Hippie, Depending on how deep they are, I've had very good luck with "Blending" pads. These are nothing more than different coarseness grades of scotch brite pads. You can try a scotch brite pad, however these would be considered a "Fine" grade. I have some pads from Brownells that are different grades.
I had bought a S/S Model 66 Smith used at one time and the bottom of the trigger guard was all banged up from holster carry. I simply filed off the nicks with a fine file, then went to a coarse sand paper to continue shaping and finely down to the blending pads to match the overall gun's finish. Came out well. If you want a high polish, you'll have to do some mechanical buffing on a wheel. I've never had to do that though.
If it's a bead blasted area, it'll have to be reblasted after the gouge is removed naturally.
Apply a good wax afterward if it's a smooth finish.
If I may..I would like to add that I have never found anything to match Flitz in taking off the powder stains on the front of cyliders, etc. It will not take out scratchs,etc. It is the best I've seen inside of the barrels also. Flitz has a web page and it can be bought online.
Friend Contender....Have you tried those two in the barrels? If they remove the powder tarnish like Flitz, I'm going to try them. We also mix Flitz with jewelers rouge #1 and polish stainless barrels inside. Sure works great on stainless muzzleloaders to reduce residue.
Best Regards, james
Never thought to use them in the barrel. Sounds like a good idea!
The Simichrome is made in Germany and is a very fine polish popular with the antique car people. It has been out a very long time. I'm sure you can get it locally. It also leaves a protective coating that resists further tarnishing.
The "Wonderful" Weenol I've gotten from a guy at a flea market up by me. Haven't seen it in a couple years though around here. I don't see anything on the web either. This was a German product too. I have a little of it left.
I have a T/C Grey Hawk muzzleloader that I should try it on. Good Idea! I have some rouge for my corn cob media but I'm unsure as to it's grit grade.
There is also a product called Autosol which is made in Germany and sold by the Eastwood Company;http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe Check it out.
This is also a great company for some novel products. I use their "Corroless" rust inhibiting coating. Great stuff!
Contender...I also have a TC .50 Grayhawk...Great all weather rifle..I found no constrictions in the barrel. I've Flitz/rouged it three times and after each time the groups tighten up and less residue. We all switched over to Elephant Brand...Much beyyer than Goex!!!! Another little trick...You can find thse little plastic tubes that slip over the nipple and leave a small part of the cap clear. We use them all the time down here in this damp climate. They work great.
Best Regards, James
I actually had to go the opposite direction when I bought my .357 Ruger Blackhawk. The previous owner machine polished it to a mirror finish, actually thought it was chrome or nickel plated at first. Took a piece of 0000 steel wool and worked an inconspicuous place on the bottom of grip frame and realized it was highly polished stainless. I went to an auto parts store and picked up some auto body sponges by 3M. you can get anything from 300 grit to 1800 grit. Stainless has a grain direction to it from the machining processes I think. I started by taking the grips off and using 1000 grit rubbing in the direction of the grain. It worked really well but still a little too shiny for me. I was using this revolver for deer last year and was not concerned about the deer seeing it but in bright sun light and snow cover the glare off the barrel bothered me. I ended up going over the revolver with 600 grit and it did the trick. After the season I wanted to see if I could add a little more shine to it just for my info and I did the grip area with 800 grit then very lightly with 1200 grit and it brought the shine right back. I now keep several in my misc. cleaning supplies, also works very well taking the black of the front of a dirty cylinder etc. with very little effort using1200 grit. They are very reasonably priced at a couple bucks a piece and last a long time. You can also cut them in smaller pieces to fit tight spaces. By the way got my first white tail with it last year, used 158 grain hornady XTP and a max load of H110 and it was a clean one shot kill at about 30 yards. I was on the fence about using a .357 but NSB and others on this forum reassured me that if I did my part within my abilities it would do the job. I am hooked now handgun hunting and in the off season I bought a Ruger Super Blackhawk Hunter and mounted a Millett red dot on it Because I can't see open sights that well any more. I have been shooting it out to 100 yrds. Red dot really makes a difference for me and I can consistently hit a 10" plate, I really get a kick out of hearing that clang and seeing that plate swinging. I don't think I would stretch a shot at a deer much past 75yds. but I have rarely shot a deer over 50 yds. in the area I have hunted for 40 years now. I can remember 1 shot at about 300 yards on a gas line, used a 7mm mag. Gave that spot to my son 15 years ago and he gets his buck there every year. Never regretted giving that spot up I love when I hear him shoot I get just as much of a thrill seeing him getting his deer every year as I do getting one myself besides I have walked more than sitting for the last 15 years. I am using my .44 this year but if I didn't have it I would not hesitate to take my .357 Probably will give it to my son soon. Bought him a .300 WSM this year so maybe next year. Sorry I am rambling but season is getting close and I am getting excited. Good luck getting the marks off the Ruger SBH great gun.
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