lossking: I've been through dissembly of the Sterlingworth and I was unable to find any printed take down info. Get a pad of fullscap and start making careful notes and drawing sketches as you go.
For a start you will see the screw or screws depending on tang that hold the back of the trigger guard in- remove that/those and elevate the trigger guard tang and the trigger guard will then unscrew from the trigger plate.
There are a couple of screws that hold the tangs together, they have to be removed. One from the bottom and one from under the top lever if I recall correctly. The stock will not come off at this point although it may feel loose. If you try to force it you will cause damage to sears or the safety connector.
The large screw that holds the front end of the trigger plate (bottom steel insert in the belly of the action ) has to come out. Then rap the trigger plate and surrounding action area carefully with a small safe mallet ( smooth plastic, lead, hardwood) until it starts to separate from the action body. Carefully remove it without any prying that will damage the fitted edge. Do this with the bottom of the shotgun facing up or you will lose the spring and ball that actuate the top lever closing release. Pay attention to where these two small parts came from as they have to go back when you reassemble.
The safety is linked by an extended shaft that fits into components on the trigger plate. When you put her back together these have to be positioned correctly to have a functioning safety. There is a small steel rod inside the stock that is fitted to the automatic safety feature, so don't lose that when you take the stock off (unless you prefer a manual safety as I do) and pay attention to where it goes and how it must engage.
Once the stock is off I suggest you reassemble the parts you've removed with the exception of the auto safety rod to see how they fit together and function.
Sometimes the trigger plate screw is frozen in place with congealed oil and dirt. You want a very good fitting screwdriver a lot of penetrating oil and patience to let the oil work. You may have to tap the butt of the screwdriver with a mallet while applying torque to the screwdiver. You may also have to try heating this screw with the tip of a large soldering iron to soften the congealed oil (varnish). If it is tough don't be impatient. I had mine soaking in penetrating oil for a week before I could break it loose without damage to the screw slot. The rest is too complicated to describe here and I couldn't remember it without going through the notes and sketches procedure again anyhow. How ever that will get your stock off.
BCstocker, many thanks for your detailed description and valuable suggestions. I had no idea the process was so involved but, even though I am fairly handy with most modern guns, I knew I shouldn't just wade in to the Fox. Thanks again. When I get up the nerve, I will do it.
lossking: If all you want is to take the stock off you should be able to work from the description. I tore mine completly down and it gets a little complicated as you get past what I described for you.
lossking: It had been a while since I tore mine down and I forgot a key point. I just got another one in the shop to refinish the stock so I've refreshed my memory a bit today.
After you've got the trigger guard, trigger plate and attaching screws removed you will also have to drift out the cross pin in the lower rear corner of the receiver which retains the two long
(L &R ) sears. The action won't slide clear of one of the wood projections as the sears will snag on it. If you try to force the sears over this projection you run the risk of bending the sears.
Depending on how your stock is inletted you may also have to remove the safety by taking out the very small retaining pin that holds it in. There is a small leaf spring under the pin so careful not to loose it. Just pay attention to how these parts are placed before you remove them.
As a detail the top lever spring and release are a spring and plunger rather than a spring and ball.
When you reassemble the sears and cross pin it helps to have a slightly undersized slave pin (which I made from a common nail) to hold things in place while the proper pin is tapped gently back into place.
Thanks for the additional info, BCstocker. I haven't had the time yet to remove my stock, but need to do so to repair a small chip and to lube the action a bit. As soon as I can find the time for that, amid my other projects, and the "cahunas" to tackle it, I will do so. Then, your good advice will be much appreciated. Eventually, I'll let you know how it worked out. Regards.
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