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8K views 33 replies 24 participants last post by  langenc 
#1 ·
I recently bought a Winchester Model 70 SA 243win, "coyote" with a 24" stainless bull barrel with a 1-in-10" twist.
If anybody reloads for a similar rifle in 243 with a 1in10" barrel twist, and has a deadly combination for accuracy and/or precision at 100yrds and would like to share please comment below. Im looking for a great hunting combination for shooting small to medium game out to 300yrds max.
Reloaders ONLY please and thank-you.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the board.

Soliciting handloads on the internet is a questionable activity.

What works well in someone else's firearm might not work worth a hoot in yours and could be possibly dangerous. No two rifles (even identical twins) will shoot the same. Best check out what the reloading manuals and mfg'rs websites have to offer. Some, like Lyman and Nosler will also list what they found to be the most accurate in their test equipment/firearms.
 
#3 ·
kdub is, of course, correct. It is almost a waste of time to ask others what works for them. There is only one way to develop a load for your gun, and that is to develop it yourself. Pick a bullet that is good for your purposes; examine a few (a few, not just one) manuals and pick what looks like a good powder and start testing by using the "recipes" you find in the manuals. Repeat as necessary.

Any attempt to shortcut that process is just a shot in the dark (pun intended).
 
#4 ·
A couple tips to consider that seems to opine with most reloaders, is that most load developments will, produce at least two accuracy nodes, with one usually some where around mid table, and one up near or at max. But this almost always requires some extensive time spent trying different components and distances either touching, or off the lands.

The other generalized tip, is to only address and change one aspect / component at a time. If you don't approach it like this, you'll often find yourself running around in circles hopelessly trying to decipher what did or didn't work.

It's a process, one that can either be perceived as frustrating cumbersome work, or as an enjoyable and exhilarating hobby. For me it's, it's always been a rewarding and immensely enjoyable hobby.

SMOA
 
#6 ·
BurnerSF-- All the loads listed in dozens of manuals are "suitable" loads for your rifle. It's up to you to find the one that works in YOUR rifle. Nobody else can.

General rule of best accuracy is that it comes with 100% loading density. That sorts out the proper powders for the right bullets and go from there.
 
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#7 ·
I'll add that you can use the JBM ballistics site stability estimator and lengths file to find bullets that are likely to do best with your 10" twist. Those with a stability factor in the range of 1.4 to 1.7 usually are most accurate in a rifle, but Sierra recommends anything from 1.3 to 3.0 for "hunting accuracy", and many bullets are so well made now that they can actually shoot very small groups with high accuracy with stability factors of over 1.7.
 
#8 ·
Sheeezuss, next you'll be wanting us to reload 'em for you and send them to your doorstep.

Not from this kid. The best advice was already given

RJ
 
#10 ·
I have about 10 reloading hand books. Im not new to reloading, been doing it for 15 years, i just wanted to compare what others out there are doing, to see if they have a good combinations.
I just finished reloading and found out that:
Hornady 87gr V-Max bullet
IMR 4350 - 44.1gr powder
3290 fps
< 1/4" grouping at 100yrds.
and you guys are right, because my Remington 700, Ruger M77, Encore 243's and this one are all different combos.
 
#11 ·
In the interest of the OP, there some combinations that always seem to shoot well in the several .243's I've owned in the past.

I have yet to encounter a .243 that didn't shoot well to excellent with IMR7828 or the 4831's with the Sierra 100gr bullet's of any type, or Hornady's 100gr Spitzers. They will all kill antelope and deer cleanly out to that 300yd number, and even a bit more. And those components are generally available.

If you want to try a lighter bullet, like the 85gr Nosler Partition, 85gr Speer BTSP, or an 87gr Hornady Bonded, H414/W760 is another combination that does well.

Although opinions on the .243 are at least as extreme and variable as any round ever chambered, it is actually effective and reliable when "properly applied". It's suitable only when the shooter recognizes the limits, and stays in the groove. I have always had one or two.
 
#12 ·
A few years ago,? Before Savage/ Stevens,? Decided to discontinue,? It's great Model 200 Rifle.? I bought one in the Win 243.? For Coyote Hunting.My Buddy & Neighbor says that he loads his rounds with IMR 4350 Powder,? And says his groups will cover a dime @ 100 Yds etc.? I am planning to start some reloading for this Caliber.? Using the same powder also.? And see hoe it goes from there etc.?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yeah, IMR 4350, IMR 3031, and Alliance Reloader 19 are great for the 243. with the right bullet weight based on barrel length and rate of twist, and Rifle manufacture, i can almost hit the same hole more than once @ 100yrds and 1/4" group at 200. And these are Hunting bullets, not match.
 
