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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up an unfired mod 70xtr .30-06 made I think in 1981. The spring-loaded ejector rod that sticks out of the bolt face gouges the base of the cartridge pretty good. I polished it up to a mirror finish, which helped a bit, but it still does more damage than I can live with, especially since I want to reload my cases. Anyone ever see this before and have any advice?? I've sure never seen this before. That rod needs a strong spring to do it's job but this one is just too stiff I think. Anyone ever shorten one to weaken it a tad?
 

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Are you sure the ejector rod is not stuck or binding? I've never heard of a spring being too stiff and causing the problem you describe, if the rod/pin is actually moving freely.
 

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I've never heard of a spring being too stiff and causing the problem you describe either. I owned a 7X57 in the same Winchester Model made around the same year and it didn't mark-up cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks all. All good input. The ejector pin does not seem bound up at all. I can push it in past the bolt face with a punch with no binding. I have not yet taken the bolt apart but it seems well oiled otherwise. Anyone have a clue what poundage of the pin spring should have? I could likely figure out a way to measure it on this one somehow. For clarification, I'm assuming this vintage is what is called the push feed type? It has the little sliding extractor plate on the bolt face, which I've had out and have checked. Is this why folks like the claw extractors?... those I know about, having shot some old Mausers in my youth. This system is new to me and right now, I'm not overly impressed. It's not like brass is free all the time.... I guess I should take the bolt apart just to eliminate gunk as an issue, but I have definitely checked for binding and travel.

How about the proper profile for the tip of the ejector pin? All radius or radius-flat tip? This has the latter. I polished the tip and removed a minute cutoff 'tit' leftover from the original turning operation, which helped but it still gouges. There is no sharp transition from radius to flat either. Baffling....
 

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The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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You don't have to take the bolt apart to free up the ejector button. As suggested above, hose it down with some gun degreaser, spraying directly into the ejector hole and then manipulating the button as you previously described with the punch. Hold the bolt face down when pushing in and out to allow the shipping crud to wash out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It seems that the ejector pin is actually held in by a pin on the side of the bolt? I tried punching that one out with no luck. It seems pretty tight. I've done as you suggest at least once and oil too fresh to be from 1981 came out and the extractor spring well had very fresh oil in it. Someone has oiled the bolt fairly recently. Maybe this issue is why it ended up on Gunbroker. I think I'll put the bolt into my jar of lacquer thinner in the sonic cleaner for starters. THAT will loosen anything in there that is a problem for sure. I love my sonic cleaner...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Problem solved. Sheesh! Who woulda guessed? It was an "old brass" issue. I was using some old ammo from my grandfathers stuff to function test the bolt. This stuff is old Remington UMC 'umbrella point' ammo; the box is marked 1928. It's mostly in ok shape, just dark and some have the usual split necks from age. I tried only cases with no splits. The headstamps are RA, 17 so they're military brass of the age I think. RA is Rock Island Arsenal I presume. Anyway, they just seat a tad harder than a few modern rounds I just tried that didn't get marked up at all. The newer ammo seated appreciably easier. False alarm... the ejector pin is fine... really fine now that it is all nice and polished up.
 

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Problem solved. Sheesh! Who woulda guessed? It was an "old brass" issue. I was using some old ammo from my grandfathers stuff to function test the bolt. This stuff is old Remington UMC 'umbrella point' ammo; the box is marked 1928. It's mostly in ok shape, just dark and some have the usual split necks from age. I tried only cases with no splits. The headstamps are RA, 17 so they're military brass of the age I think. RA is Rock Island Arsenal I presume. Anyway, they just seat a tad harder than a few modern rounds I just tried that didn't get marked up at all. The newer ammo seated appreciably easier. False alarm... the ejector pin is fine... really fine now that it is all nice and polished up.
We can assume the issue is solved then. Glad your Winchester M-70 is okay and that it wasn't the problem.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, problem 1 solved. If only all issues were that simple to solve. It's very nice example of that vintage Winchester-nice wood with a bit of curl. Now I just have to get the floorplate to not bind up on the front of the trigger guard when you try to close it and it'll be goodtogo.... What happened to old world craftsmanship? You shouldn't have to whack a floorplate with a leather hammer to get it latched. I can deal with this though...

Now, where did I put that leupold catalog??
 
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