I'd say clamp the barrel securely in a well padded vice, swing out or remove the cylinder and drive the slug back to the breach end with a close fitting brass rod or wood dowel and heavy hammer. Use the weight of the hammer head itself to do the work. Carefully.
As an added thought, spray the barrel down a bit with a good lube to aid in it's removal.
The guys are right on technique.
This is really not a big deal. It usually happens when people are trying low loads with cast bullets prepared with "Fire Lapping compound". This is a procedure which Veral Smith advised when Firelaping barrels.
The idea is to use a low vlocity with the prepared bullets so as "not" to upset the size of the bullet. In this way an excellent lapping can be given to the barrel.
Just take a wooden dowel that will fit in the barrel and hammer it out with caution, as prescribed. You won't hurt the barrel!
Now, CAUTION, CAUTION,CAUTION!!!
When you use this method of firelapping (and this is the best way) use a target/stop such as a cardboard box with rags are something stuffed in it. CHECK and MAKE SURE there is a new bullet hole everytime you shoot!!! If not, guess what, bullet gets stuck in barrel! Sound familiar?
I guess I will get a hardwood dowel just under bore size and put some Kroil in the bore and give it a good whack! Thanks. I am also going to start useing a Redding Profile Crimp die to try to get a firmer ,consistent crimp for better ignition.
Check the diameter of your expander plug also. It should be at least 0.003" under bullet diameter for a tight bullet fit, 0.005" even better. This contributes to the grip of the case on the bullet quite a bit, the crimp can't do it all.
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