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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, haven't posted here in a while.
I have a Glock23 (1st generation slide &2nd generation frame).
The feed ramp is cut into the chamber in such a way that a portion of the chamber is unsupported, leading to a bulge in the case web over many reloads (so called "Glock bulge")
The 10mmAuto case should be tougher/stronger in the case web area, so i was wondering whether it would be a good idea to trim some 10mm cases back to .40S&W size. This would probably allow better performance with lower chance of the "Glock bulge" to occur.
It has been suggested that the Glock ejector will be dangerously close to the Large Pistol Primer and that his could pose problems.
I would like a second opinion please.
Happy reloading!
 

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If the brass is thicker, the finished case will have less capacity so the loads will have to be smaller and you'll be on your own to establish them. It may also have a wall that, like the .45 ACP, gets thicker below the where the base of normal weight bullets go. Such a case, if shortened, may then also have to be reamed on the inside so the brass over the bullet base isn't so thick it swells to a size too large to chamber. This can vary by case brand.

I've never torn down a .40 cal. Glock, so I don't know exactly where the ejector hits the case. Obviously that doesn't matter much in normal operation, but if you have to manually eject and unfired round, then you don't want it hitting the primer. In your shoes, to check that, I would resize then drill out a fired .40 S&W case primer pocket with a 7/32" drill bit (just a little wider than a 0.210" large primer pocket), then color the case head with Magic Marker and cycle it a few times. See where the ejector actually marks it.

All that said, long trimming and maybe also reaming lots of brass is time consuming. In your shoes, I would just be looking for an aftermarket barrel with better chamber support. Lone Wolf is a brand I've heard mentioned before that has better chamber support and conventional rifling for lead bullet shooting. Beware a tighter barrel can lead to feed issues you'll have to resolve, so you want to ask other folks who've tried them. I don't own a Glock so I haven't kept up with that, so do your homework before buying.
 

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It will make no difference.. plus the 40 cases are cheap.. and the 10mm cases are not cheap.. the labor involved is not Free and you'll get a product that is not any better...do your self a favor buy lee's Bulge buster die and save you self some some work and money.. OR I'll sell ya some 40 cases at a good price.. :D.. B2B
 

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I have two gen 3 Glocks in .40 S&W and I haven't really noticed a bulge any bigger than other brands of .40 guns. Maybe they tightened up the chamber with them. However, I did buy an aftermarket barrel (works in both the 23 and 27) so I could shoot cast bullets and it has a fully supported case head and tighter chamber overall. Mine is a Lone Wolf barrel and it works great. Have also had a Storm Lake barrel for a 9 that was fine. So, for a lot less trouble and maybe $100 or less, you can just shoot .40 brass in your .40 with no worries about bulges.
 

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Alternate suggestion: Shoot mid-afternoons on Sundays at your local range. Sundays is usually the last day of the shooting week and many ranges won't get cleaned up until Mondays. Shoot at the end of the range where the new shooters shoot. Most of the new shooters aren't into reloading yet so they tend to leave their once-fired brass on the ground. I don't have to elaborate at this point except to say that the pickings for many of the most popular calibers are exceptionally plentiful.

You shouldn't have a problem with a supply of shootable .40 S&W brass again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies!
The replacement barrel would be the ideal, but in South Africa you cant just buy one "over the counter" , you need to apply for a barrel change along with a letter from a gunsmith supplying the reasons for such a barrel change. If the Central Firearms Registry approves, they issue you with a new license card with details of new barrel. Whole lotta red tape- I envy you guys in the states.. :(
I will have a look at the Lee bulge buster die, see if available locally, otherwise import one
 

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I didn't realize there would be a problem with obtaining a replacement barrel. Yes, many of us in the United States, but not all, enjoy great freedom in obtaining and using firearms. I bought a Lee "bulge buster" kit recently because I shoot lots of .40 and it wasn't very expensive. It will work with several other calibers besides .40 too. I have run a bunch of .40 brass through it and yes it does squeeze it down, but I wonder if it is accomplishing anything other than cosmetic and may be overworking the brass. I have never had a problem before shooting brass that was not squeezed down other than full length resizing. Haven't had a chance to shoot any "bulge buster" brass as I have a large supply of brass to work through. I did find that a touch of lube on every few cases greatly reduces the muscle needed to push the brass through the die, even though the Lee crimp die being used is a carbide die. I also plan to try it with .380 brass that I pick up from my concealed carry class students. In general, the .380 brass seems to have more bulge than .40 brass. I still use the Glock factory barrels in my .40's for carry (with factory ammo) but use the drop in stainless barrel exclusively when I shoot for fun, which is quite often
 

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Note that the Bulge Buster is not a die, but a tool to adapt a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die over from crimping to case straightening. So you'll need the Bulge Buster and a .40 S&W Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die.
 
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