Why can't I use round-nose bullets in my 356win
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Not recommended for lever guns as the nose of the bullet contacts the primer of the round ahead of it in the magazine tube.
If the flat on the nose is smaller than the primer (.210" for large pistol/rifle) then there is some risk of recoil driving rounds in the magazine together and setting one off.
True round nose bullets have been used in lever guns in the past and will continue to be in the future, I'm sure. If the recoil is light enough and the bullet nose is soft enough then there is probably little risk. Many round nose bullets are flat across the nose, for all practical purposes.
You'll just have to check out the nose on the bullet that you are interested in using, and decide for yourself if it is going to be safe.
My own thoughts are, with my left hand wrapped around that mag tube I'd just as soon not have a round go off in the mag! So I'd be inclined to make sure that the bullets have a nice big flat on the nose.
As always, the bullet manufacturer can probably give you a recommendation one way or the other.
If the flat on the nose is smaller than the primer (.210" for large pistol/rifle) then there is some risk of recoil driving rounds in the magazine together and setting one off.
True round nose bullets have been used in lever guns in the past and will continue to be in the future, I'm sure. If the recoil is light enough and the bullet nose is soft enough then there is probably little risk. Many round nose bullets are flat across the nose, for all practical purposes.
You'll just have to check out the nose on the bullet that you are interested in using, and decide for yourself if it is going to be safe.
My own thoughts are, with my left hand wrapped around that mag tube I'd just as soon not have a round go off in the mag! So I'd be inclined to make sure that the bullets have a nice big flat on the nose.
As always, the bullet manufacturer can probably give you a recommendation one way or the other.
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7,768 Posts
Hi, Norville:
Hornady #4 and Sierra #4 don't have data on the .356, so they may not recommend their bullets in it, or they just might not have got around to it. The Hornady RN has a pretty tough nose and I'd pass on it. The Sierra's nose is practically flat and you may want to give them a call.
<a href="http://www.sierrabullets.com
" target="_blank">http://www.sierrabullets.com
</a> The Remington's nose is rounder, but it has the most lead exposed and it's pretty soft. It should be OK if the Sierra is. Winchesters have a tiny flat on their nose, but I haven't seen them for sale as componets.
Be sure your primer pockets are cut to full depth. You don't want a high primer in a tubular magazine. I use the Whitetail uniformer, now available from Sinclair.
<a href="http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=RECPUN&type=store
Bye" target="_blank">http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin....e
Bye</a>
Jack
Hornady #4 and Sierra #4 don't have data on the .356, so they may not recommend their bullets in it, or they just might not have got around to it. The Hornady RN has a pretty tough nose and I'd pass on it. The Sierra's nose is practically flat and you may want to give them a call.
<a href="http://www.sierrabullets.com
" target="_blank">http://www.sierrabullets.com
</a> The Remington's nose is rounder, but it has the most lead exposed and it's pretty soft. It should be OK if the Sierra is. Winchesters have a tiny flat on their nose, but I haven't seen them for sale as componets.
Be sure your primer pockets are cut to full depth. You don't want a high primer in a tubular magazine. I use the Whitetail uniformer, now available from Sinclair.
<a href="http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=RECPUN&type=store
Bye" target="_blank">http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin....e
Bye</a>
Jack
I really like the factory loads but at ฤ a box I should be able to meet/exceed them reloading myself.I've ordered the 220's from midway with some brass. Any suggestions for loads? I have 748 and some 3031 here.The Hodgdon #27 manual has some real wussy loads for this compaired to some of their other listings. I don't like [email protected] to the walls loads but lets kick it up a notch.The latest speer manual I think list 748 @ 49.5 max?<!--emo&???--><img src="http://beartoothbullets.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'><!--endemo-->
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
Norville,
I have been looking for loads for the 356 myself. The best I have run across so far for my needs is from the Speer manual. Their 180 Grain FN over 47 grains of Accurate 2015BR(I think it is now XMR 2015) gives a muzzle velocity of 2654 FPS out of a 20" barrel! They list it as a max. load. This exceeds the published velocities from the Lyman manual for the .308 Winchester with the 180 gr. bullet from a 26" barrel!!!
You may also want to check out some of Paco Kelly's loads over on Sixgunner.com. He has some that are very hot! One for the 180 with Reloader # 7 was giving more than 2800 FPS. That load was 8 grains over the listed max in one manual! He also has some neat light loads for the 356. Good luck
I have been looking for loads for the 356 myself. The best I have run across so far for my needs is from the Speer manual. Their 180 Grain FN over 47 grains of Accurate 2015BR(I think it is now XMR 2015) gives a muzzle velocity of 2654 FPS out of a 20" barrel! They list it as a max. load. This exceeds the published velocities from the Lyman manual for the .308 Winchester with the 180 gr. bullet from a 26" barrel!!!
You may also want to check out some of Paco Kelly's loads over on Sixgunner.com. He has some that are very hot! One for the 180 with Reloader # 7 was giving more than 2800 FPS. That load was 8 grains over the listed max in one manual! He also has some neat light loads for the 356. Good luck
Thanks for the info guy's. Has anybody used the Rem core-locks 200grs? I've had great luck with the factory loads in my 35 Rem. Will they work with the extra speed? The bullets I've recovered from deer held together great. Will they be good enough for B-bear or are the speer 220's better?
I worked up 20 of the speer 220's using an 11 th edition of a speer man I got at a show the other day.I didn't shoot them yet. I do have a problem / solution for my lyman die set. The bullet seat die is rounded and when copressing loads it rounded the tips. Not a prob for the work - up not good for hunting . So I took some JB Weld and filled the die in a little and this seemed to work.
P.S. Reb I visit Sixgunner.com a lot and I found good stuff for the 358 where exactly did you see info for the 356?
thanks
I worked up 20 of the speer 220's using an 11 th edition of a speer man I got at a show the other day.I didn't shoot them yet. I do have a problem / solution for my lyman die set. The bullet seat die is rounded and when copressing loads it rounded the tips. Not a prob for the work - up not good for hunting . So I took some JB Weld and filled the die in a little and this seemed to work.
P.S. Reb I visit Sixgunner.com a lot and I found good stuff for the 358 where exactly did you see info for the 356?
thanks
I've got a marlin 336 in 35rem, and I use the 220g speer with H4895. The book max is 36.3g for about 1925fps out of the 20" barrel. I went all the way up to 40g for this bullet and the velocity gain isn't their. Its up and down the whole way. I think H4985 is an overlooked powder in cases this size, maybe you should try some of it. As for the roundnose, put it upright on yer reloading table, smack it with a hammer and now its a FN. doug
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