Believe it or not, for the most part i'm basically happy w/ the trigger actions on my 'stock' Ruger Single-Actions [while the trigger-pull is on the heavy side (i haven't gotten around to any of the 'fixes' for that, yet- the cheap one or otherwise) they break quite cleanly and that's as or more important to me] however all of them have overtravel [one not much but the other two relatively quite a bit] and [judging by the one that has only a little] i think i'd probably be able to shoot them better if they had less or none. Is it safe to put some kind of overtravel stop on the trigger? I THINK i could probably come up with an adjustable something that would work but just don't know if something like that is safe, possible or a waste of time [or could i get some kind of aftermarket trigger with that built-in to it or a 'machineable' stop that could be customizable to the particular firearms?] Or does the design of the trigger mechanism [pivoting on a pin] make that kind of precision impractical or impossible? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Trigger overtravel
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Joined
·
47 Posts
Milt Morrison at QPR puts a nice trigger stop in and it is adjustable for wear. Price quite reasonable too.
Contact him at www.qpr-inc.com
Contact him at www.qpr-inc.com
You don't say if the Blackhawks are old models, or new. The trigger spring mechanism is very different between the two.
The way I did it, on my Old Army, which will work on all old models, is to weld steel on the back end of the trigger spring plunger (braze is probably fine). It takes aprox 1/16 inch. This is a trial and error deal, and you must reassemble to check it.
If you cannot cock the revolver, you need to grind a little off, until you can just cock it. I put a thin feeler gage, .001-.002 between the button and the trigger and fit until it will just cock with the feeler in there.
This mod cut my group size in half, on the Old Army.
The SBH will get this treatment soon.
You only need to take the grips and grip frame off, to do this. Don't dissasemble anything else.
It might be feasable to put a screw in the bottom of the hole, instead of welding, but you would lneed a long drill bit and a long tap.
Dan
The way I did it, on my Old Army, which will work on all old models, is to weld steel on the back end of the trigger spring plunger (braze is probably fine). It takes aprox 1/16 inch. This is a trial and error deal, and you must reassemble to check it.
If you cannot cock the revolver, you need to grind a little off, until you can just cock it. I put a thin feeler gage, .001-.002 between the button and the trigger and fit until it will just cock with the feeler in there.
This mod cut my group size in half, on the Old Army.
The SBH will get this treatment soon.
You only need to take the grips and grip frame off, to do this. Don't dissasemble anything else.
It might be feasable to put a screw in the bottom of the hole, instead of welding, but you would lneed a long drill bit and a long tap.
Dan
If your Ruger is a new model, I suspect using Qualite might indeed be the way to go. I've seen and handled their work, at gun shows, and I'm impressed with it.
Neither of my Vaqueros has enough overtravel to be of concern, so i haven't taken the time to figure out how to do it.
Dan
Neither of my Vaqueros has enough overtravel to be of concern, so i haven't taken the time to figure out how to do it.
Dan
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Join the discussion
Shooters Forum
A forum community dedicated to Sport shooters, owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, hand casting bullets, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!