight picture (sights aligned and positioned tangent to the target at the 6 o'clock position) forget about it as this will encourage "jerking" the trigger and wild shots. Learn to live with "wobble" but never lose sight alignment while you're SQUEEZING the trigger. Best wishes.
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