Sighting in a new Tikka 300
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Well, you're off to a good start. But, only a start.
Zero dead center at 25 yds, then move on out to 100 yds to verify grouping. Most centerfires will print from a couple to several inches high at 100 after zeroing at 25.
You can never rely on just grouping at 25 and calling it good. Sorta like chronographing loads, zeroing at 100 yds and then using the ballistics tables to adjust for farther distances. If you don't verify exactly where your rifle is grouping at the distances you anticipate hunting, all you're doing is guessing and that can have sad results when hunting.
Zero dead center at 25 yds, then move on out to 100 yds to verify grouping. Most centerfires will print from a couple to several inches high at 100 after zeroing at 25.
You can never rely on just grouping at 25 and calling it good. Sorta like chronographing loads, zeroing at 100 yds and then using the ballistics tables to adjust for farther distances. If you don't verify exactly where your rifle is grouping at the distances you anticipate hunting, all you're doing is guessing and that can have sad results when hunting.
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3,918 Posts
Which .300 ? What ammo are you using ?
For example, my .338 Win Mag with 250gr Partitions at 2700, is dead on at 200 yards, and is 1/8" low at 25 yards. Dead zero at 25 yards, moves my zero out to 225 yards. My .264 (when it gets here), should be about a 1/2" low at 25, and dead on at 200.
A .300 WSM/ .300 Win with a 180 Accubond moving 2950, will be -0.35" at 25 yards and dead on at 200.
So far, chrono numbers and ballistic programs have not failed me, but as he said, practice at the ranges you intend to shoot, and dont just make a guess out of it.
For example, my .338 Win Mag with 250gr Partitions at 2700, is dead on at 200 yards, and is 1/8" low at 25 yards. Dead zero at 25 yards, moves my zero out to 225 yards. My .264 (when it gets here), should be about a 1/2" low at 25, and dead on at 200.
A .300 WSM/ .300 Win with a 180 Accubond moving 2950, will be -0.35" at 25 yards and dead on at 200.
So far, chrono numbers and ballistic programs have not failed me, but as he said, practice at the ranges you intend to shoot, and dont just make a guess out of it.
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109 Posts
Congrats on the Tikka
First of all congrats on the Tikka, I recently got a used M695 in 30/06, but it is new to me. If the barrel does not have Made In USA stamped on it, then I reckon Made in Finland would be my personal next best choice. I can't wait to hunt with it. It's gonna me be my "go out west" and "black bear, wild boar, and long range deer" rifle.
I have to agree with the above posts. You are good to go by zeroing at 25 yards (or a hair low) because it gets you real close to where you wanna be at longer ranges. You'll probably want a 200 or so yard zero with the 300. It's a great round. Have fun..... gobble gobble
First of all congrats on the Tikka, I recently got a used M695 in 30/06, but it is new to me. If the barrel does not have Made In USA stamped on it, then I reckon Made in Finland would be my personal next best choice. I can't wait to hunt with it. It's gonna me be my "go out west" and "black bear, wild boar, and long range deer" rifle.
I have to agree with the above posts. You are good to go by zeroing at 25 yards (or a hair low) because it gets you real close to where you wanna be at longer ranges. You'll probably want a 200 or so yard zero with the 300. It's a great round. Have fun..... gobble gobble
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1,818 Posts
A 25 yard zero is a start at sighting a rifle, not an end point. It is useful as such, but you must do some more work.
It will get you on the paper at longer ranges, but you cannot use such short range sighting as your final sight adjustment. You MUST shoot it at longer ranges.
It will get you on the paper at longer ranges, but you cannot use such short range sighting as your final sight adjustment. You MUST shoot it at longer ranges.
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