I have a converted Spanish small ring Mauser that was converted by a reputable armory that is stamped .308 Win. The only way that I'd shoot it very much with .308 is with a LOOOONG string and an oak tree. I might rechamber it, but it will be a LOW power round.
Small Ring Chilean Mauser
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The most important check of an early action can be done best with the barrel removed, but a little mirror will do.
The first indication of set back in any action with a split lug is a shiny ridge running north and south in the upper locking lug recess.
This is the metal that has been extruded into the ejector slot in the left lug. In other words, the lug has set back by the amount of protrusion of that ridge.
Mechanically, that ridge gives a false headspace reading when using a gauge. So the larger the ridge gets the greater the headspace but it doesn't show up correctly with a gauge unless the bolt is closed but the ridge stops rotation before its complete.
Shown is the tool that shows the ridge on the first swipe and corrects it to flush with three to thirty rotations. The ridge shown below is less than half a thousandths high and probably caused by the proof rounds. Three swipes with the tool will help.
This is especially important on all the early Mausers and Model 98s made before 1924 and some up to 1935 when alloy steels were used and through heat-treat began.
The earlier the Mauser the thinner the case hardening is likely to be. Actions made for many militaries were limited use rifles. This is especially true of M95s made after the Model 98 was the 'standard'. Chile bought a quarter of a million Model 95s at a substantial discount in 1912. Mausers are the Timex of the gun world and will keep shooting until the smoke bothers you.
Once the lug set back, its easier to set it back more by continued shooting.
Consider that ridge a caution sign. Some can be felt with a fingertip but a little dental mirror is better.
You will find M93 and M95s especially that were hammered into 'worn out' before they were sold as surplus by the pound.
The first indication of set back in any action with a split lug is a shiny ridge running north and south in the upper locking lug recess.
This is the metal that has been extruded into the ejector slot in the left lug. In other words, the lug has set back by the amount of protrusion of that ridge.
Mechanically, that ridge gives a false headspace reading when using a gauge. So the larger the ridge gets the greater the headspace but it doesn't show up correctly with a gauge unless the bolt is closed but the ridge stops rotation before its complete.
Shown is the tool that shows the ridge on the first swipe and corrects it to flush with three to thirty rotations. The ridge shown below is less than half a thousandths high and probably caused by the proof rounds. Three swipes with the tool will help.
This is especially important on all the early Mausers and Model 98s made before 1924 and some up to 1935 when alloy steels were used and through heat-treat began.
The earlier the Mauser the thinner the case hardening is likely to be. Actions made for many militaries were limited use rifles. This is especially true of M95s made after the Model 98 was the 'standard'. Chile bought a quarter of a million Model 95s at a substantial discount in 1912. Mausers are the Timex of the gun world and will keep shooting until the smoke bothers you.
Once the lug set back, its easier to set it back more by continued shooting.
Consider that ridge a caution sign. Some can be felt with a fingertip but a little dental mirror is better.
You will find M93 and M95s especially that were hammered into 'worn out' before they were sold as surplus by the pound.
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