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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just acquired original Winchester Model 52 .22 cal slow-lock bolt action, just like the one I had 46 yrs. ago at age 15. (this one cost a bit more than the one my Dad bought me back then.) I am no gunsmith, but can follow instructions. It misfires often, sometimes 3 in a row - just dents primer at rim like it should, but no fire. Can refire in same position and sometimes works, or rotate cartridge and try again and works. Have only tried Rem. subsonic right now.
What procedure and/or items should I check to diagnose and fix the problem?

Thanks,
DFM
 

· The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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As stated many times elsewhere on the forum, today's bulk buy .22 LR ammo is of generally poor quality compared to ammo of yesteryear. The ammo that comes in the 50/box is usually of better quality with fewer misfires per box than the bulk stuff.

Also, might consider disassembly of bolt to clean the firing pin/spring to see it that might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. The Rem. I use is boxed, bricked ammo. Regardless, I just now (since my post), really cleaned bolt assembly with solvent, and carefully cleaned chamber, bolt face, chamber face, etc. Was better, 1 misfire out of 10. Actually, the dented "misfire" dent looked as good as any of the fired shells.

Can anyone instruct me on bolt/firing pin disassembly on this old 52? I might find something amiss, but don't know how to take apart, and have not been able to find anything on the subject on internet except the newer 52's.

Thanks,
DFM
 

· The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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Here ya go - as excerpted from the NRA Illustrated Firearms Assembly, Vol. II, printed in 1964:

Breech Bolt Assembly:

"Breech bolt can be disassembled by clamping the body of the breech bolt firmly in a vise. Breech bolt handle is drawn back far enough to expose the firing pin guide pin. Drift out pin with a punch, leaving the punch in place through the pin hole. Remove firing pin plug (my note: There's a flat head screw in the back of the firing pin "knob" - this is the firing pin plug). Spring may be released by removing punch, but care should be taken to prevent forcible expulsion of spring from the firing pin. Remove firing pin and breech bolt handle to rear. In re-assembly, firing pin spring must be forced forward of pin hole in breech bolt with blade of screwddriver or similar tool to permit re-entry of firing pin spring."

Hope that gives you the info you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a lot for the instructions - they seem complete and understandable. I may just try a couple other ammo brands before I go the complete dismantling route. I will also need to see if between my gun room and my farm shop I have the proper punch, screwdrivers, etc.

Thanks again; it will be enjoyable to make this 82 year old gun fire like it was intended and relive some memories from my younger days.

DFM
 

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FWIW, I would also closely inspect (with a glass) the chamber's rim recess for powder/lube gunk or a bit of chamber wall displaced by dry-firing, creating a tiny burr.

Either can hold chambered ammo slightly out of a fully-seated condition, and the cartridge fully seats during the first FP strike, but fails to ignite, due to the cushioning effect of the slight seating movement.
When restruck, the cartridge usually ignites because it's been fully seated by the previous FP strike. or because the shooter's R&R'd it energetically.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My response late last night went out into cyberspace I guess.

I inspected chamber face. No burr or problem that would hold shell out, but what I see is an indentation, or erosion, or worn spot right where the firing pin would strike. Or possibly, is this a machined indentation originally? Or just excessive wear from 82 years of firing and dry firing?

I could see how if it is not supposed to be there, then it would instead provide "slack" behind the rim of cartridge where pin strikes. If it is causing the problem, not an easy fix I would say. Comments?

Thanks for everyone's help,
DFM
 

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Sometimes you can reshape the firing pin to give a slightly smaller "flat" striking surface. I say "flat" because sometimes a firing pin that is too sharp will "split" the priming mix and cause missfires. its also a good idea to have the firing pin beveled "ever so slightly" to make it strike nearer the center of the case and push the priming mix toward the rim ... Detailed Specs on Anschutz firing pins show this.
 

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Try some other ammo. Remington rimfire ammo is some of the worst you can buy these days. Get you a box or two of some CCI ammo and see if you have the same ratio of misfires. CCI has very consistent ignition for mid-priced rimfire ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info on possible reshape of the firing pin. I may do something in that line if nothing else less drastic works. Right now, I decided to get several different brands of high quality 22's, measure the rim thickness, and see if a difference in rim thickness and/or different strength of brass, primer compounds of different brands may give me something that will not misfire. I can then see if it also shoots well in this gun.

Just decided to go this route for the time being. I will let you folks know how it turns out.

Thanks,
DFM
 
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