#16 ·
.243 loads

I have a short barrelled Remington Model 7 in .243

I could not get a load to perform well using 3031 powder. On advice from this forum I procured some 4350, I started at 36 gr using CCI standard primers. I insisted on using Nosler 100gr partitions. I worked up to 38.8 gr where I got acceptable 100 yard accuracy, then I started diddling with case length and found if I seated the bullet 0.300" from the rifling accuracy improved even more. Since then I haven't looked back. It is a process and you have to follow it or you will cheat yourself out of better performance.

Good Luck
 
#33 ·
I have a short barrelled Remington Model 7 in .243

I could not get a load to perform well using 3031 powder. On advice from this forum I procured some 4350, I started at 36 gr using CCI standard primers. I insisted on using Nosler 100gr partitions. I worked up to 38.8 gr where I got acceptable 100 yard accuracy, then I started diddling with case length and found if I seated the bullet 0.300" from the rifling accuracy improved even more. Since then I haven't looked back. It is a process and you have to follow it or you will cheat yourself out of better performance.

Good Luck
I'm guess you intended to type .030", as .3" would probably put the olgive some where inside the case mouth. Darn key board, if only it could interpret my intentions.

But yes, I agree that if one doesn't perform a thorough development we may never discover the full potential of a firearm.

SMOA
 
#18 ·
If that doesnt work, make sure your scope rings are tight, scope mount is tight, scope base is tight, and sometimes i have found if you float the barrel just enough to fold a piece of paper in half and slide it from the front of the stock to the end without much tension, that helps too. Also make sure the weight of the bullet matches the rate of twist in your barrel.
 
#20 ·
Hi burnerSF. It is important to reiterate the advice you received early on: purchase two or three current reloading manuals and peruse the various loads for your caliber. You will find in those manuals a number of possibilities for a good starting point in your search. The rest is up to you to draw your own conclusions after shooting your reloads. Having reloaded for 60-some years, I learned very soon and quickly to never share the details of my reloads with other folks. These other folks invariable feel obligated to make changes in your formula and shoot these in their rifles, sometimes with disastrous results. Guess who they blame first for their ignorance? Shoot straight, be same, and have fun!!
Dan (Jayhawk_Dan)
 
#21 ·
Langenc, You didn't give what the twist of your barrel is. If it is a 1:12 some of those have trouble stabilizing 60gr well enough for tack driver accuracy. Try 50 or 55 gr.

to BurnerSF: I have a 243 with a 1:10 barrel. It does very well with varmint bullets in the 60 to 70 range. 1:10 seems to be the slow end for this caliber so smaller bullets or pushing the velocity up as high as safely possible with larger bullets seems to yield best accuracy for me. Some of the 243's have a 1:9 or 1:9.25 twist. I have one of those and it handles the 95 to 110 gr much better.
 
#22 ·
If you want to explore what others are doing with the 243, I would suggest sighing on to Load Data | The Best Reloading Manual Online and perusing what people have submitted for this caliber. I personally load for the 243 that my Grand Son hunts with, and another custom one I shoot paper with. However, as others have so well pointed out, these loads may or may not work for your rifle. Therefore I can only suggest with confidence that you will have to do it the old fashioned way, triplets, ladders, etc. But as an experienced reloader, you know the drill so I won't bore you with details. Good luck, and that should be a fine rifle for your intended use. Bore
 
#23 ·
35 or 40 years ago, I used to load for Yotes. Don't know what bullets are available now but something like Matchking hollow point boattails around 60 to 80 gr are ideal. Cannot recall which powder I used but I was able to run rounds out at 3000 fps. I hunted for pelts so I didn't want terminal damage. The bullets went straight through, never expanded, and killed the Yotes mostly because of shock. My mid-range at 300 yards was about 3-4 inches as I recall. Don't know if there is any market for Yote hides but in my time $25-$45 depending on quality was common and 100 hides a year paid for my hunting adventures. By the way, have a sidearm handy as Yotes will sometime come a-running straight at you and other times they will circle around and come in to your back. I've drilled them as close as 20 feet with my 1911.
 
#25 ·
For varmints, crows and 'yotes I've have been using the Sierra 70gr HP over near maximum charges of H380 or W760/H414. Very fast and accurate in a 1 in 10 lightweight 24 inch barrel, crows fly all apart, 'yotes are usually DRT. I use 100gr Nosler partitions over maximum charges of H4831sc for deer, but feel the bullet may be a tad long for a 10" twist as groups open quickly past 200 yards and bullet holes aren't all perfectly round. with this long bullet seating depth changes don't help groups much at all, but higher charge weights/velocity do. Watch out when getting close to maximum published charge weights, the 243 is prone to go over pressure really fast with small changes in charge weight. If I ever build another one it'll be a one in nine twist.
 
#26 ·
I have found IMR4350 to be the best accuracy wise with several bullets ranging from 58 grains, 75 grains, and 95 grains. I also had extremely good accuracy in a 105 grain bullet, but it did not perform on game.

Medium game including deer, I suppose. I trust Nosler partitions the most in 6 mm bullets (and most other diameters). I've had failures with different manufactures bullets - one in almost explosive expansion and one in zero expansion. The other manufacture of bullets that I'd trust is Hornady, but don't go with light bullets.
 
#27 ·
Win 70 Coyote 243

OMG what a bunch of "BULL" was given as a response to the request for 243 loads for his rifle, any FORUM on the WEB has requests for and responses given for loads. I have requested, was given answers to a load and as practice reduced the load 10%, some were great some not so great, hey that sounds like them books ya buy, oh yeah RELOADING MANUALS!!!!!
 
#28 ·
760 was a brilliant powder behind 70-grain TNTs in a heavy 10-twist 243 I had a few years back. The best load would only work with some (slower) powder lots, though. Other lots showed clear over-pressure using that load. Backing down was still very good precision, but the TNT effect was best at warp speed. :)

H-1000 always worked extremely well with 100-grain BTSPs in that rifle, too.
 
#29 ·
I'm a little confused as to what you call medium game, can you detail that a bit?

I have a Rem. 700 in 243 but my twist rate is is slower, how ever I shot a 6PPC in competition and it would be close to what you are shooting as it had 1-10 twist and velocity was around 3450. I started out with 66 G. bullets but went to 68 G. which was better. These were custom made bullets but the principle remains the same. I used AA2230-C for powder which is no longer available, but 2230 is very close. I also used H322 which did pretty good also.
 
#30 ·
DougG - I wouldnt use match bullets for hunting, maybe coyotes and other small varmint.

REDTAIL - In my studies and experience, IMR-4350 works with 75, 80, 85, 87, 90, 100, 105 grain bullets. as far as IMR-3031 its works well in my Ruger stainless MkII and blue M77 both with 24" barrel with 1in9" twist, with 75gr and 87gr bullets. and Reloader-19 worked well for 87, 85, 75 grain bullets with my Rem 700 24" barrel and 1in9" twist. Yes even with a 1in9" twist 75gr works well.
Im currently experimenting with my Winchester coyote and ive got hornady vmax, Hornady A-max, Hornady sst, Berger, speer, and sierra. Noslers are just too expensive right now to be playing around with them.
 
#31 ·
varget,8208xbr

i use these 2 powders for my 243, 1:9.5 twist barrel. in winchester brass,CCI primers, under nosler 55Gr BTSTips.... and with either one, once i figured out powder charge, and clearance to lands of rifling, both fire in dime to quarter size groups at 100 yds. Best loads come from fired brass, trimmed to length, and neck sized, with light crimp. I don't use compressed loads, loading in 85>90% capacity of brass.
 
#34 ·
i use these 2 powders for my 243, 1:9.5 twist barrel. in winchester brass,CCI primers, under nosler 55Gr BTSTips.... and with either one, once i figured out powder charge, and clearance to lands of rifling, both fire in dime to quarter size groups at 100 yds. Best loads come from fired brass, trimmed to length, and neck sized, with light crimp. I don't use compressed loads, loading in 85>90% capacity of brass.

My experience has been to NOT use the max loading. I get better groups w/ about, as noted 85-90%. Some less recoil also.

What do you get for the extra 3+ grains of powder--more recoil, and MAYBE 50-100 fps.
 
#32 ·
Hi burnerSF. It is important to reiterate the advice you received early on: purchase two or three current reloading manuals and peruse the various loads for your caliber.
I have to agree here - only been reloading about 35 years myself but there is really no reason to ask for load data when it is is in the manuals - where most of us started before EVER putting powder in a case! Finding a proper load for your particular rifle takes time at BOTH benches - the reloading and the shooting.
 
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